Results 18 to 34 of 74
12-27-2006, 02:47 AM #18Originally Posted by taneepak
12-27-2006, 03:38 AM #19Originally Posted by F-Man
I can do a few 4-knot methods. The easiest/best way for me is:
1) Same as my 2-knot method (pre-string then pull) up to the point where I do the right tie-off.
2) Instead of transitioning over to the mains from the left side bottom, I pull the last left main (add 3-5lbs.), clamp, cut and tie-off.
3) Now I go to the top and tie-off at A5.
4) I add 10% of the main string tension for the cross (if main 25, then cross 27.5) and pull from the second top cross to minimize stress on the tie-off. You can pull the first cross but I like ot minimize stress at the top.
5) Continue to pull to the last string on the bottom, add 3-4lbs. Tie-off at B6 or B8 (depending how you did the main tie-off).
12-27-2006, 05:28 AM #20
DinkAlot : I would imagine some use this method. I do not. I try to balance and spread the tension evenly as possible (within reason).
In a perfect world, you would alternate every string from the center out. However, I find this unnecessary and time consuming. I do something like this (all tensioning going from the center out, total 22 strings, 11 left, 11 right, I have the bottom tie-off on the right side):
1) Tension the 3 center strings on left side (8 strings left on left side)
2) Then alternate to the right side and tension the 6 center strings (5 strings left on right side)
3) Back to the left side 4 strings (4 strings left on left)
4) Then right side tension 4 strings (1 string left on right for tie-off)
5) Then tension last 4 string on left (0 strings left)
6) Now tension the first two bottom cross strings at the same tension as the mains (25lbs.)
7) Go to 29-30lbs. and tension the last string on the right (tie-off)
8) Adjust back to 27.5lbs. and tension the third cross string from the bottom
9) Keep going until you finish.
Chilefeu : Dinkalot, do you still break 7 racquets in 2 months ???
I suggest you trying my method at least once. I'll try yours too . I guess my english is quite well and therefore, there is no misunderstanding in your explanations
-Tension : your tension, 25 X 27,5 for instance. (ISO racquet)
-Racquet : 22 mains, 23 crosses.
(you can use this method on a 20 mains/22 crosses racquet as well, just need to change tension on 1 or 2 string.)
1) Start on the main, tension 5 strings on left side at 25 lbs.
2) Go on the right side, tension 5 strings at 25 lbs.
3) back on the left side. Tension 3 strings at 23 lbs.
4) back on the right side. Tension 3 strings at 23 lbs.
5) then, go on the left side again, finish the 3 remaining strings at 21 lbs, without adding tension on the last string !!!
6) In a second time, start crosses from the middle is my preference. You can start from the botton too, I think It's less dangerous than starting from the top .
So, from the middle to the top, Tension 5 strings at 27.5.
7) From the middle to the bottom, Tension 5 strings at 27.5.
8) Next, back on top, Tension 3 strings at 25 or 25.5 (according to your preference)
9) Again, back on bottom, Tension 3 strings at 25 or 25.5.
10) To finish with stringing, Tension the 3 remainings strings at the top at 23 or 23.5, and Tension the 4 remainings strings at 23 or 23.5.
Don't add tension on the last top and bottom strings.
This method is recommended by many stringers in France. According to them It's safest ever, and it enables the sweetspot to be more efficient and playable for a longer time.
You'll tell me how it performs ...
12-27-2006, 07:22 AM #21Originally Posted by DinkAlot
12-27-2006, 10:57 AM #22Originally Posted by Chilefeu
No, that 6-7 rackets in 2 months was a record for me.
For the record, I have strung for quite a few players and none of their rackets have broken due to my stringing; and many of these rackets are strung at 27/30lbs. to 30/33lbs. Also, as I've said before, I've mingled with a few pros and they all say my stringing is sound so I'm very confident broken rackets is not due to my own stringing.
12-27-2006, 11:03 AM #23Originally Posted by taneepak
I did a test and won't know for about another 2-4 weeks; strung 4 rackets for a Pro. 2 NS9000-X and 2 NS900-S. All at 28/31lbs. One of each X and S with a 2-knot (my way), and one of each with the current Yonex 4-knot. I marked each racket and asked the Pro to give me feedback, which one(s) play better and why.
Prior, I strung this Pro's rackets with my 2-knot method and she was very happy with the string job.
12-27-2006, 02:45 PM #24Originally Posted by DinkAlot
Well It seems to depend on your own way of playing ... I gave my best advices about stringing Dan, but I cannot coach (I'm joking of course I'm sure your level is 3 times better than mine ...)
As for Eepak and Pete, I'm looking forward to hear them. But Once again, An experienced coach gave me this technic and told me it was the best one. It must be relative then
I'm gonna try, not later than tomorrow night, tensionning my MP-99 at 34 Lbs. I've already made this test but It seems to be inconsistent since I didn't use enough clamps. I neither break my racquet, nor the string. (I just restrung because 24 Lbs is fine for me - going higher is too painful for my shoulders)
I'll let you know the results ...
P.S. : I had time to modify my order. I ordered 4 Sets MP Orange instead of white as you adviced me. Hope it will perform well.
Thank you for your help
12-27-2006, 03:32 PM #25
Ah, just forgot to mention that there is no racquet distortion when adding 2 Lbs on the crosses with my technic, whatever the string machine is.
I strung on another machine that was not mine, It was only a 4 support-one, and I had distortion since I didn't add these 2 Lbs ...
I'm now waiting for your replies, what do you think about this stringing technic ???
12-27-2006, 05:16 PM #26Originally Posted by Chilefeu
Why? The key to stringing is balancing the tension throughout the frame. The middle main to the edge have significant differences in string length. Pulling them at the same constant tension will yield different stress patterns. Your method minimizes this.
I'm going to string a racket with your method right now.
Be back in about 15 minutes...
12-27-2006, 05:18 PM #27
Chilefu: also, I was trying to come up with some kind of method similar to this...when I had more time to talk to a few physics experts but I think you just solved my problem. Thanks!
12-27-2006, 05:58 PM #28
Chilefu: strung my original Cab 20 Tour SP with your method and here are my observations:
+It was easy to do. No problems at all.
+The original shape of the racket is retained
+Sweet spot appear greatly increased after some informal hitting
+Significantly less stress and the corners.
I'll play with it tonight and tell you how it goes, thanks!
12-27-2006, 06:20 PM #29
12-27-2006, 06:37 PM #30
Chilefeu and DinkAlot:
What you guys have shared with the rest of us on this forum is very interesting and useful. Thank you very much. There is however, another question that I would like to ask.
If you guys have strung any of the Yonex Nanospeed series rackets before, you'll know that towards the end at either sides of the mains, the string loops back in a different way than the standard traditional way. Unfortunately I am not sure how to explain with letters and numbers.
Point is, what are the benefits of doing this? Relevance and implications? I have noticed a number of stringers using this pattern for ALL rackets not just that of the Nanospeed series. Does anyone know?
12-27-2006, 06:39 PM #31
Ahhhh, this was discussed way back also. Taneepak is the best person to explain the Yonex stringing method.
Originally Posted by F-Man
12-27-2006, 06:42 PM #32Originally Posted by F-Man
12-27-2006, 06:43 PM #33Originally Posted by Pete LSD
I started reading that thread on many occasions but never got the chance to finish it. As I am not completely familiar with the proportional stringing method, would you be so kind as to tell me how the method described by Chilefeu is a variation?
12-27-2006, 06:46 PM #34Originally Posted by LazyBuddy
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