User Tag List

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 52 to 68 of 75
  1. #52
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    S.E.A
    Posts
    115
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Oh sorry. i was so excited i forgot about the grips. LOL. sorry. Okay, after putting back the grip, the balance point is about 356mm. the plastic that i found was quite heavy. =/ this racket was bought very long ago. and the racket head is made of steel.
    Last edited by Khawai; 05-21-2008 at 02:02 AM.

  2. #53
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    721
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I am quite skeptical on simply removing the plastic piece. It should not make a huge difference...

    I strongly believe if anyone were to remove the entire YONEX CAP at the bottom of the handle, it will make the racket very head heavy. But... without the cap at the bottom of the handle, you may risk slipping the racket out of your hands when smashing....

    Thanks.

  3. #54
    Regular Member jhirata's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand, New Z
    Posts
    2,487
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HKChua View Post
    I am quite skeptical on simply removing the plastic piece. It should not make a huge difference...

    I strongly believe if anyone were to remove the entire YONEX CAP at the bottom of the handle, it will make the racket very head heavy. But... without the cap at the bottom of the handle, you may risk slipping the racket out of your hands when smashing....

    Thanks.
    Haha but there's also a solution for that.. just thicken the end using some old replacement/original grip which is cut in half through the centre and roll it up at the bottom of the handle until the end's diameter is about 6mm thicker. But of course.. we still need to put some adhesive material onto the thickening strip to stop it from sliding.

    Well, here's an example of what I've done:


    And you know what.. thickening the end allows me to be confident that the racquet won't slip out of my hand, which allowed me to hold the racquet at the very end of the handle for smashing.. and it helped quite alot. Almost all the pro's do this too, ie: Lin Dan, Peter Gade, Lee Chong Wei, Kim Dong Moon, Shoji Sato.. etc.

  4. #55
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    6,527
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Making the handle heavy is easy. Making it light is more difficult but it can be done. You can DIY by taking off the butt cap and replacing it with a lighter one, taking off the plastic piece stuck on to the handle hole, drill the handle hole deeper to remove some wooden material. Drilling requires some common sense to avoid breaking the handle. The hole should be drilled with a drill bit with a slightly smaller diameter than the original hole. Make sure there are 3 roughly equal lengths in the wooden handle for the embedded shaft, the solid core in the centre, and the drilled hole at the butt end. All these are within the DIY mods.
    For the ultimate you will have to break the wooden handle and remove the handle and cone, and replace with a lighter new handle and cone. This is not an ordinary DIY job. You will have to get a good fit new handle of the right weight and size, a new cone, and mix your own glue (no epoxy or super glue).

  5. #56
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    S.E.A
    Posts
    115
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I have a question. Erm. How do you remove the plastic balast? cant seem to take it out in one of my rackets. =/

  6. #57
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    6,527
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Khawai View Post
    I have a question. Erm. How do you remove the plastic balast? cant seem to take it out in one of my rackets. =/
    If you can take out the butt cap, taking out the plastic ballast is a walk in the park.

  7. #58
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    721
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by taneepak View Post
    If you can take out the butt cap, taking out the plastic ballast is a walk in the park.
    But... taking out the plastic ballast will weaken the structure of the hollow handle. By inserting the plastic ballast, it will reinforce the hollow edges when forces were applied when smashing...

    Thanks.

  8. #59
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    6,527
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HKChua View Post
    But... taking out the plastic ballast will weaken the structure of the hollow handle. By inserting the plastic ballast, it will reinforce the hollow edges when forces were applied when smashing...

    Thanks.
    Not really, the tunnel hole can be a few inches deep and is used to break up vibrations as well. The plastic ballast is no more than 8mm deep and is not bonded to the hole for reinforcement. Other manufacturers use rubber ballasts that can be as long as 60mm, which serve no purpose other than as counter weight or ballast. It is the butt cap that reinforces the end of the handle.
    The tunnel in the wooden handle serves to break up vibrations too.

  9. #60
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    721
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by taneepak View Post
    Not really, the tunnel hole can be a few inches deep and is used to break up vibrations as well. The plastic ballast is no more than 8mm deep and is not bonded to the hole for reinforcement. Other manufacturers use rubber ballasts that can be as long as 60mm, which serve no purpose other than as counter weight or ballast. It is the butt cap that reinforces the end of the handle.
    The tunnel in the wooden handle serves to break up vibrations too.
    Simple experiment is to apply force to bottom of the handle with and without the plastic ballast in the lab. You will realize that with the plastic ballast inserted into the hole, the wooden handle will subject to more force before collapsing...

    Thanks.

