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  1. #1
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    Question Several questions about stringing

    Hi, this is my first post here, so let me just give a short insight what forces me to ask newbie-questions

    Im from germany (Hannover), 25y old. Playing badminton for ~13y. My main racket is a AT800 OF. unfortunately the string BG 65 snapped last week. I did not bring it to a stringer because of two reasons: 1) the local stringer does a bad job 2) i ordered a stringing machine (crank, 6 point). So the challange for me is to string my AT 800 OF with NBG-95ch in perfect shape until sunday morning

    my questions are:

    1) why do you place the knots on the inner side of the frame and not on the outside? I rarely see knots on the outside. While the stringing instructions from yonex for my AT8°° indicate the knots on the outside In my understanding, placing the knots on the outside is much better because the knots will not damage the grommets.

    2) on sirdinkalot´s video (can be seen on google.video) the pre-stringing looks like he is doing a 2 knot-stringing while he says he does 4 knots?
    On that video i do not see where sirdink places his knots due to the low res

    Besides the AT8°° i have 2 other spare rackets (crappy ones) i already made it to pre string one of them as 4kn (4-knot) version.

    3) if i want to do a 4kn job, do i cut the 10m string somewhere or do i just pre-string as i would a 2kn job, but after tightening the mains, cut the string and make a knot? (i believe that is what sirdink did)?

    My goal is to have at leats my AT8°° strung at 10,5-11,5kg with NBG95. So far i made it to prestraing half of the mains. Now i wonder if i have to pull all remainging ~8m of string through every grommet, or do i cut off ~5m?

    @Search-button-notifier: i did a search but i could not find a satisfying awnser yet

    regards, mathi
    Last edited by Heftiforex; 02-15-2007 at 07:03 AM.

  2. #2
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    Welcome! Let me try to answer several questions to the best I can:

    1. The knots have to be inside. I don't think you can make a knot to be outside of the frame, once everything is tensioned. Also, knots outside the frame can be easily damaged if you tend to use racket to pick up shuttles.

    2. For 4 knots (2 pieces) string method, I usually use about 17-17.5 ft for main, and the rest for cross. However, not sure if that's enough for pre-string. As I don't do pre-string myself.

    3. If this is the 1st time you doing string, my suggestion is NEVER use expensive racket and strings on the 1st several tries. It's very possible you make a mistake here and there (due to lackness of experience), which result into waste of $ or even damage the expensive racket. Try to use some cheap string and crappy rackets for several demo runs with LOW tension 1st. After several runs, you should get a much better understanding and feeling for this process. By then, you can work on the real job.

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    Ok for that knot-issue i will try my best to place the knots inside the frame

    and what about the rest? especially about the pre-string cutting-problem.

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    I just did my armortec 800 yesterday. I think the knots are inside. l made 18 feet for the main and 15 feet for the cross; it is just fine.

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    I watched Dan´s (i think sirdink is called Dan here ) pre-stringing video like 10 times now. i figured out that he pulls the entire string through all the grommets. that is what i was asking for in one question.

    but i still did not figure out what to do, when all mains are tightened and it comes to make the knot and then tighten the crosses??

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heftiforex
    but i still did not figure out what to do, when all mains are tightened and it comes to make the knot and then tighten the crosses??
    For 2-piece (4 knot), you cut the long piece of string at a point near to the racquet, leaving enough to tie off the main.
    Then you should be left with the crosses all pre-strung with one tail coming from the head and the other from the throat. You can now choose to tension the crosses top-to-bottom, or bottom-to-top.
    You can start the crosses wither with a starting knot or by using a starting clamp.


    For 1-piece (2 knot), you tie off the short side main, but continue tensioning the crosses from bottom-to-top.

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    Ah ok, that explains, thank you. do you usually cut the string after prestringing or after tightening the mains?

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    I don't do it exactly that way, but if it were me, I might wait until after the mains were tensioned, as when you tension you will be taking up the slack, so there will be more string outside the frame after you finish tensioning the mains.

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    I c.

