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  1. #35
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    What does the X in the DDMMYXCC stand for?

  2. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackvictor View Post
    What does the X in the DDMMYXCC stand for?
    It's bene mentioned before on the forums before.

    X is sort of unknown however it's possibly the batch number.

  3. #37
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    sorry but how do you read the date for 2010 since the Y is only one digit

  4. #38
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    I would also like to know what the serial number should be for 2010 produced rackets, since my friend got a Arcsaber 8DX and the code is 170202TW and the front page says 0 is fake...

  5. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by StrikeGX View Post
    sorry but how do you read the date for 2010 since the Y is only one digit
    Quote Originally Posted by Fauxs View Post
    I would also like to know what the serial number should be for 2010 produced rackets, since my friend got a Arcsaber 8DX and the code is 170202TW and the front page says 0 is fake...
    As you can see the guide was written in 2008. The writer and many others expected a new format for 2010 but this turned out to not be the case. Y for 2010 = 0. You can still tell the difference between 2000 and 2010 because the serial numbers still run consecutively ...

  6. #40
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    I got an Armortec 300 at badminton alley, not sure whether or not it is real. It seems real in every aspect except that when I asked the stringer to string it at 24 pounds, she seemed unsure and told me that the higher the tension, the lower the power and made me string it at 23. What do you guys think

  7. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by noobyo View Post
    I got an Armortec 300 at badminton alley, not sure whether or not it is real. It seems real in every aspect except that when I asked the stringer to string it at 24 pounds, she seemed unsure and told me that the higher the tension, the lower the power and made me string it at 23. What do you guys think
    Badminton alley is 100% legit. I've been do their (small) store and bought things there. The stringer seems a little suspicious to me...theres nothing wrong with stringing at higher tensions, I mean, you shouldn't get a response like, "OMG REALLY? THAT TENSION IS SO HIGH.", after asking for 24lbs. I've done 26lbs (and MANY OTHER people have gone way above), and it is definitely not something to be contemplated about...maybe stringer was just afraid of breaking the frame, since yonex rackets don't warranty their rackets at high* tensions.

  8. #42
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    It is true, however, the higher the tension, the lower the power.

    I'm wondering if the older rackets follow the same guide lines for spotting a fake. I was never in any doubt, that my old Aerotus 65 was authentic, but I don't see any serial # on the shaft and the serial # is only a 5 digit number. I purchased this racket in the early 90's - probably '91, or '92. Despite being that old having been played with countless times, it's still in very good shape. All the graphics and lettering are still very clear and nice looking. My wife has this old racket that she bought in the Philippines and it was supposed to be a Yonex Ti8, but I thought it was curious, that her racket is only half as old as the Aerotus 65, but 95% or the graphics and writing is gone. You can still see some faded stuff on it, but nothing legible. That and the suspicious 3 digit "SP" serial number have me figuring it's a fake. I really think the Aerotus is authentic, though.

  9. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by demolidor View Post
    As you can see the guide was written in 2008. The writer and many others expected a new format for 2010 but this turned out to not be the case. Y for 2010 = 0. You can still tell the difference between 2000 and 2010 because the serial numbers still run consecutively ...
    So, if I find a racquet with the code 171109JP, which year is it made in? 2010 or 2000? And what do you mean by "serial numbers run consecutively.? Also, how do I check the racquet for genuiness from the number on the shaft?? Are the number from the cone, and the shaft related?.. Do reply... thanks..

  10. #44
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    Hi members,
    Can some kind souls enlighten me?
    In the weekend, I bought 1 pcs of AT700 Old Color, which I spotted and bought as these days it's rare to see a old color AT700 retailing in the shop. The retails shop which I bought from is definitely a legit shop in S'pore and the owner told me that this AT700 has no distribution code and these rackets are meant for player (which I guess national players). It also has the standard Singapore distributor's label covering the cone serial no.
    When I take a swing at the new racket (not played in the court yet), I could feel that it is more heavier than the IP one I got. Hope someone can give me a clue.

    Cheers,
    eptan

  11. #45
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    can i make a video tutorial on this?..with the help n permission from the experts of course
    Last edited by faizyusof94; 04-26-2011 at 11:28 AM. Reason: typo

  12. #46
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    nowsdays nothings can be trust...even the yonex retailer is fake...!!
    i think its just need to overcome our emotion
    once u bought it then just use it and dont compare...focus on ur skill and game and of focus to master ur new racket.
    only god know if its fake or not....these ppl will be punish..
    for you to enjoy ur baddy...continue using it and seeing ur idol using the same racket as urs to motivate urself to improve ur game level...

    have fun in ur baddy and dont dance to the fakeness of ur racket u just bought...
    u will be much happy to enjoy ur baddy that way...

  13. #47
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    agreed, but when we pay a lot for a racket, we must be expecting genuine racket as we pay with 'genuine' amount of money. somehow we must check the genuineness of our racket and take further action so the fake retailer wont cheating around freely, unchecked.

    plus, when we want to sell our used racket in the future, we know that we are selling genuine stuff (thus higher price we can get)..
    Last edited by LightSaber; 05-17-2011 at 08:26 AM.

  14. #48
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    When he said there is no distribution code. You need to ask to pill off the sticker to verify the cone code. If the racquet has SP painted on the shaft with any other distribution code. Then it has a problem. Even if it for national player, it has distribution code.
    Check if the racquet is 3U. You might be used to 4U already and feel the racquet is heavier. Or may be the string is different.
    Quote Originally Posted by eptan View Post
    Hi members,
    Can some kind souls enlighten me?
    In the weekend, I bought 1 pcs of AT700 Old Color, which I spotted and bought as these days it's rare to see a old color AT700 retailing in the shop. The retails shop which I bought from is definitely a legit shop in S'pore and the owner told me that this AT700 has no distribution code and these rackets are meant for player (which I guess national players). It also has the standard Singapore distributor's label covering the cone serial no.
    When I take a swing at the new racket (not played in the court yet), I could feel that it is more heavier than the IP one I got. Hope someone can give me a clue.

    Cheers,
    eptan

  15. #49
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    Many manufacturers will do very realistic fake, you say they can do not distinguish between these, then how to do it?

  16. #50
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    Hi guys, I recently bought a ArmorTec 900 Power Lee Chong Wei model from datawan Pahlawan in malacca. I bought it at RM259 but after A while I noticed some very small dots of black paint on the bright orange finish near the built in T-joint. Serials are laser engraved but stickers are peeling off. There is also smell of paint near the head, particularly at the black paint finish.It also carry a SP code. It's a 3UG4, 19 to 24 lbs. I highly suspect this racket to be a fake, but still not quite sure as this is my first time paying that much for a racket. Someone please enlighten me!

  17. #51
    Regular Member demolidor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CloudDevelic View Post
    Hi guys, I recently bought a ArmorTec 900 Power Lee Chong Wei model from datawan Pahlawan in malacca. I bought it at RM259 but after A while I noticed some very small dots of black paint on the bright orange finish near the built in T-joint. Serials are laser engraved but stickers are peeling off. There is also smell of paint near the head, particularly at the black paint finish.It also carry a SP code. It's a 3UG4, 19 to 24 lbs. I highly suspect this racket to be a fake, but still not quite sure as this is my first time paying that much for a racket. Someone please enlighten me!
    Even that much, is still only half or less than half than the original price ...

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