  10. #61
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Hong Kong
    Posts
    6,527
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HKChua View Post
    Simple experiment is to apply force to bottom of the handle with and without the plastic ballast in the lab. You will realize that with the plastic ballast inserted into the hole, the wooden handle will subject to more force before collapsing...

    Thanks.
    This should be done with the butt cap on. FYI the handle end is in some sort of free space with the butt cap, and it is the butt cap that is held on to the handle with 4 staples about 15mm from the handle end. The reinforcement comes from the staples/handle 15mm from the handle end plus the close contact of the inner side of the butt cap with the handle end. The plastic ballast has no role other than as a counter weight. As a matter of fact older Yonex racquets have loose plastic ballasts that were held together by a single staple, and other manufacturers use a rubber ballast that are very loose and are held together by one to two staples.
    The weakest part of the handle is the other end, the cone/handle end. This is where the greatest force of the stroke is transmitted down the shaft, and the longer the shaft the more vulnerable this part is.

  11. #62
    Regular Member jhirata's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Wellington, New Zealand, New Z
    Posts
    2,487
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Comparison, top = NS7700, bottom = AT700 :


    Notice how the hole is much much much deeper on the AT700, compared to the one on the NS7700's handle. Maybe that's why the AT700 is so much head-heavier.

    MusclePower40 - headlight, so the hole is not deep:


    I've removed the ballast on both the AT700 and the MP40 to see how much head-heavier they'd become.
    On the AT700, the balance point increased from 31.0cm ( with grip ) to 31.5cm and on the MP40, the balance point increased from 28.7cm to 29.9cm. ( Both racquets have a single layer of tape from the 9 o'clock position to the 3 o'clock position. )
    The MP40 is not even head-light anymore, it's leaning more towards head-heavy~even balanced.

    I'm worried however that by removing the plastic ballast out of the handle, the handle might have become more fragile.

  12. #63
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    411
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I have removed the plastic ballast from AT500 handle over a year ago. At the time, I was simply looking for a way to reduce the total weight of the racket, without consideration of the balance. No sign of damage on the butt-end of the handle, but the cone did loosen a few month ago, which was easily fixed with super glue. Unfortunately the frame cracked recently, so I no longer use this racket. I am pretty abusive with this racket, but the handle is fine.

    I also remove the plastic ballast from my Carbonex 8000 light. Again, it was solely for the purpose of reducing weight, I don't like how heavy it felt, even though it was a 3u racket. But then I always use overgrip, so maybe removing the ballast is good for counteracting the balance change from using overgrip.

    jhirata, I'm curious as to how you removed the ballast from your rackets. When I removed mine, I did it by drilling down the ballast, and pulling pieces out bit by bit. Seemed impossible to pull the whole piece out at once.

  13. #64
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    B.Gombak- Singapore
    Posts
    1,610
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default



    Please show us the ballast.

  14. #65
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    721
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheGr8Two View Post
    ... I'm curious as to how you removed the ballast from your rackets. When I removed mine, I did it by drilling down the ballast, and pulling pieces out bit by bit. Seemed impossible to pull the whole piece out at once.
    Well... I simply use the point edge of a scissors and dig it out from the edges of the ballast from my Arc Saber 10... The entire ballast is intact.

    Thanks.

  15. #66
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    B.Gombak- Singapore
    Posts
    1,610
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HKChua View Post
    Well... I simply use the point edge of a scissors and dig it out from the edges of the ballast from my Arc Saber 10... The entire ballast is intact.

    Thanks.

    Please show us the ballast.

  16. #67
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    721
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SpendorK View Post
    Please show us the ballast.
    I had put it back, crossed the base with 2 strips of my grip (to prevent it from dropping out), another round of grip at the edge of the handle base (to create a small hump), and stapled all the four side, before applying my grip.

    I could not transfer my images from my NOKIA to my computer now... Well.... it looks quite adequate, will test it out tomorrow and let you now the result. If the result is acceptable, I will remove the lead strips of the other Arc Saber 10 which I will be using it as a control to test out the result.

    Thanks.

  17. #68
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    B.Gombak- Singapore
    Posts
    1,610
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Ok, Thanks

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Way to make bmt shoes retain their grip?
    By Skirmisher in forum Grip
    Replies: 3
    : 10-29-2008, 11:51 AM
  2. Ways to make my grip sticky?
    By OHMAHGAWDZ in forum Grip
    Replies: 14
    : 03-12-2008, 10:21 AM
  3. How to make a better grip?
    By rayraymond in forum Grip
    Replies: 17
    : 08-17-2006, 11:27 AM
  4. how to make towel grip
    By bigredlemon in forum Grip
    Replies: 4
    : 03-21-2003, 01:44 AM
  5. How to make a racket grip bigger?
    By ALI in forum Grip
    Replies: 3
    : 07-06-2002, 10:32 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •