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  1. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by illusionistpro View Post
    just clarifying, when you say pull 10 and 11 in one, you mean, leave your clamp on 8/9, string around to 11th main and back through 10, and then tension both 10 and 11 in one pull there, clamp and tie.
    Yes, it's correct. Leave the flying clamp on 8th and 9th main, while string around and pulling 11th and 10th in 1 shot. Then, it's better to use 2 clamps (1st on 9th and 10th, 2nd on 10th and 11th) to reduce the tension loss, then tie the knots.

  2. #53
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    master sh thanks again so much for the great tutorial. This should be the go-to thread for anyone beginning stringing with a machine that doesnt have fixed clamps.

    I was thinking however about your first few steps. It seems it would be faster and just as efficient if you started with the string through a1 and b1 on both sides and one side clamped to the starting pin. From there you tension the other main, clamp the two mains together, release the tensioner and continue to 2nd main non pin side. Once that main is tensioned move the clamp and then go back to the main attached from the starting pin and continue with your instructions from there. I find this in theory should save a step and eliminate a bit of a funky start up as well as double tensioning that pin attached main. it's a bit hard to understand so i'll attach a simple illustration tell me if im wrong but i think this will save a step.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by illusionistpro; 08-06-2007 at 01:52 PM.

  3. #54
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    Thank you for the advice. I agree with your points. Your method will work. Only draw back is the 2 center mains will have about 1~2 lb lower tension because you are doing a double pull and you will have to re-pull the 1st right main to get it close to right tension anyway. Yes, it is about 2 min faster.
    PS, I follow Klipper's original instruction.

  4. #55
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    does the klipper original instruction have a 1-2 lb tension loss in the mains as well?

  5. #56
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    No, usually less than that because the left main is pulled by itself while right main is under tension already. The right main is pulled again when you remove the starting pin. The truth is, you can't really tell. Specially if you have the U shape grommet.

  6. #57
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    Silentheart,

    Which method is safer for stringing the last main....is it the 2 pulls on the 10main just like the method yonex recommended? or just 1 pull tension on the 11main?

  7. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by alan06 View Post
    Silentheart,

    Which method is safer for stringing the last main....is it the 2 pulls on the 10main just like the method yonex recommended? or just 1 pull tension on the 11main?
    1) Do you mean 10main means 10th main from the center and 11main the 11th main from the center? Or 10main is the 10th main you pull and 11main is the 11th main you pulled?
    2) Is 2 pull means pulling 2 string at 1 time?
    3) Yonex do not specify how you finish the last 2 mains. It is what ever that is easy for you.
    4) I usually pull main 9, string the last and pull the last 2 string at the same time with 2 lb increase.
    I hope this answer your question.

  8. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentheart View Post
    4) I usually pull main 9, string the last and pull the last 2 string at the same time with 2 lb increase.
    I agree that the addtional 2lbs can effectively balance out the possible tension loss when doing the knots. However, I do it a little bit differently. After tension and clamping main #9, I string and tension main #11 (per yonex string pattern), however, I don't clamp it (mostly, impossible to clamp as #9 and #11 are far apart). Then, string and tension main #10, and let the leveler sit for a few more seconds. Then, use 2 flying clamp method, as the 1st one on #9 and 10, 2nd one on #10 and 11. Then, start to make the knots at gromment B8. Of course, there could be tension loss, but should be very much minimized already.

  9. #60
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    Thank you for sharing your great suggestion, LB.

  10. #61
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    The reason for not changing the tension is, I string with "lazy" style as well. Once it's set, I just use it, don't want to change it.

  11. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentheart View Post
    1) Do you mean 10main means 10th main from the center and 11main the 11th main from the center? Or 10main is the 10th main you pull and 11main is the 11th main you pulled?
    2) Is 2 pull means pulling 2 string at 1 time?
    3) Yonex do not specify how you finish the last 2 mains. It is what ever that is easy for you.
    4) I usually pull main 9, string the last and pull the last 2 string at the same time with 2 lb increase.
    I hope this answer your question.
    You're absolutely right! Thanks for your suggestion. So If I were to string my main regularly at 24lbs, then the last pull of 2 strings at the same time should be 26lbs. But wouldn't 26lbs be too extreme on the racket? especially you mentioned 25lbs or under would be a safe range for using the klipper machine.

  12. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by alan06 View Post
    You're absolutely right! Thanks for your suggestion. So If I were to string my main regularly at 24lbs, then the last pull of 2 strings at the same time should be 26lbs. But wouldn't 26lbs be too extreme on the racket? especially you mentioned 25lbs or under would be a safe range for using the klipper machine.
    For first few racquet you do, stay under 25lb. aAter you feel you are more experienced, go higher. The reason for why the you string main 11 first then main10 is because when you pull the last 2 together, the force is acting on the top and lower frame at the same time and it is safe to do so.
    Good luck.

  13. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by alan06 View Post
    . But wouldn't 26lbs be too extreme on the racket? especially you mentioned 25lbs or under would be a safe range for using the klipper machine.
    The safe range is just in theory. If you string main @ 24lbs, then you need to do 26lb for all the crosses anyway. Therefore, the effect on the last 2 mains could be ignored.

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    I am the beginner and have some question about the starting string. one thing I got confused, do we need to tie the start string(B2).... if not once you remove the starting pin and remove the clamp, will it lose tension

  15. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by nttcar View Post
    I am the beginner and have some question about the starting string. one thing I got confused, do we need to tie the start string(B2).... if not once you remove the starting pin and remove the clamp, will it lose tension
    I am not sure what are you asking here you do not tie any string untill you are done with mains.

  16. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by nttcar View Post
    I am the beginner and have some question about the starting string. one thing I got confused, do we need to tie the start string(B2).... if not once you remove the starting pin and remove the clamp, will it lose tension
    You only remove the clamps, when the string is being tensioned. Therefore, the gripper is holding one "holding" the tension for you. You only release the gripper, after you clamp it back on.

  17. #68
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    In my opinion this thread should be in sticky section since it provides very clear instruction on how to string badminton rackets using drop wt., especially for beginner.

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