    What i have done now, i was prestringing both racktes. Now both rackets are prestrung, the machine still did not arrive yet

    I hope it arrives tomorrow. Maybe i will take some photos of the first stringing so you can witness my imperfectnes

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    Be careful not to prestring too many crosses with the one-string method. You'll find that after tensioning a few crosses that the strings starts to coil awkwardly and can run the risk of kinking the string thus damaging the outer core. There are pros and cons to both stringing methods, 1pce and 2pce. I do both. Its pays to check the racquet first as if it was strung previously with one pce stringing that if you use 2 pce stringing you may find it awkward to tie off the bottom cross as the grommet wasn't previously shared and may be too small. You'll need an awl to help feed the string through or widen the hole before stringing. From memory the mains tie off at 7 and the crosses start at 8 or 9 depending on the racquet make. Some Browning racquets have very tight grommets in the first 14 mains.

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    The knot placement issue is no problem. I use the stringing instructions yenox sent me.

    BTW this may be of interst; i could find a shop in germany which sells 200m reels of NBG 95 (german version) for as low as 89€, that means 4,5€/per stringjob. which is quite inexpensive imho.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Heftiforex

    2) on sirdinkalot´s video (can be seen on google.video) the pre-stringing looks like he is doing a 2 knot-stringing while he says he does 4 knots?
    On that video i do not see where sirdink places his knots due to the low res
    The way I pre-string the racket, you can do either a 2-knot or 4-knot.

    To do a 4-knot, you tie-off both mains then starting from the top, you do the crosses and finish at the bottom.

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    If you use only flying clamps pre-stringing is more prone to some tension loss. This is true even when using two flying clamps for each pull. The reason is that the cross strings get in the way when you string the mains, to the extent that the flying clamps are not able to sit deep into the main string that is being pulled. Stringing the crosses is not as bad because of assistance through resistance and friction from the tensioned mains.

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    Today the crank-machine arrived (unfortunately 2 days too late) however, i started to tension the oldest racket. I did a 2p stringing with ~8kg. I figured out that my 8kg feel much more like 10kg of the local shop´s stringer
    since this is an old cheap racket, it has the uncomfortable string-setup at 10 and 2 o´clock, so to improve it, i skipped the last but one hole, similar to the AT 800 setup. I wonder if this will prove to be better.

    Additionally, i think i lost 0,5-1kg tention on the last knot, because i could not tighten it that well.

    the second racket is my main spare racket. After tensioning the mains with 13,5 kg and 80% of the crosses @14kg, i figured out that the frame collapsed on the inner side at 7 o´clock All i could do was to un-string the broken racket and also take most of the grommets. since i did not finish the crosses, i could retrieve the entire cross string. Can i use this string for another racket, or is the string "tainted" right now? The string does not seem to be damaged.

    any way, later i figured out that i did a bad pr-stringing. all cross strings on one side have been shifted by 1 hole so all crosses have not been horizontal but angled.

    the third racket was my AT800 OF. Because of the bad expirience in the second run, the value of the racket and the string (NBG 95), i felt quite a preasure to do a good job, or at least not damage the racket or the string. However i strung this racket @12,5kg/11kg successfully, well at least nothing broke yet.

    the string combined with the tension of 12kg feels as hard as a pure steel stringed on the racket. i hope the string will not snap after 15mins of warm up tomorrow....

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    You should calibrate the machine before any usage. Some of the settings might be way off, as you described for your 1st racket. The 2nd racket broke, might be a combination of factors of wrong string pattern and the in-accurate tension. Therefore, better re-calibrate your machine before the next try.

    That's the reason I said before, never use expensive rackets and strings for the 1st several tries. It's a waste of money and significant risk to the rackets.

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    I undertsand that, but i did not have much of a choice. since i only have 3 rackets.

    the tension calibrator i bouhgt with the machine shows the same values as the machine so i think the machine is more or less precise.
    Last edited by Heftiforex; 02-20-2007 at 04:31 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Heftiforex
    I undertsand that, but i did not have much of a choice. since i only have 3 rackets.
    Then, repeat the practices on the cheapest one. When I brought my machine, I bought a cheap $10 metal racket as well. I demo on the cheap racket for like 10 times (using very cheap strings), before moving on to the real deal.

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