Why +2lbs On The Cross?

**LCW Fan** · 09-19-2011, 12:56 AM

For me 24/26 is best..... coz at first my N90II strung 28/28. Now strung 24/26 with BG66 ultimax ........

**KinkySmasher** · 09-19-2011, 01:24 AM

Originally Posted by j4ckie

It also makes the strings much softer. The tension will eventually even out and it'll be much softer than intended. If you want a larger sweetspot, just pick a lower tension. There is the idea of keeping the tension proportional to the string length, but that is hard to do, takes a lot of time, and will eventually even out. In the end, the most accurate and reproduceable way to string is to keep the same tension for all mains/all crosses.
If they string professionally or at least a lot, they should have a machine with good support and dont need to add tension on the crosses.

Wait, so if my stringer has a $4000 Yonex stringing machine, I don't need to add +2 on the crosses?

**j4ckie** · 09-19-2011, 05:19 AM

Originally Posted by KinkySmasher

Wait, so if my stringer has a $4000 Yonex stringing machine, I don't need to add +2 on the crosses?

You don't need to, no. A 4000$ machine should have very good 6-point support, so to maintain the racket shape, you should string with even tension. However, there are a lot of stringers who started stringing with 2-point support and crank or dropweight, so they had to add tension on the crosses - and they kept the habit.

However, you CAN add tension on the crosses - it gives a different feel. To me, it feels slightly tighter and more controlled. A 26/28 stringjob would feel very similar to a 27/27, with the 26/28 being just a tad softer and more powerful in feeling. I can't say anything objective about power though as I have no way of measuring smash speed (radar guns are expensive and we dont have a 1000fps camera either^^).

**KinkySmasher** · 09-19-2011, 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by j4ckie

You don't need to, no. A 4000$ machine should have very good 6-point support, so to maintain the racket shape, you should string with even tension. However, there are a lot of stringers who started stringing with 2-point support and crank or dropweight, so they had to add tension on the crosses - and they kept the habit.

However, you CAN add tension on the crosses - it gives a different feel. To me, it feels slightly tighter and more controlled. A 26/28 stringjob would feel very similar to a 27/27, with the 26/28 being just a tad softer and more powerful in feeling. I can't say anything objective about power though as I have no way of measuring smash speed (radar guns are expensive and we dont have a 1000fps camera either^^).

Wait a second, the whole point of adding +2 on the crosses is so that the racket don't warp right?

But if I understand correctly, you are saying that with a $4000 Yonex machine the racket won't warp with even tension. That means, if I add +2 on the cross the the racket WILL warp correct?

**j4ckie** · 09-19-2011, 10:16 AM

Originally Posted by KinkySmasher

Wait a second, the whole point of adding +2 on the crosses is so that the racket don't warp right?

But if I understand correctly, you are saying that with a $4000 Yonex machine the racket won't warp with even tension. That means, if I add +2 on the cross the the racket WILL warp correct?

Yes, that's right.
However, some like the feel of it - Marc Zwiebler is an example, always asking for 35/37. The racket is gonna be a bit narrow, but as long as you string below 30lbs, most rackets will be able to deal with the strain.

**KinkySmasher** · 09-19-2011, 10:41 AM

Originally Posted by j4ckie

Yes, that's right.
However, some like the feel of it - Marc Zwiebler is an example, always asking for 35/37. The racket is gonna be a bit narrow, but as long as you string below 30lbs, most rackets will be able to deal with the strain.

Ok so I think Badmintoncentral should clarify this then since (I assume) most people who come here and read this stickied thread just think that they always got to do the +2 on the cross, not knowing it will actually warp their racket.

***kwun*** · 09-19-2011, 01:18 PM

Originally Posted by KinkySmasher

Wait a second, the whole point of adding +2 on the crosses is so that the racket don't warp right?

But if I understand correctly, you are saying that with a $4000 Yonex machine the racket won't warp with even tension. That means, if I add +2 on the cross the the racket WILL warp correct?

did you guys even read the first post?

**j4ckie** · 09-19-2011, 03:40 PM

Originally Posted by kwun

did you guys even read the first post?

Probably not - few do

Poor you - stickying threads where no one will read your post :P Although I can't say I've found it to be true. On my machine, adding anything will distort the frame ever so slightly...although I prefer the feel of 5-10% tighter crosses.

