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Thread: Why +2lbs On The Cross?
12-24-2011, 07:34 AM #307
If you say add 2lbs. to the cross is your recommendation regardless of the machine, then on an ES5Pro or Panda's set-up, or for that matter, just about every machine that has the Chudek side supports (assuming good side arms), the rackets will come out narrow.
12-24-2011, 10:16 AM #308
12-24-2011, 10:26 AM #309
that could be the case with your set-up and your technique. This is a more than set-up topic, since it must also be related to rackets, hole patterns, etc.
Anyway, I am here to share my experience with people. It's important to make sure all kinds of voices are heard by people, as we are doing over the last couple of days.
mmm, Christmas wish.... someone to spend his / her life to do a research about this!
Merry Christmas, all!
12-24-2011, 12:47 PM #310
my 2 cents... using a shuttle express 6 point machine, i frequently string at 27 - 29 pounds and always keep the crosses and the mains the same, i dont get any frame deformity.
Zymax 67 @ 27x27 pounds. The shape frame is exactly like its unstrung outline.
Point being, secure the racket frame into the 6 point mounting correctly and the mount should prevent any frame deformity during stringing.
12-24-2011, 01:44 PM #311
If Panda used 29/31 on his machine, the racket would come out long. In fact, ideally, on Panda's machine it should be 31/30 to get as close to the original shape as possible.
If you were to use Panda's stringing machine with your technique (29/31), your racket would come out long.
If Panda were to use your stringing machine with an even string tension (30/30), Panda's racket would come out round.
On your machine Panda would need to use the 2lbs. difference.
Panda advocates whatever method is necessary to get as close to the original shape of the racket as possible. And that is stringing machine dependent (due to the type of side supports and shoulder arms).
12-24-2011, 01:57 PM #312
Example, Panda's stringing machine set-up: Combo 910 + WISE Tennishead 2086
For a 30lbs. string job...
...originally with stock side supports and side arms: would need to go 28.5/31.5 to get the right shape (3lbs. difference)
...upgraded to the SPTennis badminton side supports: now need to go 29.5/30.5 to get the right shape (1lbs. difference)
...finally upgraded to the Chudek side supports + strengthened the side arms: now go 30/30 to get the right shape (0lbs. difference)
Quite a few people have strung on Panda's machine and some had done the +2lbs. because they are used to it on their machine or other machines. When the racket is done, it's too long...
...again, conclusion: every machine is different and may need a different method of stringing to get the correct racket shape. If you have your method working well on your machine, GREAT! But it doesn't mean it's going to work on all machines.
Whenever Panda strings a on new machine, Panda will ask whoever is an expert on that machine what they do and then Panda follows their recommendation first. Once the racket is strung, then Panda will know for sure.
12-24-2011, 02:09 PM #313
Agree.LI too too several tries to come about to my own conclusion as to qhat worked best on my machine. Initially I did add 2 pounds to the cross and the racket didn't quite look right. I stencilled many outlines and compared them to the strung racket after I was done to confirm.
12-24-2011, 06:45 PM #314
am i weird in that i do 1 pound only? I noticed there is a slight circle when i was stringing and so i did a 2 pounds cross but then it looked kinda long so i did an outline and compared different racquets after stringing. i find that doing 1 pound is just right for me anyway *shrugs.
maybe its' because i'm only stringing at 19/20 or 22/23 pounds *shrugs.
12-24-2011, 08:38 PM #315
12-25-2011, 06:25 PM #316
If the machine is this one, what should be done?
12-25-2011, 07:12 PM #317
12-25-2011, 07:44 PM #318
12-25-2011, 08:23 PM #319
and that's exactly the reason why i don't usually use other people's machine even though i have access to top end machines like ES5Protech and Victor 7030's. my string job would come out differently, not only the shape of the racket but also the final feel (which is ultimately affected by the shape + tension). i have experimented on my own machine and have found the optimal flow that produces the best result, and that includes both the mounting, tension selection, as well as the technique and rate that i tension each string.
12-31-2011, 07:44 AM #320
DinkAlot, I want to ask you a question about a little different question.
Considering your experience, do you think that in a crank machine the loss of tension, because of the lack of constant pulling, justifies the use of a drop weight machine, that its slower and more difficult to operate?
Last edited by gavias; 12-31-2011 at 07:46 AM.
12-31-2011, 09:28 PM #321
The only hassle with the crank tensioner is that the constant tension pull is more or less manual and not automatic.
12-31-2011, 09:57 PM #322
If you are a good stringer, it's not that big of a difference. The key is the stringer.
Personally, this Panda would use a crank over drop weight just because it saves time.
If you are used to crank machines, then it's not significant at all.
If Panda had to use a crank machine, he would just "overclock" it. Say Panda wants 30lbs. ECP, then he would go 34-35lbs. on a crank to get similar tension.
12-31-2011, 10:32 PM #323
- first of all, develop a constant and steady pull motion with your machine, which means that make sure every pull you are making is as the same as possible. You should be able to feel the higher tension when the "tension head (right term?)" is about to lock.
- with this repeatable motion in place, perform a good tension calibration with a good tension gauge and the same string as you are going to use.
NOW, here is the key: when you perform calibration, use the close-to-steady number on the gauge a few seconds AFTER the crank stopped!
for example, if you want 30 lbs, the gauge may say 35-36 lbs right after it locks. It will drop quickly and then slow down to a close-to-steady number. Calibrate the system to that number.
NOTE: this will be pending on your experience and speed of making the pull. Normally, a few trials and errors will be fine. ALSO, different string has different tension loss speed and amount. You will need experience to get a hang of them.
Hope this is useful.
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