# Thread: Where to start tensioning? (Variations)

1. I was initially obsessed with proportional string jobs a few years back. Now, I really don't give a dime .

2. Chilefeu:

Will the method you described work with only two knots or does it work only for four?

3. I was initailly obsessed with the number of knots. Now I just don't care and have anything up to 10+ knots on my own rackets. Of course when I string for others, they get the conservative 2 knots.

4. Originally Posted by F-Man
Chilefeu:

Will the method you described work with only two knots or does it work only for four?
Yes, it will work on 2-knots, but you may have to compromise a little at the transition from the mains to the cross for the first and possibly also the second cross strings-these first and second cross strings should have a similar tension to the last main string's tension before you cross over to the crosses to ensure a seemless transfer from mains to crosses.

5. Originally Posted by F-Man
Chilefeu:

Will the method you described work with only two knots or does it work only for four?
Yes, it will work on 2-knots, but you may have to compromise a little at the transition from the mains to the cross for the first and possibly also the second cross strings-these first and second cross strings should have a similar tension to the last main string's tension before you cross over to the crosses to ensure a seemless transfer from mains to crosses.

6. Originally Posted by taneepak
Yes, it will work on 2-knots, but you may have to compromise a little at the transition from the mains to the cross for the first and possibly also the second cross strings-these first and second cross strings should have a similar tension to the last main string's tension before you cross over to the crosses to ensure a seemless transfer from mains to crosses.
With reference to Chilefeu's method. For both the mains and cross, there are three different tensions. To clarify, supposing the tension is 28 x 30. For mains, it would be 28, 26 and 24 and for the cross 30, 28, 26.

For the two knot method, should one the switch to 26 for the first and second cross strings as opposed to sticking to 24, which is the tension of the final two main strings?

7. I just got back from training for 5.5 hours! Yes, from 1:00am to 6:30am, just to give you an update on all of this stringing stuff. OK, not really, I needed to work on my reverse drop and fast drop.

Will post something long and detailed when I wake up in a few hours...

...results will be a bit surprising...including...

...2 out of 2 pros prefer my 2-knot method over the current Yonex 4-knot!

Stay tuned.

8. Originally Posted by F-Man
With reference to Chilefeu's method. For both the mains and cross, there are three different tensions. To clarify, supposing the tension is 28 x 30. For mains, it would be 28, 26 and 24 and for the cross 30, 28, 26.

For the two knot method, should one the switch to 26 for the first and second cross strings as opposed to sticking to 24, which is the tension of the final two main strings?
I donno ... I never tried my method with 2 knots.

That being said, if This method appears to be good, then It could worth trying it

9. Originally Posted by DinkAlot

...2 out of 2 pros prefer my 2-knot method over the current Yonex 4-knot!

Stay tuned.
u sure u didn't flex yr muscles in front of those 2 pro b4 u ask?

10. Originally Posted by chessymonkey
u sure u didn't flex yr muscles in front of those 2 pro b4 u ask?
Nope, I'm not biased at all. Whatever is, I let it be.

11. Originally Posted by F-Man
With reference to Chilefeu's method. For both the mains and cross, there are three different tensions. To clarify, supposing the tension is 28 x 30. For mains, it would be 28, 26 and 24 and for the cross 30, 28, 26.

For the two knot method, should one the switch to 26 for the first and second cross strings as opposed to sticking to 24, which is the tension of the final two main strings?
The switch-over is 24lbs, at least for the first cross string, so that you don't change the last main string tension. You may or may not wish to use 24lbs (or increase it to 25lbs) for the second cross, although it would be better, to protect the tension pattern integrity of the mains.

12. GOOd idea Eepak I'll try that for the next racquet I have to string.

13. Originally Posted by taneepak
The switch-over is 24lbs, at least for the first cross string, so that you don't change the last main string tension. You may or may not wish to use 24lbs (or increase it to 25lbs) for the second cross, although it would be better, to protect the tension pattern integrity of the mains.
So it then becomes 24 - 26 - 28 - 30 - 28 - 26 - 24 for the cross stringing with tension 28x30?

14. Taneepak:

You are recommending sticking to the same tension for the first two cross strings as the one transferred from the mains. There are now only 21 cross strings left. With reference to the two knot method, how should one continue to string the racket using the proportional method?

15. Everyone has their own stringing preferences. So read the posts for ideas and try it out yourself. What works for one stringer may not work for you. Example, Yonex recommand 4 knots method with 2lb+ (or 10%+) on the main. It is not the best method for Sir DinkALot. Read the post with open mind and experiment with cautions and at risk of your own racquet. PLEASE!

SUMMARY: if you don't want to read all the detail

Thanks for sharing Chilefu!

Each string job has it's merits:

+Progressive Tension (PT): good for minimizing stress on your racket, if you like a soft feel (protects sensitive arms) and maximizing the sweetspot and power.
-Lacks control, harder to string, feel is not precise.

+Yonex Standard 4-Knot (Y4K): good all-around performance but most importantly, Yonex compliant.
-Relatively smaller sweetspot and slightly lesser feel than P2K.

+Panda 2-Knot (P2K): superior for all-around performance and stringing ease.
-Not Yonex compliant. At least not yet.

...after testing and comparing the Progressive Tension to my Panda 2-knot and Yonex standard 4-knot for almost a week now, I have come to the conclusion I prefer my P2K.

I feel the PT is a good technique for stringing but not for me. The initial couple of hours of play after you string the racket with PT is good. But as the string tension starts to even out, the tension gets too low and shots that are supposed to be crisp become soft. Now I'm sure one can adapt to this feel but again, it's not for me. I prefer a crisp, tighter tension feel.

With that said some relative ratings from 1 to 10, 5 being average, 7 being good, 10 being best.

Ease of stringing:
P2K: 10.0
Y4K: 7.0
PT: 4.0

Holding Tension:
Y4K: 10.0
P2K: 9.0
PT: 4.0

Racket Safety During Stringing:
PT: 10.0
P2K: 8.5
Y4K: 8.0

Feel:
P2K: 10.0
Y4K: 8.5
PT: 4.0 (overall), initially 10.0, after 3 hours of play drops and keeps dropping

Power:
PT: 10.0
P2K: 9.0
Y4K: 8.5

Sweetspot:
PT: 10.0
P2K: 8.5
Y4K: 8.0

Control:
P2K: 10.0
Y4K: 9.0
PT: 5.0

Durability:
PT: 10.0
P2K: 7.0
Y4K: 6.5

Originally Posted by DinkAlot
I just got back from training for 5.5 hours! Yes, from 1:00am to 6:30am, just to give you an update on all of this stringing stuff. OK, not really, I needed to work on my reverse drop and fast drop.

Will post something long and detailed when I wake up in a few hours...

...results will be a bit surprising...including...

...2 out of 2 pros prefer my 2-knot method over the current Yonex 4-knot!

Stay tuned.

17. It's proportional string jobs, not progressive . . .

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