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  1. #409
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    nice write-up

    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot View Post
    The fact of the matter is, some people will desire the original specs but in reality, almost no one can wield it. It's too demanding and fatigue sets in fast. Case and point, even Halim Haryanto Ho said it was a great racket but very demanding and he would get tired fast. And Halim "only" hit with an 86.0g BP290 version.

    The new Ultra will be very stiff but not as demanding and overall, play much better.

    The main point is, would you rather hit 100% for 90 or 100 swings or 80% for 500 swings? Most will prefer the latter.

    Comparing the AT700 85g, BP310 to the Ultra, 87g, BP295, for Panda, here's roughly what happens:

    AT700:
    Swing 50% my max results in 70% racket potential
    Swing 70% my max results in 90% racket potential
    Swing 85% my max results in 100% racket potential
    Swing 100% my max results in 120% racket potential, overstressing it

    Ultra:
    Swing 50% my max results in 35% racket potential
    Swing 70% my max results in 60% racket potential
    Swing 85% my max results in 85% racket potential
    Swing 100% my max results in 100%-105% racket potential

    But when do you get to swing 100% in a game and how often? How often does the opponent give you a straight lift? All things to consider.

    Finally, and I guess this should be in another post altogether, to find the ideal attacking racket (assuming all other factors are equal) is to find one where the effort you put in yields more than the racket's potential, to the point where your 100% smash does not overstress the racket, at least not too much.

    What you prefer, what you can handle, and what is most effective maybe three different things. Ideally, you want all three but usually that's not the case. So, go for two out of three, what you prefer and what is most effective.

    If it's the worst case scenario and you can only do one, most people go for what's most effective. Then there are others who cannot or will not compromise and play with what they prefer first and foremost, regardless of the outcome. This works for pros because they are elite and confidence and consistency is more important than anything else. But for us recreational players, most effective maybe the best followed by what you prefer.

    How do you find out what's best for you, experiment and you'll start to notice. Ideally, find a coach or someone knowledgeable, they can tell you, if you're truly willing to listen.

    I know this one young man, 19, up and coming, played a couple of years, about a "D" level. He used 30lbs. string tension and a 2U racket. His form was terrible mostly due to the racket and string tension. He would loop and whip the racket because the string was too tight and the racket too heavy. I got to know this person and told him he could improve half a level just by changing his equipment. He was so excited until I told him to go to an 86g racket and 24lbs. string tension. He was so upset, he didn't want to do it. But after doing so, with about a month adjustment period, he played so much better and his form was better too because he didn't have to use so much effort to move the racket and flex the string.

    Last but not least, as I've said (closing in on a hundred times) before, it's all relative.

  2. #410
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    Wow , the Pandas seem to leave even Yonex trailing far far behind ! Would it be possible to have a 100 % unbiased and objective review ???

  3. #411
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    I Agree with Panda’s assessment!!!

    Your racket/s should compliment your playing style, your swing stroke, and most importantly give you better output potential.


    Key is “Most Effective maybe the best followed by what you prefer.” – DinkAlot

  4. #412
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    Wow, now I can explain why I use a 77g racket and play better than most players.

    For me,
    50% swing = 75% potential
    75% swing = 95% potential
    100% swing = 120% potential (racket breaks)
    *I've broken a few due to over-powering smashes.
    Luckly, my game is always in the 75% swing range.

    I love ultra-light rackets, won't get tired as easily.

    Thank Panda for the detailed explanation.
    Last edited by Viper2005; 08-05-2009 at 11:52 PM.

  5. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koolsan View Post
    Wow , the Pandas seem to leave even Yonex trailing far far behind ! Would it be possible to have a 100 % unbiased and objective review ???
    Actually, the comparison makes the Ultra look bad and the AT700 look good. It takes less effort to maximize the AT700.

    And no, there's no such thing as a 100% unbiased review. Even if there was, someone or something would think it was biased.

  6. #414
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    What do you use that's so light? Kason Legerity/Carvel or APACS Nano Super Light/Fusion Super Light? Or another one?

    Quote Originally Posted by Viper2005 View Post
    Wow, now I can explain why I use a 77g racket and play better than most players.

