Klipper M140 Stringing Instruction

**Frosty** · 08-04-2011, 07:56 PM

Thanks SH !

I found out there are a couple of problems with using load spreaders on this machine .

First, by adding a load spreader at the top of the frame, it makes it impossible to do a double pull and clamp the first two cross strings ( assuming the method of the starting cross knot at the 6th top grommet is used ) since the first cross string will be covered/hidden by the holder ( plates ) .

Secondly, since the frame mass which is secured by the holders is reduced ( result of the racket protruding out more because of the load spreader ), it does not seem to be held as securely as I would like, especially when I am doing the crosses .

So in the end, I went back to not using any load spreaders. Just clipped the protruding part of the four center main grommets and slided a small piece of hard plastic between the frame and bolt .

**LazyBuddy** · 08-06-2011, 12:16 AM

I believe the cushion pad already serve the purpose as the spreader (if you mount the frame correctly against the black portion, and secure the 2 pieces of cushion together tight enough). You should NEVER mount the frame directly against the support (bolt). It will either damage (scratch) the frame, and/or result in below-average string job (usually narrower frame).

**Frosty** · 08-06-2011, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by LazyBuddy

I believe the cushion pad already serve the purpose as the spreader (if you mount the frame correctly against the black portion, and secure the 2 pieces of cushion together tight enough). You should NEVER mount the frame directly against the support (bolt). It will either damage (scratch) the frame, and/or result in below-average string job (usually narrower frame).

Thanks !
I peeled off a few thin layers off the cushion and now the frame fits snugly between the two plates .

Another thing, has anyone had their M140's tension accuracy off by some margin, say around 5lbs ? Asking because I just tested the tension using a gauge ( got from mybadmintonstore ) and it seems like mine is off by ~ 5lbs less . When did I my test, 25lbs on the tension head would show 20lbs according to the gauge .Will try to source for another gauge ( maybe one used for fishing ? ) to determine .

Here's how I used the gauge, just in case I was wrong .
Thread a string at one end of the gauge and secured it with a clamp, with the clamp against the outside of the mount plate . Tie another string at the other end and tension away .

**LazyBuddy** · 08-06-2011, 09:43 PM

Unless your tension weight is badly damaged, it should never off by that much. When you test, make sure the gauge is calibrated (by measure 1 or 2 L of water or so). Then make sure whatever your setup is, the pulling is horizontally, but not with a significant angle.

**Frosty** · 08-06-2011, 11:19 PM

Originally Posted by LazyBuddy

Unless your tension weight is badly damaged, it should never off by that much. When you test, make sure the gauge is calibrated (by measure 1 or 2 L of water or so). Then make sure whatever your setup is, the pulling is horizontally, but not with a significant angle.

Did a couple more tests. The gauge was accurate, tested with a 10KG dumbbell plate.

Just found out the problem was with me misreading the tension scale decal on the rod. The unit of the "25" I used , at least according to the decal, during my initial tension tests were actually in "kg" instead of "lbs", which was not the case after tests with the gauge .

Which means now I have to always add ~ 5lbs on top of the tension if I want to follow the tension scale on the decal and I should be refering to the one which states the unit as "kg". This should produce the tension I want.

Anyone else had this problem ?

**LazyBuddy** · 08-20-2011, 09:18 PM

I think I know your problem after I took a look at my machine, and let me try to explain to the best I can. Once the leveler is set up (about 50' or so), you should read the scale against the lower right side, which have a big black arrow pointing to the scales. If you are reading the upper left side, or when you setup the machine, you mount the weight in the opposite way, then your reading will surely off by a few lbs.

**mg27** · 12-10-2011, 04:14 AM

Has anyone had success in pre-weaving via 2-piece stringing with the KM? I think SH said that it isn't possible due to the design of the KM. But I just wanted to know for sure.

**Frosty** · 01-02-2012, 06:55 PM

Just wondering, how long do you guys normally leave the tension bar to "settle" or "sit" while tensioning each string?
A)clamp and release the tension bar immediately after the tension bar stops dropping.
OR
B)continue to let it sit there for extra seconds before clamping and release the tension?

