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Thread: Why +2lbs On The Cross?
02-09-2007, 10:53 PM #86Originally Posted by Chilefeu
02-10-2007, 06:02 AM #87
As evidenced by Dinkalot as well as several other persons, adding 2 lbs is a good way to maintain the original shape of the racket.
Thus, based on this experiences, I played in tourney with BG-80 at 22X24.
Since I bought another Rasmussen TOUR, I was enabled to compare the unstrung racquet with my other strung racquet. The results were quite different. When compared the differences, just after having strung the racquet and after having played with it. This is what I observed :
When adding 0 lbs on the crosses :
- The racquet is a bit wider from 8 o'clock and 10 o'clock, and therefore a bit rounder. It seems to be less oval in fact.
- Also, the racquet is smaller in shape, between the top and the bottom.
- On the whole when I compare the strung one with my unstrung one, there is a noticeable frame distortion. The racquet tends not to be similar when compared with the unstrung racquet indeed .
- Presently, when I'm playing on courts, I found the racquet to be quite forgiving. (23X23) but nothing specials. No impressive sound, not very powerful ...
When adding 2 lbs on the crosses : ("10 % rule")
- The strung racquet is very similar to the unstrung one. If there is distortion, it should be so minimal that I couldn't even have noticed it.
- When I'm playing on courts, I found the racquet to be less forgiving, but I like the feel, the response, the power better . (at 22X24) The Sound also seemed to be louder.
The shuttle that was used was the same, (Mavis 370) and I was well resting So I was on top form.
- At last, I would like to say that adding 10 % tension on crosses helps having a more durable & efficient sweetspot. I believe I play longer, without feeling my string has became too loose or something like that. Therefore, I can wait a little longer before my next restringing.
To conclude, adding 2 lbs on every racquets is the way to go. To my mind It's better on the one hand for the racquet and on the other hand for the playability.
Let us consider you think your racquet is not very comfortable and not forgiving enough, then you should keep stringing with the "10 % rule" but simply decrease your tension
As for me, i'm gonna go training more now. Stringing method doesn't affect so much my game unfortunately. There is a lot to do apart of stringing. (learning and training for instance .)
02-10-2007, 01:45 PM #88
You are bang on with the +10% rule. Tension lasts a lot longer and more stable. Also, strings don't move a lot compared to even tension (main = cross).
02-11-2007, 01:52 AM #89
What happens if Main>Cross eg. 25/23 lbs?
Will the performance suffers?
Anyone care to shares?
02-11-2007, 04:28 AM #90Originally Posted by Pete LSD
On the opposite, if you use the "10 % rule", these string movements disappear almost completly. At 22X24, my string don't move .
Anyhow, on very high tensions, (>26 lbs.) I believe the string don't move at all, no matter if the "10 % rule" is applicated.
Furthermore, I would like to say that in order to be sure the string won't move at all on relatively low tensions, (<26 lbs.) it's good adding paint on the sweetsport of the racket. I have a yonex Inking with whom I paint the Carlton Logo on my rackets and it works fine
On top of that It adds grip to my string
Originally Posted by forumer
I don't know what are the consequences of such a method. I never strung my racquets this way. But anyway, I think It's very bad for the racquet since it could round off it.
I have no ideas of how could perform the racket though.
If my memory serves me well, taneepak wrote a message a few time ago explaining this method would distort a lot the racket frame.
You should do a search into the equipment forum.
The last point I shall want to underline is you're gonna lose tension in a month or so even if you add supplementary tension on the mains. I'm telling you that because you certainly want to prevent your string from looses its tension, right ?
In this case, It's better adding 2Lbs. on the cross strings as well as pre-stretching the string if you can. You won't be disappointed and obviously the racket will remain in good shape/conditions
02-11-2007, 09:15 AM #91Originally Posted by forumer
I liked the performance, but the crosses did move about a lot, and reduced the durability the friction of the crosses sliding on the mains eat into the crosses.
I ranged from 20x18 to 26x24 on Ti10,MP100,Carlton Airblade,Monsoon 3000.
I don't remember seeing much, if any, frame distortion.
The theory is that because the mains are longer, they need to be at higher tension to give a similar stiffness as the crosses.
It's easy to experiment when you string your own
02-11-2007, 09:17 AM #92Originally Posted by Pete LSD
I'm not, at the moment, arguing that it does, but I can't think of any reason why tension would last longer just because the crosses are tighter than the mains.
02-11-2007, 11:37 AM #93Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls
Mind explaining your choice.
02-11-2007, 12:00 PM #94Originally Posted by forumer
M>C meant restringing more often, and I don't want to do it too often.
my most recent stringing (last 6 months of 2006) for myself has been:
MicroLegend @ 20x21
MicroLegend @ 17x18
PG66 @ 16x18
PG66 @ 17x19
TecGut Tour @ 15x16
VS Touch @ 18x19
When I string for others I usually follow C=M+2
22x24 is the highest most people I string for go
02-11-2007, 02:27 PM #95
Maybe the cross tension stretch the main strings. Who knows? My conclusion is based on actual experimentation over a number of years of trial and error.
Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls
02-11-2007, 05:26 PM #96
Like Pete, I go with 10%. For me, it's a very good measurement and fast to calculate.
02-11-2007, 07:40 PM #97Originally Posted by Neil Nicholls
02-11-2007, 09:27 PM #98
Simple, Neil has elbow tennis .
Originally Posted by taneepak
02-12-2007, 12:14 PM #99Originally Posted by taneepak
02-12-2007, 02:51 PM #100Originally Posted by taneepak
I'm reluctant to string higehr than 24lbs because:
- more frequent breaking/mishit-breaks
-smaller sweetspot (not nice when it's 07:00 on mondaymorning)
-I don't want to adjust my game to my tension, but the other way around..
there're no universal standards for equipement preferences
02-12-2007, 06:46 PM #101Originally Posted by Pete LSD
As we should all know by now, technique is far more important than equipment.
(N.B. I'm not trying to say I have great technique, but I (as a veteran) have beaten county players, junior and senior, and have lost to older players with better technique and lesser fitness - with my extra flexible racquet, my next goal is to do it with my Yonex Iso MF60)
So what if the strings perform better at 26+ lb.
How much better exactly? 1% better, 10% better.
Which racquets perform better:
head-heavy or head-light?
stiff or flexible?
2U, 3U or 4U
Why doesn't everyone just use the best racquet?
02-12-2007, 10:19 PM #102
Well there is no better way to find out than the old fashion way-string one racquet at low tension and a similar one at 28/30.8lbs, both with Ashaway PG66. I can assure you the higher tensioned one will get the shuttle over to your opponent faster.
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