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  1. #69
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    I have some questions after stringing my racket. I was taught the exact some way as how you strung your racket in this guide, but with less details. My coach told me to discover my own style.

    Some of the problems I had were:
    Where to end the mains and crosses
    How to end the main and crosses
    What knot to use
    And how to make a strong starting now
    Where to start for the crosses

    I was strining a cheap oval racket, and I had no idea where to start for the cross and where to end for the mains. Also, I was told to skip a hole at the end of the mains when you alternate outwards. Why is this?

    Thanks

  2. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray_mond View Post
    I have some questions after stringing my racket. I was taught the exact some way as how you strung your racket in this guide, but with less details. My coach told me to discover my own style.

    Some of the problems I had were:
    Where to end the mains and crosses
    How to end the main and crosses
    What knot to use
    And how to make a strong starting now
    Where to start for the crosses

    I was strining a cheap oval racket, and I had no idea where to start for the cross and where to end for the mains. Also, I was told to skip a hole at the end of the mains when you alternate outwards. Why is this?

    Thanks
    1) according to Yonex string chart now with 2 piece method, main-> start from center and tide off at throat 8 grommet (B8). cross->tide starting knot at throat 6 grommet(B6). start from throat 9 grommet(B9). last main is top 7 (A7). Tide off at top 5 grommet (A5)
    2) tie double hitch knot is fine to end main and cross
    3) tie double hitch knot is fine to end main and cross
    4) look at instruction 1) also search on starting knot.

    5) look up Yonex string pattern. go to www.yonexusa.com you will find the official yonex stringing pattern. why skip b11? it is to reduce stress.

  3. #71
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    ah okay thanks SH.. a couple more questions after stringing some more questions.. it was on a stringway drop weight machine.. the one where you just put the string in and the machine automatically pulls.. (the bar doesnt have the tension indicators on it)..

    i noticed that the klipper doesnt have any fixed clamps, is this why you have the starting pin?

    another problem i had was that my stringing tutor told me i had slightly warped my ti 10, when i worked from the middle out, alternating from each side. so basically i started in the middle, and tensioned a main on each side to maintain balance. is this correct? i've heard that if i complete one side first, that the racket will warp for sure?

    also, if i decide to skip the 2nd last bottom or top cross, how does this work? will I still have 22 cross?

    and i also have a problem with tying off the knots, it seems like i have quite a bit of tension loss. i dont like the idea of jamming the awl into the grommet before tying, or tension 2 extra pounds, or hand pulling on the knot before tying. what should i do to prevent tension loss, or is that not possible?

    thanks

  4. #72
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    sorry for double post, but i was using a stringway ml-100. how does the pull system vary from this machine to the klipper? i've used other drop weight machines that have the rectangular thing to pull

  5. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray_mond View Post
    ah okay thanks SH.. a couple more questions after stringing some more questions.. it was on a stringway drop weight machine.. the one where you just put the string in and the machine automatically pulls.. (the bar doesnt have the tension indicators on it)..

    i noticed that the klipper doesnt have any fixed clamps, is this why you have the starting pin?

    another problem i had was that my stringing tutor told me i had slightly warped my ti 10, when i worked from the middle out, alternating from each side. so basically i started in the middle, and tensioned a main on each side to maintain balance. is this correct? i've heard that if i complete one side first, that the racket will warp for sure?

    also, if i decide to skip the 2nd last bottom or top cross, how does this work? will I still have 22 cross?

    and i also have a problem with tying off the knots, it seems like i have quite a bit of tension loss. i dont like the idea of jamming the awl into the grommet before tying, or tension 2 extra pounds, or hand pulling on the knot before tying. what should i do to prevent tension loss, or is that not possible?

    thanks
    1) Yes and no. Klipper M140 do not have fix clamp. That is why they use starting pin method. However, even if you have fix clamp, starting pin method is better than starting clamp method IMHO.
    2) Yes, if you use 2 pt mounting machine, make sure you alt between mains. I usually string 2 mains on right then 2 mains on left. People also use 1 main right, 2 mains left then 2 mains right. That is good too. If you finish 1 sid ethat work on the other side, it will put too much stress on the unstrung side and yes, warping frame happen and you might crack the frame.
    3) I will not recommend either method because they are special pattern unless player requested it. If you do so, you will not have 22 crosses unless you add additional one some where based on Yonex pattern.
    4) with fly clamps, it is nearly impossible without tension loss on the final tie off string. To min the tension loss without any of the method you metion, you need to clamp the final fly clamp before tide off as close to frame as possible. THis way, tension loss will be min. However, it also will damage the paint job. It is your call...

    Good luck

  6. #74
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    Great thread. This thread is clearing up a lot of confusions for me. Thanks a lot. Should be a sticky!

  7. #75
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    hey guys i purchase the exact machine the original SH one

    racquets i have restrung so far
    20mx22c victor superti12
    22mx24c capac nano power 900
    26mx28c sotx woven 7i

    so far so good, tho the woven is a lil wide =T

  8. #76
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    Add 0.6 lbs on the cross to make it 28.6 lbs

    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3 View Post
    hey guys i purchase the exact machine the original SH one

    racquets i have restrung so far
    20mx22c victor superti12
    22mx24c capac nano power 900
    26mx28c sotx woven 7i

    so far so good, tho the woven is a lil wide =T

  9. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD View Post
    Add 0.6 lbs on the cross to make it 28.6 lbs
    Dear master Pete, i've done the the 26mx28c with juss 2 hi-qua clamps, is it sufficient since i have the klippermate?

  10. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3 View Post
    Dear master Pete, i've done the the 26mx28c with juss 2 hi-qua clamps, is it sufficient since i have the klippermate?
    1. for high tension, better use 10% rather than 2lbs
    2. HQ clamps tends to result in more tension loss for cross, due to the gap is narrower than the cross gaps. Once the cross was tensioned when bented, it will loss tension once clamp is released, and straighten up.

  11. #79
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    As per GrandMaster LB, use two to three Yonex flying clamps for the cross .

  12. #80
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    Second Master LB said. I feel 2 Yonex clamps for cross at 26 lb+ is enough.

  13. #81
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    is it better to prestring for this machine? (3 clamps)

  14. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3 View Post
    is it better to prestring for this machine? (3 clamps)
    requote. is it POSSIBLE to prestring with 3 clamps?
    1 for the starting. and tension each side? thanks

  15. #83
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    I am not sue what you are asking. I can pre-weave without clamp. See Sir DinkALot's video.

  16. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3 View Post
    is it better to prestring for this machine? (3 clamps)
    Why you need any clamps when pre-string?

    When string (and tension, of course) with flying clamps only, you need 3-4 for mains, and 2-3 for crosses. Therefore, 3-4 in total is good enough.

  17. #85
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    sry i meant if i can prestring the whole racquet then tension all at once. like what *not sure if its dinkalot's* google video did. altho its 2 peice stringing method =T

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