Hey guys, I have a dilemna. I've started stringing my teammates' rackets for almost a month now, and recently, several of them have been commenting on a lack of "pop" and quickly lowering tension. Originally, they complimented on the string job, but it seems like the tension is going down the drain far too fast, as our previous stringer seemed to be doing a better job keeping tension. Here are my specs: -Eagnas Easy 3 with 2 Hi-Qua clamps in conjunction with the clamp that came with the machine. -Prestrung everything 1 peice, but in half after main is finished, and cross strung starting from the top. -Last pull is always +2 lbs with a fixed clamp to account for creep loss from tie-off. -All strings are prepulled. -First 4 mains on each side are pulled, then each pulled to end and tied off. -String pattern is done exactly to Yonex string pattern. -Starting knot is done with the double loop knot; tie-offs are double knots pulled as tight as possible. Some things that I've noticed: -Knots don't seem to have slipped, sunken into the grommet, etc.
sounds like your doin a quality, i have been stringing for about the same time for my club and havent had any complaints. what kind of sting are you using? what tension are you putting? have you tried doin a two string method? jerrod
Given all the techniques you have listed that you use, I can't really see any problems at all - strings will always lose zing after two or three sessions of play. Just as an experiment, try the following: 1. If possible, use your fixed clamps all the way through the stringing - don't use your fly clamps at all. 2. Use the Yonex 2 piece pattern (you can find the pictures on the Yonex website under "Strings and Stringing Instructions"), and start your crosses from the bottom. 3. Let the racket "rest" for 48hrs before it is played with at all. For my own rackets, I normally choose my tension and then add a pound or two, since letting the racket rest will bring the tension back down to where I originally wanted it. Obviously, some strings hold their tension better than others, and the tension value itself is a factor. I think your team mates might be trying to demoralize you.
The Easy 3 is a manual crank machine and not constant pull. Maybe the previous stringer used a drop weight or electronic type which tend to string tighter than manual cranks. Maybe you could increase the tension to mitigate the tension creep after the string job. I'm not a professional stringer but have see previous posts regarding this issue
I have done experiments with my Pro's Pro Pilot and discovered that most strings lose 1/2 to 1lb of tension when held in place for ten seconds or so. There's no way around this - it's the nature of the beast with cranks. As coachgary suggests, it might be worth testing the string to see how much it loses being held by the crank. Set up a scrap piece around a tension calibrator at your desired tension and leave it held for 5 minutes or so. When you come back, the string will have lost some tension, so add this difference on and you should find that you end up with the value you originally wanted once the crank creep has worn off.
-I am doing a 2 peice method: I prestring one peice but then cut the string where the main and cross meet. -Previous stringer used a 2 point crank machine. I don't really think the tension has much to do with it. All stringjobs, barring other factors such as frequency of playing, should lose tension at the same relative speed. What my friends are noting is that it seems like the stringbed is losing "pop" and tension faster than the previous stringer.
in korea they recently came up with something called string upper but since it's a spray it's very hard to import those
I believe the use of one-piece stringing, which results in the last cross string at the frame top usning a tie-off knot is the main reason. The sweet spot for punchy shots is nearer the top half of the frame. This sweet spot performs at its best when the first cross string at the top is taut. This requires that the first top string be strung as the first cross string, instead of being the last that one-piece stringing mandates, and that this first cross string should be firmly anchored with a real starting knot instead of a tie-off knot. I have strung and tested enough racquets now to come out strongly against not using the top cross string as the starting cross string. I would go so far as to advocate that you not use one-pc stringing and alsot not to start your crosses from the bottom or throat end.
John: you need to get the two additional clamps, I believe that's your main problem. Eepak: I agree that top down gives you more "pop" but I string one-piece bottom up and never have the lost "pop" problem.
Personally, I think it could be a combo of issues, the main ones can be: 1. Clamping: HQ clamps might be good for main (low tension, if by itself), but can cause issues with cross, due to the smaller gap. Therefore, the extra "curve" can cause the extra loss of tension. 2. Tensioning: Like others pointed out, crank machine tend to lose tension easily, as it's not consistantly pulling. The result is, when you rush for a job, the string is not fully "stretched" during the process. After times, onces the string fully "stretched", you lose more tension. Constant pulling machine (i.e. drop weight) will fully "stretch" the string, especially if you let the leveler to sit for an extra 10-15 seconds after tensioning. 3. Stringing vs. playing environment difference: The higher temperature and humidity level will make the tension feel like dropping. If your working (i.e. home) place is a lot of cooler than the gym, it can cause the issue. The previous stringer's working environment might be similar to the gym condition, therefore, the issue is not significant.
You can massage the each cross string by pulling it up and down during the tensioning process. Any slacks will show up immediately. This method works very well with drop weight machine.
100% agree. I used to do an experiement with my drop weight machine, by straighten the "curves" when doing cross. You will be amazed to see how much the leveler can drop, once you make the cross to be straight. Many times, I need to re-adjust the leveler (re-tension) to make up the tension loss.
You can afford to have to leave out one cross string at the bottom if you string your crosses bottom up and you will not experience any power loss. Try that on the top cross when doing top down cross stringing, you will quickly know something is terribly wrong. As a matter of fact the bottom end of the frame contributes little, if any, to a racquet's power delivery. You can dispense with one or even two cross strings at the bottom or not bother with 10% higher tension for the bottom tie-off, and you will not lose any power. The bottom is inert, the top alive. In the name of keeping and maintaining the highest stringing standards, I am strongly against one-pc stringing or bottom up cross stringing, regardless of what Yonex advocates.
Having just done three rackets at 23 x 25 using only swivel clamps and 15% overpull for knotting, I can safely say that I'll be going up to 25 x 27 next time. The feel of a fresh 23 x 25 is incredible, but over the first 24 hrs a little of the zing disappears so, hopefully, a 25 x 27 will settle in to the same as a new 23 x 25. If you can do so safely, I'd recommend adding to your usual tension (especially if you use "creepy" string) and DON'T use the racket until 24 hrs later - by then it should have calmed down and you won't be disappointed after using it brand new.
That loss of zing after a few days is usually due more to the use of 1-pc stringing or 2-pcs stringing that went wrong or not done properly. How do you string your racquet?
I do my 900P exactly to Yonex specs (2 piece). To be fair, I took it literally straight off the machine to a session, and I didn't pre-stretch my BG-85 or BG-80 (but I did pre-stretch a for friend's BG-65). After a couple of sessions, tensions stay stable, so there's no continuing tension loss. I've got a set of Nanogy 98 coming soon, so I might do a little pre-stretch on that occasion.
Eepak, I can't agree with your statements. I started using DinkAlot's method of stringing and it felt about the same to me. My friend's immediately noticed better performance. Also my coach likes to skip the second last string on the top, and his stringjobs are some of the best I've tried. I'd have him do my racquets but I need to do tennis as well.
Again, just reinterate, I will agree with Eepak, that a top-down stringing pattern does yield a more taut, crisper, superior feeling and performing string bed. However, the benefits for me are marginal and is off-set by the 3-5 minutes I can save doing a one-piece method. So, I still usually do the 1-piece method.
Update: I spoke with John (Xiao Hou) and I believe we have found the factors: +Extreme temperature fluctuations recently in SoCal. +Using only one clamp per side to hold the string, instead of a two clamp staggered method per side: losing tension, uneven tension +Not pre-stretching the string +Need more consistent pulls
