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01-11-2009, 07:56 PM #18
I had no problem with dental floss or awl or string mover. But now I have been pre-weaving all my rackets before tensioning. Problem solved.
Kong-19 showed me another way, that's by using a cutter to slice the string very thin. Point the cutter about 120 to 160 degree and slice the string about 3cm applying more pressure at the end. The result is a very close to having a dental floss. This takes a bit practising.
01-11-2009, 08:28 PM #19
Good points ... heat is the violent killer for our badminton rackets/strings. Especially when you have U-grommets on your racket frame around the T-joint area. There is so much air friction generated when an elite player with super wrist snap makes a swing that it can be theorized the U-grommets heat up inexplicably and transfers to the string run through them. Premature string breakage will be evident. Low-level players who cannot generate this amount of wrist snap will not be able to create enough air drag friction on the U-grommets so they won't need to worry about this phenomenon.
Likewise, once you have the racket strung up on the frame, under no circumstance shall you bring it with you on a plane. The air pressure created at high altitude acts directly upon the prestrung racket at a molecular level causing heat build-up which in turn could transfers to the string bed. You've been warned.
That being said, turbo stringers generate the most heat of all. Usually the pressure being built-up in the turbines upon a stringing session is so great that at times, smoke can almost be seen coming off the cross strings as they're ripped through the grommets. Next time you drop off your racket at your local shop, always ask whether the stringer is turbocharged, supercharged, or naturally aspirated. The latter is usually slower however it results in better durability due to the absence of force induction.
Note to self: next time I visit my dentist, I need to have him thoroughly inspect my teeth for deterioration. I feel there is friction when I run the dental floss through which must be generating heat. I'm worried ...
01-11-2009, 08:56 PM #20
01-11-2009, 11:11 PM #21
01-12-2009, 07:17 AM #22
Of course you can preweave the string to save the trouble of having to fight through those tricky shared grommets. But preweaving somewhat restricts the free movement of the crosses. Without preweaving, you have the advantage of a very long "free end" of the cross string which ensures you have a laser-like alignment of the crosses without the slightest twisting or kinking of the cross string from beginning to end. This will result in more uniform flex of the crosses because at every intersection of a shared grommet, the crosses are in one alignment. With preweaving, it is unlikely you can have such "straight as an arrow" path of the crosses.
01-12-2009, 01:06 PM #23
What a tool was originally invented for, has nothing to do whether you can effectly use it for 2nd kind of usage. There are noodle makers using 2 thin blades chopping noodles from their head, and they did not bleed to death, but effectively increased their speed and noodle's quality. Of course, such attempt is not meant for general joe doe, who has no experience or training. But you can not use "traditional" to conclude whether something is "do able" for others, by your own theory and standard.
Personally, I've strung over 500 rackets, and none of the rackets die on the spot and over 99.999% of the string breakage (after reasonal time of usage) breaks in a reasonable spot, or due to other reasons. Very seldom, a custom brings back a racket with string broken around shared gromments. Even so, they usually admit they tend to use the racket to scoop up shuttles from hardwood type of floors. Therefore, this is a good proof of my careful usage of awl contribute almost none damage to the string, when you compare to normal usage (thunderous smashes by players, etc ). The string will 99.9% break normally, way before any "shared string" effect even kicking in place.
There's no point to continue this argument. If you believe anything "in theory" can do such and such damage, you should never even string a racket to begin with. Even a perfect string job will add "potential" damage and wear & tear to your racket frame, as well as string or gromment itself.
01-12-2009, 01:09 PM #24
I have a one word solution for this:-
01-12-2009, 01:09 PM #25
01-12-2009, 01:17 PM #26
My method is to use a non-sharp awl (good luck if you can use this kind to dig a hole in a leather, if you want to try ), gentle insert and exit of the shared gromments in a gentle movement. No shake or bending when the tip is inside the gromment. Then, use a nail cutter, to cut the cross string tip to be sharp (very small angle preferred), and use this piece to go through the shared gromment. There's never a moment of 2 pieces string and awl tip all inside gromment to begin with.
01-12-2009, 01:21 PM #27
I think LB hit the nail on the head. I mean think of baking soda, and its numerous uses. Now think of its original use, which was baking. You cant say a specific item or tool will always result in xyz results. As LB has proven, there is more than one way to 'sheer a sheep.'
01-12-2009, 02:45 PM #28
01-13-2009, 12:07 AM #29
01-13-2009, 02:05 AM #30
By the number of responses, the majority of stringers have no problem with using their chosen methods to get the cross string through the shared grommets.
01-13-2009, 09:02 AM #31
In theory, that's correct.
However, if everything goes with theory, then any current string machine in the market is very bad for the string job, as we can only tension 1 piece at a time, therefore, create un-even force during the process. The "best machine" in theory, should have 44 (assume 22 main, 22 cross) tension head, and pull every single piece all together. Oh, well, then you can argue about the knots...
My conclusion is, in theory, there's always trade offs. You gain some, you lose some. The acceptable method is the ones give you more gains, and omit the losses. There's no perfect solution. Including your string mover method.
By using string mover, I can argue you pull the existing string which cause un-even force, and additional fricition, which also generates heat, as well as enlarge the gromments at the same time. Just the same argument as you are against other method.
01-13-2009, 09:53 AM #32
01-14-2009, 06:06 AM #33
Yeah, I agree that when the awl is improperly used ie. people just jam it in, it not only damages the other shared string by mechanical pressure, it can also damage the frame if the graphite is pushed outwards if excessive force is used. That said, gentle use of the awl can't be that bad, and if it works, go for it.
As for the string mover, it's quite useless @ 33+ lbs and it might even add more stress and damage to both string and frame if used! My string mover and awl both collect dust as I'm sticking to the good old fashioned slow method of making a pointed tip to pass through a shared grommet and it has never failed on my yet! Just go with a method that can do some quality jobs and stick to it.
As long as you're not TURBO ripping strings through the mains and crosses, you should be OK. After stringing for awhile + watching and learning from others, I'm pretty scared of people who can string in 30 minutes or less.
Last edited by Optiblue; 01-14-2009 at 06:10 AM.
01-14-2009, 11:46 AM #34
in theory a bumble bee cannot fly
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