Did my stringer do a good job? this issue was first inquired by me in the ashaway vs yonex string thread. i was recommended by taneepak to string my new ashaway micro power 0.66 at 25/27.5lbs. he mentioned something about the correct stringing method for higher tension but as i am not a stringer and all those diagrams of stringing method only makes me get a headache, i can't even start to figure out what to look for. but i still would like to know if my stringer is doing a good job. and a lot of members have questioned their stringers' method too. so i think i want to start a thread where members can post their rackets pictures and get feedback from experienced stringers here. at the very least we can find, via elimination method, a good stringer where we live. hopefully good stringers can help us out.
let me start : i have two rackets. both strung by different stringer. one use 2 knots method while the other use 4 knots method. pictures as follows....(arrows indicate the location of knots. 1. my carbonex racket using 2 knots method. it seems like the frame is not really oval. tension is 25lbs. 2. my ISO racket using 4 knots method. this is my current stringer. tension asked for 23lbs. is the stringer using the 4 knots method a good stringer? or at least did he use the right method? second question, the carbonex looks stressed even with 25lbs one knot method. will it stand the tension of 25/27.5lbs of 4 knots method? wouldn't want it to break. any help with this matter is greatly appreciated.
Both racquets are not correctly strung. The one piece two knots should have the knot at the 8th grommet throat end instead of at 7th. The top knot at grommet 6 is correct. But pls stay away from one piece two knot stringing because it is an inferior stringing pattern that has no punch/crispness. It also loses tension fast and will get soft after a week. The second racquet has the three knots at the throat end all wrong at grommets #7 (2) and grommet #9 for the cross string. I believe the stringer strung the mains at the two side ends sequentially, which is wrong. The top knot is correct. I cannot tell if the top or the throat end has been used for the starting knot. I would stay away from the stringers who strung your two racquets.
Sorry for a mistake in earlier post. The second racquet has the top knot wrong too, at grommet #10. It should be at grommet #6. It is a terrible job.
thanks for the feed back taneepak. *sighs* it really is hard to find a good stringer. most of them simply string whatever way they want because they think social players dont care. :crying: so i guess i have to try another stringer huh? i am worried i will never find a good one. maybe i could give them a diagram of the yonex stringing method and ask them to string it like that. but i worried they would not want, or dont know how, to follow the stringing method recommended by yonex.
I Think The 2 Knot Picture Is Okay, The Stringer Just Add 1 More Cross At The Throat, So The Knot At 7. Lcw Used That Method On His Ns9000 Before. My Stringer Used That Too, Dont Wanto To Waste Any String Imo. 1st Picture Do 1 Piece, Cross From Throat To Top Like Usual. THE FRAME GET STRESSED MAYBE BECAUSE THE STRINGER DO SAME TENSION AT MAIN AND CROSS
i dont think that they will follow your instructions........ ask around, some local might help you to good stringers at your local place...
no wonder my ISO racket feels crappy. it uses the same string as before but before the stringing felt more uummmphh! this one feels a bit dead. at least to me. should i cut and restring. i only want to do that if it is harmful to my racket. if not i guess i will just use it till the string breaks again. fells bad because that string is pretty expensive for someone like me.
Hi azabaz_ipoh, Don't mean to nitpick, but (both) the stringers you've encountered do NOT follow Yonex's Stringing Instructions. The crosses should start/end from A9 (grommet #9), and NOT A8 (grommet #8) for both rackets. Starting/Ending crosses from A8 would cause them to NEED to tie-off (although I strongly believe the two-piece job was 'throat-top') at A9. Some brands/models of rackets have crosses that start/end at A8, but NOT your Yonex Cab & ISO... Hope this has helped.
there's a lot of stringing places here and most stick to 2 knots method. i have tried four stringers, three of them use 2 knots method and the last one use 4 knots method. most players i know dont care either way. they just send their racket for restringing without a bother about the type of string they use or the method used as they usually send their rackets to the nearest shop. this place spoils me. hahahahaha. even when i simply play for fun i want things done right.
How about mine, both strung by same stringer with BG80 at 25# and 4 knots: 1. Carbonex 30ms 2. MP 21 Sorry for the overlap of one racket on top of the other.
i tried looking for the yonex stringing diagram via google but there's just too much sites to check. anybody here have the diagram? or maybe an address to the site. thanks for your help. it would be even better if someone could post it here for all our reference. ooopppsss wait, i found it!!! is this still applicable?
Hi otterfun, The tie-offs (for both your Cab 30 & MP30) at the top should be at A5. Yours were done at A8 & A7 respectively. I get the impression that the stringer/s did this of 'convenience'. This practice/habit is technically 'unsound'. I am not sure, however, as to the extent of damage this might do to your frames. azabaz_ipoh, There's been some 'updates'. These should be added on to your earlier diagram with Yonex's Stringing Instructions...
Thanks punchclear. Here are the closeup photos with quoted text from punchclear's response. Hi otterfun, The tie-offs (for both your Cab 30 & MP30) at the top should be at A5. Yours were done at A8 & A7 respectively. Carb 30ms top: 1 knot: Carb 30ms bottom : 3 knots mp21 top : 1 knot mp21 bottom 3 knots: rest of punchclear's response... I get the impression that the stringer/s did this of 'convenience'. This practice/habit is technically 'unsound'. I am not sure, however, as to the extent of damage this might do to your frames.
wow..lotta people can't seem to string to the official yonex stringing patterns..sigh..espicially people that work @ shops.. yes..agree..there is TECHNICALLY..no wrong way of stringing it..but..i think yonex distributes stringing pattern diagrams for a reason..lol
The 3 updates are correct except for the crosses' start and tie-off. If you follow Yonex's suggestion to have the starting knot for the crosses at the throat end with the tie-off at the top end, you will lose some tension at the sweetspot and the playability will have a distinct lack of crispness. Reverse it by having the crosses' starting knot at the top and the finishing tie-off at the throat end, and you will have the best playabilty, but this procedure requires more care especially at high tensions.
Azabaz_ipoh, make sure your stringer uses a 6-point stringing machine, as 2-point machines could end with a disaster if the stringer uses my method and is inexperienced.
