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  1. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3 View Post
    sry i meant if i can prestring the whole racquet then tension all at once. like what *not sure if its dinkalot's* google video did. altho its 2 peice stringing method =T
    Yes, I don't do it because I have a little more time than Sir DinkALot the Sick Panda. However, My suggestion is to have enough slack on the string so you can pre-weave the main and enough for the tensioning pull.

  2. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentheart View Post
    Yes, I don't do it because I have a little more time than Sir DinkALot the Sick Panda. However, My suggestion is to have enough slack on the string so you can pre-weave the main and enough for the tensioning pull.
    SilentHeart, if i were to prestring/preweave like sirdinkalot and leave slack how would i go about tensioning the mains?

  3. #88
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    looks great, thank you

  4. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3 View Post
    SilentHeart, if i were to prestring/preweave like sirdinkalot and leave slack how would i go about tensioning the mains?
    Sorry for the late reply. Are you talking about pre-weave the entire racquet and tensioning with Kilppermate M140? If that is your question, then my suggestion is to measure 19ft for main and then you can pre weave the entire main. I will see if I can get some pictures up for you later this week.

  5. #90
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    Great instruction to new one like me.
    I still a little bit not sure about the part of pull on main 10 and 11 together. Could you explain?
    Thanks!

  6. #91
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    You can not pull 11 then clamp 9 and 11 then pull the 10 while clamp is still on 9 and 11.

  7. #92
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    So you mean skip the pull on 11 and only pull on 10. , which also pass/put the tension on 11 through this pull effort. I was thinking how to pull 11 and 10 two strings together on one pull.

    Thanks!

    By the way, has anyone had experience with the EAGNAS Hawk 15? I'm thinking to start to learn the string with a simple 2 point weight drop. Don't know what the difference is between KM140 and the Hawk 15, they look so similar.

  8. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich_r View Post
    So you mean skip the pull on 11 and only pull on 10. , which also pass/put the tension on 11 through this pull effort. I was thinking how to pull 11 and 10 two strings together on one pull.

    Thanks!

    By the way, has anyone had experience with the EAGNAS Hawk 15? I'm thinking to start to learn the string with a simple 2 point weight drop. Don't know what the difference is between KM140 and the Hawk 15, they look so similar.
    Hi Richie Rich,

    Yes, that is what I mean. Also, as a suggestion, you can add 1 lb or 2 on the pull on 10 to make up some of teh tension loss on 11 and tie off.
    I actually would recommand M140 over Hawk 15 because of the mounting mech. Even I know both owners and both owners know each other too...

  9. #94
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    Thank you so much for the information. I may try the M14 (I heard some friend said he puts an order on Hawk 15 and three weeks passed he did not get reply about the status even if he sent email to ask. Maybe they are out of stock).

    One more question, since the racket shape differs from brand, so the string machine's two mount posts on the machine's bottom frame are adjustable. Should they be loosely mounted so that the racket shape would adjust itself with string tension, or they two have to be tighten?
    Thanks again!

  10. #95
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    Hi Rich,

    If you saw my posts and pictures in the beginning, I mention you need to push the 2 posts in to make sure it does not move when you mount your racquet. I assume people know they need to tighten the 2 posts and make sure they do not move.

    You will see if you apply 10% higher on the cross, the head shape will be the same or very close to unstrung racquet.

    Let me know if you still have any question.

  11. #96
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    A fellow BFer asked me if his/her 2-point machine can apply 30 + lbs of tension to torture subjects. Here are general points of what to do. If there are anything missing or wrong, please correct me. Thanks!

    By the way, the fellow's machine is does not have fixed clamps if I remember correctly .

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    With your current machine, you can still string up to 25 lbs without too much issues.

    If you wish to go up to 32 lbs main X 35 lbs cross (as an example) and two pieces (four knots), please stablize the frame first by having temporarily the cross strung in the middle. I will also assume the frame survives after finishing the main strings.
    1. The techniques involved is more complicated. You will need two starting clamps, four extra Yonex badminton flying clamps, an adjustable (Eagnas?) badminton flying clamp and an extra piece of string.
    2. You start in the middle by clamping one side of the cross string with the starting clamp and apply tension. Apply adjustable flying clamp. Tension the next available cross string. Apply Yonex flying clamp. Remove starting clamp.
    3. Then you string the cross up and down alternatively until you reach the single pass grommet right before the shared grommet. Now, apply starting clamps.
    4. The frame is now stable cross wise. You can starting the cross string from the top!
    5. When you reach the the single grommet, release two cross strings at a time. It's a hassle.
    For customization, there are kits out there. A very special Master has made wooden device for 2-point machines. He has tested the contraption up to 33 lbs. There are cross bars out in the market. Or you can make your own.

  12. #97
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    WOW! Although I will not try this myself. I can see this as a very workable solution for high tension stringing.

    Bravo!

  13. #98
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    I tried this method with the six-point Gamma machine. It's just so much work. The strung frame resembles the the unstrung frame: you do not see top narrow and bottom bulge (starting the cross from top).

    Ohhh, you have seem an example of this method in LA last year .

    Quote Originally Posted by silentheart View Post
    WOW! Although I will not try this myself. I can see this as a very workable solution for high tension stringing.

    Bravo!

  14. #99
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  15. #100
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    GrandMaster Pete truly is GrandMaster Pete!!!
    Nice work!!!

    I can totally see how impatient and frustrated I would get if I ever even attempted it hahaha.

  16. #101
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    I personally believe fix clamp deliver better result then fly clamp while staring a string job.
    I am posting some pictures of staring method without using starting pin because some one ask me to help cutting down their stringing time. Here it is.
    #1 For M140, you can only pre-weave mains. The reason is the tension head is a little too far from the racquet frame.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  17. #102
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    #2 Release one of the string that looped over the handle and pull the string through the top grommet.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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