Klipper M140 Stringing Instruction

[silentheart]

Repeat the process and switch from side to side until main 9.

Picture 17
Follow the string chart of your racquet for the last 2 main strings.

[silentheart]

Picture 18
Tension the main 10 from B10.
Note: You can not tension Main 10 if you tension Main 11 and clamp main 9 and man 11. If you use swivel clamp, it is OK to clamp main 11.

[silentheart]

Tide off the main. You can use double hitch knot to tide off the main. Depend on the racquet and string pattern, the main tide off can be on B7 to B9.

[silentheart]

Follow your string chart tide a starting knot and weave the first 2 scross strings. You can use any of the knots from the following web site.
(Thanks to Keohi Tennis)
http://www.keohi.com/tennis/misc/knots.htm
Picture 19
Tension the first 2 cross together and clamp the string.

[silentheart]

Picture 20
Weave and tension the rest of the cross strings. Tide off the cross with double hitch knot.

[silentheart]

Please read other posts in this forum. If you are using a 2 point mounting machine, please use +10% (or +2 lb) tension for cross.

Thank you for all your feed back. I will pass it on to Klipper USA for any suggestion and future improvement.

[illusionistpro]

what tension did you string this racket at? what is the max tension you suggest for a 2 point mounting system?

[silentheart]

what tension did you string this racket at? what is the max tension you suggest for a 2 point mounting system?

For the racquet in the picture, I used 20X22 lb. I strung a friend's racquet (special request) at 25X27.5 lb. Depend on the clamp, I tested an oval racquet (an older non Yonex racquet) at 32 lb w/o initial breakage with Yonex clamp. However, I will say safe max tension is about 28 lb with Yonex or HiQua clamps

[illusionistpro]

i hear pre-stringing is popular. is it possible to use a pre-stringing method using this machine? by the way what rackets were you stringing at such tensions? (just for reference)

[LazyBuddy]

Great job!

Myself using the similar method (minor modification during the start), and it's working well. One thing I want to metion is, I will say the safe range is 25lbs or below, as 28lbs is really depend on the racket condition to begin with.

[silentheart]

Hi LB,
I agree for most of the racquet in fair condition, the max should be 25lb cross. This is the starting method used in the their booklet. I will echo what LB said that a new or good condition racquet shoule be able to take 28lb on this Klipper M140 machine.

Hi Illusionistpro,
The racquet in the picture is a new Cab21. The special request racquet was a Winpro (no name brand from Taiwan) and the 29X32 lb test was done on a Cab20ms and I still have that one in mint condition.
Yes, you can prestring the main without any problem. You need to experiment to figure out the right length of main and rest of the the string are for cross.
I just want to add one note, 10% over the max tension for any new racquet shoule not be a issue. Do not go over max recommended tension on your first 5 racquets because we consider you are a newbi.

I know Klipper does not like me to say the con of this machine. It is designed as a tennis machine with mod to fit badminton racquets. So the tensioning head is further than I like for a pure badminton machine.
Also when you remove the racquet from the mount, put your finger in the center 2 mains to open the string wider so you can remove the racquet easily without damamge the strings.

This is a personal machine, you will be ok for 2~3 racquets 1 weekend afternoon (or morning if you are awake). Usually take me about 45min if I pre weave the string or ~50 min without.

[illusionistpro]

i think im sold, one last question regarding clamps. What clamps do you use and what do you reccomend?

[silentheart]

I use HiQua clamps (samples w/o paint) in this instruction. I like Yonex clamps for corss because they are smaller and clamp tighter for cross and fit in smaller gaps. You might have to file down some rough edges for Yonex clamps. Last time I spoke to Klipper, they are in process getting the same OEM version of HiQua clamp from Eagnas. Ask them if they switch over to the wide clamps yet.

[LazyBuddy]

I use HiQua clamps (samples w/o paint) in this instruction. I like Yonex clamps for corss because they are smaller and clamp tighter for cross and fit in smaller gaps. You might have to file down some rough edges for Yonex clamps. Last time I spoke to Klipper, they are in process getting the same OEM version of HiQua clamp from Eagnas. Ask them if they switch over to the wide clamps yet.

I agree.

2 HQ for mains, and 2 Yonex for crosses is way enough. 2 cheap Klipper ones could be emergency backup. Poor man's solution is to have 2 HQ for mains, and 1 Yonex and 1 HQ for crosses. Use the Yonex as the working side, and HQ on the non-working side.

[LazyBuddy]

i hear pre-stringing is popular.

Benefit for pre-string on a 2 point machine is minimal, especially if you are using 2 pieces string method per Yonex. You can only save several minutes (if done correctly), but have a much higher chance to screw up the string.

[LazyBuddy]

So please push the top of the post in and tighten the wing nuts to ensure the post is secured and will not move during stringing.

It's very hard to secure the wing nuts just by hands. Therefore, tools (i.e. piler) might be handy to help. However, as time goes, wing nuts could be damaged due to wear and tear. Therefore, get an extra set of wing nuts can save a lot of headache if one got damaged on the spot.

[silentheart]

It's very hard to secure the wing nuts just by hands. Therefore, tools (i.e. piler) might be handy to help. However, as time goes, wing nuts could be damaged due to wear and tear. Therefore, get an extra set of wing nuts can save a lot of headache if one got damaged on the spot.

Totally agree, That is why I suggest a push in test to make sure the post is secured. You can just hand tight the wing nuts if you pushed in the top of the post and secured the wing nut.