Unstrung, that would be considered slightly/moderately head-heavy for a 674mm racket. For comparison, my MP100s (2U) range from 285mm to 292mm. My AT900-Ts (3U) range from 295mm to 298mm. My AT700 (3U) was about 300mm (very head-heavy). Cheers.
when people say balance point, i alway forget. Do you measure from the tip of the racket or from the base of the racket?
I don't think so, I have seen rackets with balance point at 300mm described (by the manufacturer) as balanced; 310mm as head-heavy. I would say 290mm was quite head-light.
Hum, sorry to disappoint you, but it's not because YOU saw some rackets described like that that it's an absolute truth. If you search the web a bit better than with your previous researches, you'll come to see that AMRaider is very precisely right, for most, and by most I mean quite all of them, manufacturers and sellers use the same balance point scale than Yonex. Thanks for trying...
That's why so obviously stated where my info came from - I made NO claim at all that I was disputing anyone nor that my info was more factual, I was quoting what I had found from researching rackets (I have done a lot) and then made an interpretation based on that research. What is so bad about that? When I said "I don't think" so I was actually referring to the OP - Legendarydoug, NOT AMRaider, whom I actually thought gave a very good answer!!!!!! Sorry If I misled you.
Relax folks . I want to clarify that my earlier comparison was mainly drawn based on my own experience with Yonex rackets and what I have read here on BC. The Yonex MP-100 actually says "Even Balance" on the shaft. Personally, I find that the MP-100 feels slightly head-heavy in my hand and that would also seem to be the consensus here on BC. In addition to balance point, it is also important to consider the overall weight of the racket. Multiplying weight by balance point will give you an approximation of swing weight. Swing weight is a very important spec that determines (in part) how much effort is required to get the racket up to speed. It is possible that some manufactures take racket weight into account when they call a racket "even balance" or "head-heavy". What I mean is that perhaps their rackets are rather light, so a BP of 300mm may actually feel like an "even balanced" racket when swung so they end up labeling 300mm as "even balanced". For a picking a racket, the best advice I can give would be to find the BP in mm as best you can and multiply that by the racket's mass in grams. If it's close to what you usually like to play with, try the racket out. For example, my brand new MP-100 2U-G4 TW was 94.5g with a BP of 288mm. Strung and gripped it became 105g and 285mm. (105 x 285 = 29925. not very scientific, but I use this number for comparing swing-weight to other rackets) I really like how my MP-100 plays, so when I look for a new racket, I aim for rackets with similar specs (around 94.5g and 288mm unstrung). Strung and gripped, they should feel similar to what I normally use. Cheers.
kitseb, the problem with relying on "data" from manufacturer's specs on balance points is that most often the info on racquet length and whether the BP was measured strung or unstrung is lost. For example, from the data you have gathered you disagree that 290mm is head-heavy and you think it is quite head-light. Now, I have a SOTX D500 that is slightly head-heavy with BP of 291mm. It is that way because BP was measured unstrung and the racquet is only 670mm. Another example - a racquet with a BP of 300mm CAN be balanced if it was measured already strung and it's 665mm in length. I have a Carlton that's like that. AMRAider's method of stating unstrung/unstrung and racquet length with the BP ranges is the correct way to go about it.
Just relax, buddy... Reading manufacture spec and reviews is a good 1st step in racket research, but not enough, and sometimes rather confusing. The specs and reviews can only give you a very brief idea, but if you need to make a decision, get your hand on the actual racket, demonstrate it, and your own hand will give you the answer. No one says your method is wrong, it's just not enough if you are really into a racket's true "playability" base on your own preference.
Headlight, Head heavy, and balanced are all relative; one might say that perhaps the AT900T is even balanced, while some may say it's head heavy. Former AT700 users may even say that's it's headlight [compared to their previous racquet].
yeah i found out the racket was definitely even balance much to my dismay. i guess the balance point would vary depending on racket length obviously. damn advertisers got my hopes up when they said head heavy next to 290mm.
I didn't mean to seem upset. I suppose I was a little irked that someone jumped down my throat so quickly, but that was my own fault for not "quoting" the poster I was replying to. Problem is so much of the meaning is lost in the virtual world so I'll use these a bit more. Agreed entirely, thats why I don't rely on quoted data, nor reviews of rackets, because IMO the only way to know how a racket will feel is to play with it. However, manufacturer data is also very useful because individual BP (and other measurements) will vary (possibly only sightly) even of the same racket type. Likewise, if you rely just on your home tests - there is a big problem with repeatability - strings, grip size, measurement equipment and method will all alter the results. Speaking as an engineer, you do need to consider manufacturing details for a straight comparison of the attributes, however, for the feel of a racket, the only method is to feel it!!! So it depends on the answer Legendarydoug wanted - what will it feel / play like? or what the physics say? Hopefully he'll have both.
For most racket brands,esp those which marketed in asia,+290mm is already included as for offensive play,which is also considered to be a head heavy.While below that is for defensive play. Some of rackets maybe have balance point of 300mm or more,like high end yonex,(AT,MP,NS),or some european brands.Those r made for players who got more faster swing speed,for intermediate or better players.So,in normal case,between 290mm to 300mm is already good for most beginners to intermediate players.
