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  1. #103
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    #3 Clamp the strings that goes through top 2 grommets as close to the frame as possible.
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  2. #104
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    #4 Tension both string C1 (center 1) and C2 string with 1 pull.
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  3. #105
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    #5 Clamp C1 and C2 together.
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  4. #106
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    #6 Repeat #5 with C2 and C3
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    Last edited by silentheart; 04-20-2009 at 11:10 PM.

  5. #107
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    #7 Tension the other C1 first and remove the clamp.
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  6. #108
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    #8 Clamp the 2 C1s.
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  7. #109
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    #9 Tension the other c2 and continue. I would like to call this method modified starting clamp method.

  8. #110
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    what do you think of using a modified version of this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO9qW...eature=channel Ive tried it and it seems to work well, only thing is you gotta be a little careful of scratching the racket. the flying clamps against the frame is no good. I cut a business card and slide that on in there.

  9. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by illusionistpro View Post
    what do you think of using a modified version of this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO9qW...eature=channel Ive tried it and it seems to work well, only thing is you gotta be a little careful of scratching the racket. the flying clamps against the frame is no good. I cut a business card and slide that on in there.
    Yes, I agree that Flying clamp against frame can scratch the paint. So, the business card trick works well. However, since M140 top holding plate is good enough to stop the clamp from touch the top of the frame, racquets are safe.

  10. #112
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    Those are very instructive pictures and helpful to beginner like me.
    I have some questions, could you help?
    KM140 is so called hold down mounting, right? what is the difference between hold down and suspension mounting? Seems they both have posts to push the frame outwards.

    Besides I'm getting conflict information on whether to tighten the top and throat post on the base of the machine. One said just leave them loss, and when do tension on main and cross, the posts can move along with the shape change of the racket frame.

    Another one said those tow posts have to be fest tighten on the base of the machine to reduce distortion, or getting fat shape.

    Also one said tighten the post on throat only, but leave the post on top kinda of loss, so that the frame shape can move according to the tension.

    which one is proper way for tightening the two MK140 posts (be specific, the two washers for tightening it on the base frame bar).

    One more, does Load Spreaders help when using it on MK140 (or any two point mounting machine)?
    Thanks you so much in advance!

  11. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich_r View Post
    Those are very instructive pictures and helpful to beginner like me.
    I have some questions, could you help?
    KM140 is so called hold down mounting, right? what is the difference between hold down and suspension mounting? Seems they both have posts to push the frame outwards.

    Besides I'm getting conflict information on whether to tighten the top and throat post on the base of the machine. One said just leave them loss, and when do tension on main and cross, the posts can move along with the shape change of the racket frame.

    Another one said those tow posts have to be fest tighten on the base of the machine to reduce distortion, or getting fat shape.

    Also one said tighten the post on throat only, but leave the post on top kinda of loss, so that the frame shape can move according to the tension.

    which one is proper way for tightening the two MK140 posts (be specific, the two washers for tightening it on the base frame bar).

    One more, does Load Spreaders help when using it on MK140 (or any two point mounting machine)?
    Thanks you so much in advance!
    Ill try to answer your questions.

    When you first mount the racket on the klipper you want the posts loose so you can adjust them. They do not have micro adjustable head/throat mounts like many other machines. Put the racket on there and get the posts as close as possible to holding the racket throat and head. Once its snug go ahead and tighten it down. According to your questions it mite be easier to leave one side fixed and adjust one side only. Goal is to get the racked on there, with the head and throat mounts snug to the frame.

    The 2 point mount with hold down is significantly much better than a 2 point with out. Think of the system with out the head/throat mounts but still smashed down. It could possibly still hold, but will probably buckle after you get through a couple mains. The hold down system for badminton rackets IMO is far superior to the floating system.

    Im unfamiliar using a load spreader on a klipper, but I would think using load spreaders on hold down systems is unecessary. The reason being the hold down system holds a long portion of the top which is what the purpose of the load spreader is. Double dipping with no real benefit.

  12. #114
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    Thank you, illusionistpro.

    So for KM140, it is the proper way to only make one post fixed to the machine's base bar, and leave the other post loss and free to move.

  13. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich_r View Post
    Thank you, illusionistpro.

    So for KM140, it is the proper way to only make one post fixed to the machine's base bar, and leave the other post loss and free to move.
    then you adjust the loose post to proper position. then tight the hell out of the post. if you see my post from the beginning, you will see that you need to push the 2 post in to make sure they do not move.

  14. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentheart View Post
    then you adjust the loose post to proper position. then tight the hell out of the post. if you see my post from the beginning, you will see that you need to push the 2 post in to make sure they do not move.
    Ohh, have to tight both posts. Thanks for correct me.

  15. #117
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    ^ i use my dad's plumbing wrench to secure it, tightening by hand just dont work =(

  16. #118
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    I think i'd favor the eagnas flex 110 over the klippermate simply due to the way you fasten the towers. The large knob on my flex 740 is so easy to secure and sometimes i have trouble losening it, but I usually dont have to.

  17. #119
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    i just got my klipper in the mail yesterday and have been stringing my racquets. i have to say it is a very good machine and although it is only a 2mount system i was not worried or afraid of that when stringing at high tension. i just finished stringing my black knight vortex radon at 27lbs x 29lbs and it turned out great at no point was i worried or afraid of damaging the racquet. of course i was careful while stringing ofcourse and making sure to watch for anything but yes this machine is reliable and easy to use deffinetly love it.

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