**KinkySmasher** · 09-19-2011, 05:31 PM

First post is a stringer saying you need to add at least 1 pound even with good support.

Then another stringer said you don't need it with good support or else you're gonna warp your racket.

Can't you stringers agree?

**j4ckie** · 09-19-2011, 05:38 PM

Originally Posted by KinkySmasher

First post is a stringer saying you need to add at least 1 pound even with good support.

Then another stringer said you don't need it with good support or else you're gonna warp your racket.

Can't you stringers agree?

Ah well, it's similar to "Does higher tension give pro level players more power?"....no one agrees on it EVER

Anyway, kwun has some valid points which I'd normally agree with - but I can't, because I've made the experience that any added tension on the crosses warps the racket.
Perhaps I've got better support than kwun

***kwun*** · 09-19-2011, 07:38 PM

there are many variables and many assumptions.

with my 6pt machine, i find main==cross, and then strung 2piece bottom up give the best result. no warp/deform, very good feel and repulsion.

but many people swear by +2lbs but they strung differently and have different machines.

this thread just attempt to explain the reasoning.

in the end, it depends on the stringer. the most important part is to experiment.

**KinkySmasher** · 09-20-2011, 08:17 PM

Originally Posted by kwun

there are many variables and many assumptions.

with my 6pt machine, i find main==cross, and then strung 2piece bottom up give the best result. no warp/deform, very good feel and repulsion.

but many people swear by +2lbs but they strung differently and have different machines.

this thread just attempt to explain the reasoning.

in the end, it depends on the stringer. the most important part is to experiment.

So it seems to me the best thing would be to ask the stringer "I want a tension of XX. Can you do it in a way that wouldn't warp the racket?" Am I right?

***kwun*** · 09-20-2011, 08:28 PM

Originally Posted by KinkySmasher

So it seems to me the best thing would be to ask the stringer "I want a tension of XX. Can you do it in a way that wouldn't warp the racket?" Am I right?

agree. unless you think your stringer has no clue. then trust his skills and let him do his job.

**hesho** · 10-09-2011, 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by kwun

agree. unless you think your stringer has no clue. then trust his skills and let him do his job.

what if the stringer has no idea lol. I kinda just started stringing this summer and i've always done +1 on cross strings since that's what BK recommended on my stringing machine. So it's really based on the machine then if it should be even or not? Would +1 on cross even make that much of a difference?

**j4ckie** · 10-09-2011, 02:15 PM

Originally Posted by hesho

what if the stringer has no idea lol. I kinda just started stringing this summer and i've always done +1 on cross strings since that's what BK recommended on my stringing machine. So it's really based on the machine then if it should be even or not? Would +1 on cross even make that much of a difference?

It's based on the machine, and 1lbs can make a difference. It's not so noticeable at lower tensions (up to 24-25lbs) because the racket's own resistance will still be strong at those tensions, but when you approach 30lbs, you should know your machine and how much to add or you'll warp (or in some bad cases even break) the racket.

**hesho** · 10-09-2011, 02:48 PM

oh good god, the highest i'm stringing right now is 22lbs lol. I mainly got the stringing machine because the other guy that strings, his scale is insanely off. His 22lbs is looser then my 18lbs. What i do find interesting though, he says the looser the strings, the more power you get but you get less control while the tighter the strings, the less power you get but more control. I always thought this was the opposite? (tighter = more power, less control and loose = less power, more control)

**j4ckie** · 10-09-2011, 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by hesho

oh good god, the highest i'm stringing right now is 22lbs lol. I mainly got the stringing machine because the other guy that strings, his scale is insanely off. His 22lbs is looser then my 18lbs. What i do find interesting though, he says the looser the strings, the more power you get but you get less control while the tighter the strings, the less power you get but more control. I always thought this was the opposite? (tighter = more power, less control and loose = less power, more control)

Both statements aren't entirely correct, but his is more accurate. Although there is certainly a lower limit to the tension power-wise.
Normally, you'll have a tension which feels just right. For most, that is the tension where they have most control while still being able to play with decent power. I like the feel of high tensions, but limit myself because I know I lose some power above 25lbs, and my usual 28lbs BG80/NBG98 is a compromise of the incredible control and feel of high tension (30-31lbs) and power of lower tension. When I had a 27lbs BG65 on my racket, I actually hit 80% out of court because I lost so much control.