Hello. I just broke 2 racquets, so would like some help on what went wrong? I've been stringing for about a year now - mostly my own (first model i had was a Yonex Armortec 800 off, then i got a fukuda - aero 950). Normally i put about 25-26lbs (and i know that crosses needs to be 2lbs higher). and no problem there (except they tend to be a bit round anyone knows why?) (my machine is with a "wheel", and on a "foot", and have 4 tightning-points and 2 more for the top and bottum for the racquets head). Here's how i normally do with my fukuda: 25lbs on mains and jsut keep going. The last 2 strings on each side, i do together (meaning that string 10 and 11 I string together). All with the same tension. Crosses: i start with a very low tension on the first 2 string (which i also do together), and then i go for 27lbs until i reach last 2 strings, which i do with a very low tension. (they tend to be a bit round). This time I lowered the tension after string 8 on mains (from 24-18) - string 10 and 11 i did together. Then i started stringing across. Started from bottum to top. When i got to string 17, and started weaving string 18, the racquet broke. It broke in the same side that i just tightened the clamp at. But it was 2 holes above. It was a Yonex nanospeed 7700. (Afterwards i did a forza kevlar N-power 150 in the excact same way - and nothing happen (except that the headshape got a little bit round) ) Then i almost did the excact same thing (though i followed an instruction manual from yonex - saying that i needed to start my cross-stringing from the top - which i did. Then the same thing happen - it broke, and in the same way (just that it broke in the bottum) any clues on why this happen? because normally i put more tension in the fukudas, and there's no problems....
Hi, There is something wrong with your stringing job with when all your prior racquet comes out "rounded" 1) If you can give us a model number or some picture of your stringing machine, it will help a lot. 2) When you start the first 2 crosses and end the last 2 corsses with low tension, how low? 3) Why do you lower tension on main after main 8? What tension was on 9, and 10/11 together? 4) Although it is not in Yonex stringing instruction, it is recommended to string all mains on same tension and all crosses on the same tension.
http://www.steinp.dk/index.asp?key=17&id=411 brought it from that place, and almost looks like that http://www.eagnas.com/jpgd/smbad.jpg the last one looks more in color and so on.. it says Lily-lee from eagnas.com
1) so is it Sp or is it a Eagnas machine? 2) If you mount the racquet like the 2nd picture, no wonder the racquet crack. The side support is too close to the 3 and 9 o'clock position. There is no load spreader at 6 and 12 o'clock. 3) You mean it is printed with Lily-Lee from Eagnas.com on the machine? 4) please take a picture of a racquet mounted on your machine.
If the rackets come out to be "round", that means there's no enough tension from the cross to push the final outcome to be "normal". It appears very strange that you actually use lower tension for the final strings, which many stringers actually put a bit extra to balance out the tension lost. Also, machine calibration and maintenance can also play key roles in such cases.
the reason i use lower, is because i have experinced that sometimes the string actually broke because of high tension.
mite be a good idea to check the calibration of your machine first.....i read sumwer on the forums that it wud increase the spring life of my manual crank mechanism if i undid the tension wen not stringing. next time i did a racket i found the tension at least 8 lbs too high. thank god i did a club players racket and was only doing it at 21-23, otherwise i wud have had my first racket break aswell. now i have to go to argos and buy a scale and calibrate my machine again....but ah well iv done lik 40-50 rackets now neway mite b a good thing to recalibrate it agen.
Firstly, if they are coming out round, you mite want to check your head and throat posts, and make sure theyre not moving and giving in when you tension mains. Also do not over tighten the side mounts, as this ads unnecessory force to the outside, pushing inward. I dont understand what you mean when you say tighten the clamp, but if you mean mount, well, you shouldnt be tightening mounts much, if at all mid stringing process.
Well made string these days can handle at least 30+ lbs without any issues, as the pros are using 34 or even 36lbs of tension on their rackets. Of course, that's under the assumption of the stringer knows what s/he is doing, and all the tools are in good shape (i.e. no rough edge, etc)
