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  1. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by LazyBuddy View Post
    Don't want a good thread turning into finger pointing, but I have to agree with Jerby here.

    To me, if someone claim that his/her work is the best, he needs to have a lot of data (string quality with different method) to compare with.

    However, mr. Taneepak claims that all his work are wonderful and never broke anything. Therefore, makes me wonder, that if none of your previous work are "less perfect", how you claim you current practice are the "best"?

    My theory is, things are not "better" if others are not worse. Things are not worse, if others are about the same.
    Tish Tish...it is a heavy load to bear being Perfect...

  2. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerby View Post
    a cushion that regularly says 'crack', or at our tensions "bang"...

    I've had it happen three times now, and not one with bottom-up...

    Am I the only one here who sometimes gets a bit...tired.. of hearing every stringer here say that their method is superior to all others?
    ... I guess that's the nature of the internet...

    EDIT: and then to add... I still have no idea what your (taneepak) gripe is against loadspreaders...
    Yes, it is true that stringing the crosses from the bottom or stringing the conventional one pc is safer. That is because the top half, which is the part you want the tightest tension in the stringbed, is a bit limp, made worse over time by the tension-loosening of the tie-off knot used at the top. Perhaps you are not mounting your frame properly-the positions of the side supports, especially the two bottom side supports, are critical.
    Load-spreaders resist the deformation of the top part of the frame towards a rounder frame when stringing the mains. Their greater area contact makes it worse. The frame need to be deformed towards a rounder shape by about 5mm (the whole racquet will be 5mm shorter) after the mains are strung. It is this 5mm extra cushion or spring that comes in handy when you string the crosses from the top. When the crosses are completed the racquet should stretch back by 5mm to revert back to its original length.
    BTW, I am sure many players and/or stringers here have tried both the top or bottom first cross stringing at high tension. How about giving us your honest opinions on the difference in playability. I hope your dislike for my personal opinions will not colour your honest judgement. Let us be objective.

  3. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete LSD View Post
    Yeah, for very high tension like 33 lbs. I do hybrid top down:

    1. I start near the bottom of the frame and work my way up just before the shared grommets near the top of the frame. The two ends are secured with two starting clamps (one starting clamp per end).
    2. From there on, I start the cross from the top. Works so far.
    It's a pain in the butt to string but no breakage so far with this method at 33 lbs.
    This is an innovative way to set your mind at ease and still enjoy the ultimate playability of how a properly strung racquet is capable of. Perhaps others can use this method. All it needs are two starting clamps and a little extra time.

  4. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by taneepak View Post
    Yes, it is true that stringing the crosses from the bottom or stringing the conventional one pc is safer. That is because the top half, which is the part you want the tightest tension in the stringbed, is a bit limp, made worse over time by the tension-loosening of the tie-off knot used at the top. Perhaps you are not mounting your frame properly-the positions of the side supports, especially the two bottom side supports, are critical.
    Load-spreaders resist the deformation of the top part of the frame towards a rounder frame when stringing the mains. Their greater area contact makes it worse. The frame need to be deformed towards a rounder shape by about 5mm (the whole racquet will be 5mm shorter) after the mains are strung. It is this 5mm extra cushion or spring that comes in handy when you string the crosses from the top. When the crosses are completed the racquet should stretch back by 5mm to revert back to its original length.
    BTW, I am sure many players and/or stringers here have tried both the top or bottom first cross stringing at high tension. How about giving us your honest opinions on the difference in playability. I hope your dislike for my personal opinions will not colour your honest judgement. Let us be objective.
    I think it would be very hard to judge which method of stringing plays best...the small difference would hardly be noticeable to the average player...
    Here in Vietnam we use the 2 knot method with crosses 1 pound higher and personally I have yet to break a racket even when stringing at 17 kilo (8 pt stringer)....Some of the rackets
    we string look like they just came through a war...these we never string over 10kilo....maybe the 2 knot method is safer??? I really dont know???
    But it does seem to work well...The under 17 Denmark champion is the son of my friend and he uses the 2 knot method....He also strings the center 8 cross and mains at 1 pound higher tension. This is his personal method...If one has a lot of time to string a racket then the 4 knot method might play best but here where we string so many rackets everyday we just could not take the extra time...I still can not find the article on stringing Muscle Power frames...This article I am sure recommended 2 knot for MP frames...This could have been an article from who knows where so without finding it I just have to say that it makes sense that MP frames would be strung by different method....anyway, to each his own....