  7. #415
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    Currently using the Kason Excel C6.
    I've used the Legerity and Carvel before, all great ultra-light rackets.
    Also I use Yonex NBG-95 at 26lbs tension for excellent combination of speed and sound.

    Quote Originally Posted by singnflip4life View Post
    What do you use that's so light? Kason Legerity/Carvel or APACS Nano Super Light/Fusion Super Light? Or another one?

  8. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot View Post
    That's what I'm doing to the frame, making it raw. That's my version of,

    "Stronger paint/clearcoat so the string tension at 35lbs. doesn't dent the frame as fast."

    As for all black, naw, it'll be too close to the Revelation.
    powder coating is more durable than any hydrocarbon based clear coat.
    http://powdercoatingit.com/
    Just apply it on the circumference of the frame where the strings rest.
    I don't mind no painting on other part of the frame because now u can design a stronger frame for the same weight. Imagine, this would out last any yonex or LN's best rackets. This is something of a change that would prompt me to change brand and buy new rackets.
    Last edited by cooler; 08-06-2009 at 03:00 PM.

  9. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooler View Post
    powder coating is more durable than any clear coat.
    http://powdercoatingit.com/
    Just apply it on the circumference of the frame where the strings rest.
    I don't mind no painting on other part of the frame because now u can design a stronger frame for the same weight. Imagine, this would out last any yonex or LN's best rackets.

    Thanks for the info Paul and yes, I have been talking to the manufacturer about power coating and that's what we're going to do from now on, a process they call, "620PP". It's stronger and more durable than any finish I've seen on any racket by a good margin. To date, some of the strongest finishes have been the RSL X2 Gold and Mizuno TC700. The 620PP process is significantly stronger as I have it on my prototypes and didn't know it was an option until 12 hours ago.

  10. #418
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    How do you powder coat something made of carbon? i thought you could only powder coat metallic/conductive items because it goes through an electric process.

  11. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by illusionistpro View Post
    How do you powder coat something made of carbon? i thought you could only powder coat metallic/conductive items because it goes through an electric process.
    there are many kinds; ceramic, metallic, polyhybrid, etc
    u can custom formulate a mixture as well, depending on the specific needs like thermal resistant, scratch resistant, compression resistant, flexing, UV, expansion, etc.. requirement. I'm not an expert on this so i can't talk above my understanding of it. I just know enough to be dangerous

  12. #420
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    actually, carbon can conduct electricity in the direction of it's plane. (there are free-moving electrons inside flat plane of the carbon structure)
    However, it does not conduct in any possible direction, like metals do, because of the way it is constructed.

    However, I don't know how they solved the problem with badminton-rackets, because the graphite is obviously not uniformly layered (think of the Tjoint)...

  13. #421
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    Just a quick question. If I remember right, to finish powder coating, it need to be baked. Will that change the property of the racquet. Just a heads up...

  14. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by illusionistpro View Post
    How do you powder coat something made of carbon? i thought you could only powder coat metallic/conductive items because it goes through an electric process.
    As graphite carbon conducts electricity. Or does it? Doubting myself now.

    EDIT: Don't worry, was late to the party
    Last edited by Randomlegend; 08-06-2009 at 04:04 PM.

  15. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot View Post
    Thanks for the info Paul and yes, I have been talking to the manufacturer about power coating and that's what we're going to do from now on, a process they call, "620PP". It's stronger and more durable than any finish I've seen on any racket by a good margin. To date, some of the strongest finishes have been the RSL X2 Gold and Mizuno TC700. The 620PP process is significantly stronger as I have it on my prototypes and didn't know it was an option until 12 hours ago.
    Can you do matte? The matte paint on some of the Babolat racquets (I know that the Booster series has it) looks really awesome and is quite durable.

  16. #424
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    Duct tape!!!!!

    Nice silver finish. Easy to apply and sticks liek poop to a blanket.



    What?


    WHAT??


    Okay... I'll go away now....

  17. #425
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    heh with duct tape, you can easily change the balance, weight, and color of the racket on a daily basis, even mid game!

    plus, if the shaft snaps, the tape stops your racket head from flying around, and keeps the shards in one place.

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