Results 18 to 34 of 39
07-23-2007, 11:21 AM #18
The new racquet I am working on uses the very common HMG material to cut down costs but with a different cross section to improve its native frame flex. It is surprisingly lively for such a low cost materials racquet. I suspect this is again not your cup of tea.
07-23-2007, 11:34 AM #19
and yes, you're right, chances are pretty close to a 100% that I'll never try it, but that has nothing to do with your, or your rackets (heck, I haven't tried a lot of rackets...)
07-23-2007, 11:37 AM #20
As you mentioned to trace the racquet on the wall (table or any flat serface) you are introducing errors during the drawing process. Also, what is an acceptable range of error? Is 1 mm OK for 27X30 lb? Is 2 mm of for 30X33 lb? Is it OK to have the racquet short or long?
I think most of us string racquets trys to practice and string the racquet to the unstrung shape unless user asked otherwise. To achieve the result and correct measurement, you need some expensive machines or lab equipments to do so. These are something we do not have at home and only some lucky guy like you have at work.
Don't get me wrong, I like your theory, I just having problem practicing it at your level without winning a Lotto or rob a bank for it.
07-23-2007, 12:05 PM #21
i think jerby, fishmilk, and silentheart have made many good points.
Every stringer want a finished racket undeformed. If someone mis-mount a racket, i think he worries about racket durability more so than about the optimum racket springiness. Since yonex uses high to ultra high modulus graphite on high end rackets, i dont think yonex value racket frame bounciness that much. Yes, yonex employed elastic ti in NS9000 but to me they are testing an idea or a marketing pitch. However, this elastic ti suppose to work regardless how u mount a NS9000. I think choosing a right string, right tension, right racket (shaft) stiffness to match your play style are more significant than to worry about frame springiness. If u really value frame springiness, buy the E-10000 made from springy vectran fibers. Hmmm, it just happen taneepak is selling these
07-23-2007, 01:37 PM #22
We are talking about the ideal world vs. the reality right now. I think most players should be happy with a decent (or at least acceptable) job from a local stringer with reasonable price. It's true that we can push the stringers to the edges, and force for everything 100% in perfection. However, what's the point? How to set the margin of error? Does anyone (or, most ppl) willing to pay extra for the "difference", which is hardly noticeable?
07-23-2007, 01:41 PM #23
can any HKer try them out?
07-23-2007, 04:19 PM #24
07-23-2007, 10:06 PM #25
07-23-2007, 10:09 PM #26
Actually it is possible to have a string job done with almost the same neutral shape of an unstrung racquet. I have been doing it all the time. Suggest you go and observe how a Barbolet machine works-it can help you a little but not all.
07-23-2007, 10:43 PM #27
Putting your racquet on the floor and against the wall and then tracing the top frame contour, once before and once after stringing, is the standard that clients should do. Stringers may not like it but you the customer has the right to demand the best from the market. What is wrong with that?
07-23-2007, 11:02 PM #28
07-24-2007, 06:17 AM #29
when you hit the shuttle, in what way does the frame "flex" ?
Does it become more round, or more narrow ?
I think that with 500+ lb of tension in each direction holding the frame, it is not going to noticeably move at all. There will be no flexing in the plane of the strings, and there is no "extra" power there to be lost.
I don't think developing a new racquet will prove anything.
Take two of the same racquet.
String one properly and the other distorted (but at same tension).
Compare the two.
Then come back and tell us how big the power difference is.
It's not so much that I don't believe you, more that you're a long way from convincing me that this effect makes a noticeable difference.
07-24-2007, 09:00 AM #30
When a racquet is strung at high tension and still retain its neutral shape, a power shot, especially of the type that uses the wrist snap, will flex the frame inwards along the longer sides and then regain its original shape in a flash.
I don't know about others, but I sure can feel the difference between one that has its native flex squeezed dead and one that is neutral. It just feels more lively, more airy, and if you play with a sore elbow or shoulder you will see and feel it even more. I have players who bought brand new racquets complaining that their strings were rubbish requesting me to restring; but I found that many times the fault was with an overly overstretched frame.
However with tensions that are below 27lbs the difference may be marginal. BTW, overstretched frames can also sometimes be the cause of micro tears at the 12 o'clock.
07-24-2007, 09:14 AM #31
07-24-2007, 10:07 AM #32
07-24-2007, 10:11 AM #33
1) cut the string and restring it again? measure the racquet before you string the second time?
2) ask the customer to check him/herself to see if it pass?
3) are you sure the racquet line draw correctly at first place?
What if 2) and customer ask you to restring?
As I posted before, which rule should I follow? 10% or +3 lb difference at high tension? because it will make at lease 1 mm difference in length with these 2 method at the high tension you are proposing.
Thanks in advance.
07-24-2007, 10:13 AM #34
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