  5. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dream Hai View Post
    I think it would be very hard to judge which method of stringing plays best...the small difference would hardly be noticeable to the average player...
    Here in Vietnam we use the 2 knot method with crosses 1 pound higher and personally I have yet to break a racket even when stringing at 17 kilo (8 pt stringer)....Some of the rackets
    we string look like they just came through a war...these we never string over 10kilo....maybe the 2 knot method is safer??? I really dont know???
    But it does seem to work well...The under 17 Denmark champion is the son of my friend and he uses the 2 knot method....He also strings the center 8 cross and mains at 1 pound higher tension. This is his personal method...If one has a lot of time to string a racket then the 4 knot method might play best but here where we string so many rackets everyday we just could not take the extra time...I still can not find the article on stringing Muscle Power frames...This article I am sure recommended 2 knot for MP frames...This could have been an article from who knows where so without finding it I just have to say that it makes sense that MP frames would be strung by different method....anyway, to each his own....
    Yes, I don't disagree that each stringer has his or her own method. FYI, I do string one-pc 2 knots, but only with non-branded strings and at very low costs for students. I charge these students HK$50, using one-pc and at low tensions. BTW, for the same tension one-pc, 2 knots, seems to have a longer playing life. For adults who are after a bargain I string BG65 at 3 prices with different methods. For HK$55, I string BG65 using one-pc, two knots, at not more than 22lbs. Upto to 25lbs I charge then HK$60 BG65 one pc. Anything above 25lbs I charge them HK$65, using 2-pc, 4-knots, crosses from the top.
    For NBG98 I charge HK$130, 2-pc, 4-knots, crosses from the top.
    Any racquet, including MP series, can be strung with different methods.
    For professional stringers with high turnover, the use of a 2-point holddown machine, using one-pc, 2-knots is the best. That is for business.
    Your friend's preference of tighter tensions on the principle plain of the stringbed is a very good way to improve playability. Better still if he can move the tighter tension crosses slightly higher to the top by another 2 to 3 crosses above the current ones, giving him a total of 10 to 11 higher tensioned crosses.

  6. #57
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    Hi to all,

    Does anyone heard of 6 knots stringing, becouse I saw this on few racquets. This method gives any advantage or the only advantage goes to stringer who have left overs of string pieces not good for 2 piece or one piece method?

  7. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mantas View Post
    Hi to all,

    Does anyone heard of 6 knots stringing, becouse I saw this on few racquets. This method gives any advantage or the only advantage goes to stringer who have left overs of string pieces not good for 2 piece or one piece method?
    I only know 2 or 4 knot stringing but 6 knots?

  8. #59
    Moderator drifit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mantas View Post
    Hi to all,

    Does anyone heard of 6 knots stringing, becouse I saw this on few racquets. This method gives any advantage or the only advantage goes to stringer who have left overs of string pieces not good for 2 piece or one piece method?
    Quote Originally Posted by phandrew View Post
    I only know 2 or 4 knot stringing but 6 knots?
    maybe the stringer pull the string and break it..........
    end up, patching........

  9. #60
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drifit View Post
    maybe the stringer pull the string and break it..........
    end up, patching........
    I've also seen this done by (bad) stringers who mis-judged the lengths of string needed and had to add an extra cross.

  10. #61
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    You can have 8 knots where you have 2 knots for each quarter of the racket
    Last edited by phandrew; 07-17-2008 at 08:30 AM.

  11. #62
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    I will check pattern next time I see this racket. But maybe this is something to do with central mains strung at higher tension and tied?

  12. #63
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    Take a picture and post it on the forum so we can see it as well.

  13. #64
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    Anything more than 4 knots is a bit extreme for me .

  14. #65
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    Am I right that the 2 knots stringing method mentioned above is not Gosen method or the Haribito method?

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