# Thread: 4 knot, 2 knot or is there 3 knot?

2 Main tie off.
1 cross start.
1 cross tie off.

2. sorry bro, i'm a noob at this. Reading for knowledge purpose.

Question : since there is a cross start, shouldn't we have a 'main start' too?

3. No problem. I was a noob too.

Main starts in the middle. (don't need a knot)
Therefore, you need to tie a knot at the end. In this case, 2 main tie off. (2 knots)

4. Pictures worth a thousand word.
http://www.stevecowley.com/stuff/images/figure2.jpg

Here is how to start the main.

5. Originally Posted by syncer
sorry bro, i'm a noob at this. Reading for knowledge purpose.

Question : since there is a cross start, shouldn't we have a 'main start' too?
This is a very good question because the correct use of the starting knot, only for the crosses, is fundamental to optimal playability.
To prevent frame distortion, the mains must be strung and tension first, and it must be strung from the middle towards the sides alternately. This method precludes the use of a starting knot, physically impossibe, and therefore results in two tie-off knots at the bottom grommets #8.
The next sequence is to string the crosses. There are three main methods to do this, two involving the use of a starting knot and the third option the use of two tie-off knots. As the top half of the stringbed is your real "battle ground", string tension in this area must be the tightest. Being nearer to the top, where the crosses are shorter than at the lower frame, the optimal minimal tension-holding knot, a starting knot, should be at the top frame. A starting knot must be large enough to prevent the knot from slipping into the grommet. Using a tie-off knot as a starting knot defeats the purpose of this very important knot. So is using the starting knot at the bottom frame, because that will only result in a reversal of the playability of the sweetspot. The option of stringing the crosses from the middle and working towards the top and bottom precludes the use of a starting knot, and the only knots you can use are two finishing tie-offs. This option is used by stringers, who have no confidence in using the starting knot at the top, when stringing at very high tensions.

6. Originally Posted by taneepak
The option of stringing the crosses from the middle and working towards the top and bottom precludes the use of a starting knot, and the only knots you can use are two finishing tie-offs. This option is used by stringers, who have no confidence in using the starting knot at the top, when stringing at very high tensions.
In the real world, a lot of things work in theory, might not be the best choice in reality.

Us as stringers, will not only deal with brand new well made rackets, but also need to work on a lot of super beat up ones. To minimize the risk of racket breakage (most time, it's not the stringer's fault), string cross from the middle (especially with high tension and/or poor condition rackets) is the safe choice.

7. Also, every stringer has he/her own best practice. What works best for a stringer with his/her machine might not work well for another one. In theory, every stringer should have use a ES5Pro and string top down 2 piece. However, I don't have the money to make the theory happen.

8. Actually you don't need an expensive stringing machine to string at very high tension, using a starting knot on the first cross string at the top. All you need is a 6-point machine and they can be a low budget machine. The key is to not stretch the frame or to use any load-spreaders. With this in mind, the frame should tend towards slightly round after stringing the mains-this is important if you are to start stringing the crosses from the top at very high tension. For the ultimate in playability, the tension on the first cross should not be less than the tension of the crosses at the bottom half of the frame except for the last cross. Using a lower tension for the first two crosses than the remaining crosses will degrade the playability. There is nothing to fear about using the same tension for the first two crosses as the remaining crosses, provided you have a slightly round frame after the mains have been strung. This round frame is your cushion and passport to safe stringing of the crosses at very high tension. If the frame is not rounder then you string the crosses at very high tensions at your own risk.

9. a cushion that regularly says 'crack', or at our tensions "bang"...

I've had it happen three times now, and not one with bottom-up...

Am I the only one here who sometimes gets a bit...tired.. of hearing every stringer here say that their method is superior to all others?
... I guess that's the nature of the internet...

10. I second what you said, Dr. J!
Just do what ever works best for you. I only do it with TLC on every racquet I string (except the time with fishing line)

11. Originally Posted by jerby
a cushion that regularly says 'crack', or at our tensions "bang"...

I've had it happen three times now, and not one with bottom-up...

Am I the only one here who sometimes gets a bit...tired.. of hearing every stringer here say that their method is superior to all others?
... I guess that's the nature of the internet...

I second that....To each his own...share with us but dont condemn us...

12. Originally Posted by silentheart
I second what you said, Dr. J!
Just do what ever works best for you. I only do it with TLC on every racquet I string (except the time with fishing line)
i am no good in stringing.
what is the most important, i can play good even with fishing line.......

13. Geeezzz, 'bang' and 'crack' are horrifying sounds .

Originally Posted by jerby
a cushion that regularly says 'crack', or at our tensions "bang"...

I've had it happen three times now, and not one with bottom-up...

Am I the only one here who sometimes gets a bit...tired.. of hearing every stringer here say that their method is superior to all others?
... I guess that's the nature of the internet...

14. Yeah, for very high tension like 33 lbs. I do hybrid top down:

1. I start near the bottom of the frame and work my way up just before the shared grommets near the top of the frame. The two ends are secured with two starting clamps (one starting clamp per end).
2. From there on, I start the cross from the top. Works so far.
It's a pain in the butt to string but no breakage so far with this method at 33 lbs.

Originally Posted by LazyBuddy
In the real world, a lot of things work in theory, might not be the best choice in reality.

Us as stringers, will not only deal with brand new well made rackets, but also need to work on a lot of super beat up ones. To minimize the risk of racket breakage (most time, it's not the stringer's fault), string cross from the middle (especially with high tension and/or poor condition rackets) is the safe choice.

15. yeah, crack is never good

now, to all you naysayers eat this!
a 3-knot! HA!

16. Are we seeing things here ?

Originally Posted by jerby
yeah, crack is never good

now, to all you naysayers eat this!
a 3-knot! HA!

17. Originally Posted by jerby

Am I the only one here who sometimes gets a bit...tired.. of hearing every stringer here say that their method is superior to all others?
... I guess that's the nature of the internet...

Don't want a good thread turning into finger pointing, but I have to agree with Jerby here.

To me, if someone claim that his/her work is the best, he needs to have a lot of data (string quality with different method) to compare with.

However, mr. Taneepak claims that all his work are wonderful and never broke anything. Therefore, makes me wonder, that if none of your previous work are "less perfect", how you claim you current practice are the "best"?

My theory is, things are not "better" if others are not worse. Things are not worse, if others are about the same.

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