02-20-2007, 05:53 PM #18
I played with my AT800 OF and the NBG 95 CH @~10kg today. The "best" string i played before was BG 65 @ 12kg.
I have to say that the power and repulsion is so great, it was unbelievable. It improved my playing skill very much. and strongly noticable. :-D it takes less power to clear, less power to drive and taking the speed off the shuttle while dropping it short behind the net is so much easier right now.
im really happy now.
02-20-2007, 10:43 PM #19
Great job!Originally Posted by Heftiforex
02-21-2007, 04:22 AM #20
I learned fro mthe best (BC)
02-22-2007, 08:37 AM #21
Another question, which came up today. righat after prestringing, Dan started tensioning the mid mains. In my newbish understanding, i think it is better to start tensioning the mains at a side, and make the first knot before tensioing, that way the knot is thightend by the tension and there is no tension loss due to the knot.
What do you think?
02-22-2007, 11:21 AM #22
It might cause racquet distortion.
02-22-2007, 03:00 PM #23Originally Posted by silentheart
02-23-2007, 06:02 AM #24
mhm ok that is a good point. And what about the mains? Dan is not starting the mains from the mid in his video. wont the crosses distord the frame es well?
02-23-2007, 06:27 AM #25Originally Posted by Heftiforex
I always start stringing the mains from the middle of the racket.
02-23-2007, 06:34 AM #26Originally Posted by DinkAlot
02-23-2007, 06:45 AM #27Originally Posted by Heftiforex
On a two-piece string job: I go top to bottom.
02-23-2007, 06:46 AM #28Originally Posted by Heftiforex
so rules for the mains do not necessarily automatically apply to the crosses
02-23-2007, 06:50 AM #29
Obviously there is a skill to be learnt in tensioning a racquet, however, you can only go as fast as the machine will let you. The skill and technique in weaving the crosses would be the greatest time saver. In two piece stringing after tying off the mains, for instance, you could start the prestringing of the crosses in the middle. Ie. if the crosses begin at 8, you could start say at 17, 18,or 19. In this way you do not have to pull all 5mtrs through each time you weave. (Find the middle of the string and begin the weave in the middle of the crosses, thus only having to pull half the length each time, making sure you have enough left over at 8 to be able to tension and tie off, or tie off with a starting knot leaving enough to tension.
Some people start tensioning the crosses at the top, some people begin at the bottom. I've got into the habit of starting at the bottom.
I've done around 90 rackets so far, so not an expert by any means.
I would be interested to hear how many start tensioning the crosses at the top.
02-23-2007, 06:54 AM #30Originally Posted by coachgary
02-23-2007, 06:56 AM #31
I always pre-string a racket.
02-23-2007, 06:59 AM #32
for rackets with small grommets (like yonex MP's or AT150-700's) I like to start at the top, why?
when you clamp of the 7th main the top part is still loose (no tension on it). at that point put in the first cross (weave like normal,but the grommet has enough space).
pull through main #8, and cross #2..tension main8. same for 9, 10 and 11...
at the end. you'll have all mains tensioned, and all crosses at the shared grommets weaved (no awl, toughtfloss, anything)..
NOTE: I don't tension the crosses, just weave 'em..
02-23-2007, 08:19 PM #33
Hey, that sounds like new technique for the special leisurely activity . What about from the middle up and down? Slow and fast?
Originally Posted by DinkAlot
03-05-2007, 07:05 PM #34
today i made my first 2knot stringjob. this is not a sensation at all but it was an aluminium frame :-) it was like two times higher then my armortec with huge grommets and big cracks, there was like 20% of all paint off. :-D and it even has a scar. looks like the woman (the owner) used it to play golf or so :-P however this is just the colateral story.
the main point is, that while strining the crosses, the frame started to lift off the 4 side supports. i also had to adjust the top/bottom support. i expirienced the same with other rackets. but not that strong.
so here is my question: do you have to readjust the supports of the stringing machine while stringing? Or do i do something wrong?
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