**silentheart** · 01-05-2012, 11:44 AM

Originally Posted by mg27

Has anyone had success in pre-weaving via 2-piece stringing with the KM? I think SH said that it isn't possible due to the design of the KM. But I just wanted to know for sure.

Not with 1 set of string and not with center out. If you can, you are doing something wrong.

**silentheart** · 01-05-2012, 11:47 AM

Originally Posted by Frosty

Just wondering, how long do you guys normally leave the tension bar to "settle" or "sit" while tensioning each string?
A)clamp and release the tension bar immediately after the tension bar stops dropping.
OR
B)continue to let it sit there for extra seconds before clamping and release the tension?

It is more like B) in your option. What I usually do is to leave the tension bar sit while I weave the next string. I will suggest you do this once you can weave the cross in less than 30 sec. Do the same for the main. but it is OK since it will usually take 10~15 sec in normal setting.

**Frosty** · 01-05-2012, 06:47 PM

Originally Posted by silentheart

It is more like B) in your option. What I usually do is to leave the tension bar sit while I weave the next string. I will suggest you do this once you can weave the cross in less than 30 sec. Do the same for the main. but it is OK since it will usually take 10~15 sec in normal setting.

Thanks for the input.
The reason for asking was because I have been testing the different outcome caused by letting the tension sit between short period ( less than 30 seconds ) and longer period ( 45 to 60 seconds ). On court testing favours the string job with shorter tension period ( feels livelier. Not too vague, I hope ), at least for me.

Wondering if theres such a thing as leaving the string tensioned for too long?

**LazyBuddy** · 01-14-2012, 11:57 PM

Personally, I think leave it for 30 sec or more is an overkill. I usually do no more than 10 to 15 sec for most of the tension, but do go for 20 or so for the last pieces.

***kwun*** · 02-17-2012, 07:54 PM

here is silentheart's Klippermate tutorial!

sorry for taking so long to upload this. i just figure out how to get my youtube account to accept >15mins videos...

**silentheart** · 02-18-2012, 08:16 AM

Thank you Kwun for your hard work.

**silentheart** · 03-01-2012, 04:04 PM

Just an update on M140. Last night, I had 2 exactly same racquets (NS500) with BG65 I strung up for sale. I strung 1 with M140 and 1 with Baiardo and both are at 22x24.2lb. Both 2 pieces throat up.
Here is the setting on Baiardo
5% pre stretch
head speed 95%
fixed clamps
Here is the M140 setting
pre stretch on door knob by hand for 15 sec.
tension bar is <5 degree from level.
YY fly clamps
Here is what I found.
1) M140 final tension from the string tone sounds about >1 lb and <2 lb lower than than Baiardo. My wife and I can clearly hear the difference.
2) Both racquet head comes off the same. No difference to out inspection.
3) Baiardo=25 min vs M140=22 min from mounting to racquet off the machine.
4) M140 has ext ~10 cm string left over than Bairado.
I am guessing the pre-stretch on Baiardo and fix clamps makes the final string bed tighter.
Will give you my conclusion on playability tomorrow.

***kwun*** · 03-01-2012, 04:39 PM

you strung a racket in 22mins with the M140? *respect*...

**silentheart** · 03-02-2012, 12:50 PM

OK here is my report on M140 vs Baiardo.

I had a chance to mess around with the 2 identical NS500 strung by the same person (me). Both machine has beed calibrated correctly to produce same tension pull given the tension bar on the M140 is perfectly leveled. I have both racquet in hands and switch every 5~10 shot while shuttle is in flight.

On clear. The shot comes out further about 5~10 cm consistantly for Baiardo. Sound crispier and feel easier to deliver the shot. Both racquet produce consistant shot and controlI have no problem return the shuttle to where I like it to go. On the clear from my forhand corner box (I am right handed) straight to the other side corner box, I need to hit a little harder with the M140.

On net drop. The ting sounds better on the Baiardo string bed and feel it bounce a little higher. Control is much better with Baiardo after 5 min of getting use to both racquet.

On the back court drop. This is where the biggest difference come from. Baiardo control is so much better and much tighter to the net.

On Smash. Both feel the same power while Baraido produce better angle.

Over all, I will say M140 is about 8.5/10 on the play. For the price I paid for M140 vs Baiardo, I will say it is one good value machine.