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Thread: Zymax strings

  1. #953
    Regular Member Alapongtai's Avatar
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    does zy62 hit like bg66?

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    Just had my RKEP PRO 9k strung with ZM65 @ 11kg and my MX80 strung with ZM76 @ 10kg.
    Gonna try them out tomorrow. My first ever try with other strings than yonex.
    Normally use BG80.
    Very excited to see how that play.

  3. #955
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    haha..dont think it will be in all terms but maybe some

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    hmm.. should I order few packs of ZM65?
    is it better than ZM67?

    I planned to restring my MX80 and Tpro (esp Tpro, I haven't changed it for 2 years)

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    Regular Member Alapongtai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger View Post
    hmm.. should I order few packs of ZM65?
    is it better than ZM67?

    I planned to restring my MX80 and Tpro (esp Tpro, I haven't changed it for 2 years)
    try both. zm67 is a bit more dull whereas zm65 is a bit bouncy

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    just order zm62 and zm65

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    Here is one tip on how to determine a string' "playability", due to different colors, of the same brand and gauge.
    Let us say in the ZM range of strings with the colors platinum, red, optic yellow, and ivory or white. The easiest to break is the platinum followed by optic yellow, ivory, and last red. If you play at high tensions and if you have a fast hand speed you can actually feel the crispness of the strings with platinum miles ahead of the rest. Red is very durable and it pays a heavy price by having the worst "playability" Zymax string.
    But if your hand speed in not fast enough, which is characteristic of players who play late shots by holding and then whip out at blinding speed, like a LD, then by all means red is ideal.

  8. #960
    Regular Member Alapongtai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by taneepak View Post
    Here is one tip on how to determine a string' "playability", due to different colors, of the same brand and gauge.
    Let us say in the ZM range of strings with the colors platinum, red, optic yellow, and ivory or white. The easiest to break is the platinum followed by optic yellow, ivory, and last red. If you play at high tensions and if you have a fast hand speed you can actually feel the crispness of the strings with platinum miles ahead of the rest. Red is very durable and it pays a heavy price by having the worst "playability" Zymax string.
    But if your hand speed in not fast enough, which is characteristic of players who play late shots by holding and then whip out at blinding speed, like a LD, then by all means red is ideal.
    do the colors really make a difference? do professionals have preferences on color of their strings?
    and does that mean LD has slow hand speed? i dont really get what you mean by hand speed...
    this might explain why my zymax strings last forever... i use red and i dont have the quickest swing/hand speed lol

  9. #961
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    all my rackets was string with white and yellow string

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    Regular Member Blitzzards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alapongtai View Post
    do the colors really make a difference? do professionals have preferences on color of their strings?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinichi View Post
    all my rackets was string with white and yellow string
    Probably a good idea to listen to this pro from Brunei

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alapongtai View Post
    do the colors really make a difference? do professionals have preferences on color of their strings?
    and does that mean LD has slow hand speed? i dont really get what you mean by hand speed...
    this might explain why my zymax strings last forever... i use red and i dont have the quickest swing/hand speed lol
    My earlier reference to LD's fast hand speed could be better worded. What I mean is that LD has very fast hand speed, meaning that the speed of the racket head at impact with the shuttle is extremely fast.
    This can happen only if the rest of the "swing" elements are slower in a coordinated way.
    Let me explain using a simple analogy. Try to visualize a column or straight line of 20 soldiers marching and then making a 90% right hand turn. Soldier #1 is the first soldier to be on the pivot and soldier #20, being at the end of the line. The "impact" or objective of the right hand turn is to complete the right hand turn with precision. The pivot position of soldier #1 during the turn is almost stationery, just like where you stand when hitting a shuttle. The end of the line, soldier #20 (racket head impact point), must have a significantly faster speed than soldier #1. Like in hitting very crisp and fast shots, the faster the end point (soldier #20) relative to the impact point (soldier #1) the faster the hand speed.
    Your body's motion is a complex series of movements starting from your feet to shuttle impact with well coordinated varying speeds, from soldier #1 to soldier #20, to deliver the perfect crisp shot.
    You can actually tell if you have fast hand speed. Just like the difference between the feel or crispness from a 0.62 gauge string and a 0.70 gauge string, a particular color of the same string that gives you that superior crispness will be better.
    One way to test your hand speed is to try to use almost no arm or hand movement to try to deliver a drive from the end of the court across the net with great speed and with almost no hand or arm movement. Players who are hard to "read" usually have very fast hand speed.

    Colors in strings are either dye or pigments. Dye is like wearing almost no underwear, pigments are like wearing thick and very tight underwears. If you wear a thin pair of pants the wear and tear will be faster with no underwaer.

  12. #964
    Regular Member Alapongtai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by taneepak View Post
    My earlier reference to LD's fast hand speed could be better worded. What I mean is that LD has very fast hand speed, meaning that the speed of the racket head at impact with the shuttle is extremely fast.This can happen only if the rest of the "swing" elements are slower in a coordinated way.Let me explain using a simple analogy. Try to visualize a column or straight line of 20 soldiers marching and then making a 90% right hand turn. Soldier #1 is the first soldier to be on the pivot and soldier #20, being at the end of the line. The "impact" or objective of the right hand turn is to complete the right hand turn with precision. The pivot position of soldier #1 during the turn is almost stationery, just like where you stand when hitting a shuttle. The end of the line, soldier #20 (racket head impact point), must have a significantly faster speed than soldier #1. Like in hitting very crisp and fast shots, the faster the end point (soldier #20) relative to the impact point (soldier #1) the faster the hand speed. Your body's motion is a complex series of movements starting from your feet to shuttle impact with well coordinated varying speeds, from soldier #1 to soldier #20, to deliver the perfect crisp shot.You can actually tell if you have fast hand speed. Just like the difference between the feel or crispness from a 0.62 gauge string and a 0.70 gauge string, a particular color of the same string that gives you that superior crispness will be better.One way to test your hand speed is to try to use almost no arm or hand movement to try to deliver a drive from the end of the court across the net with great speed and with almost no hand or arm movement. Players who are hard to "read" usually have very fast hand speed.Colors in strings are either dye or pigments. Dye is like wearing almost no underwear, pigments are like wearing thick and very tight underwears. If you wear a thin pair of pants the wear and tear will be faster with no underwaer.
    Lol....confusing analogy but i get your drift

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinichi View Post
    waiting for your comment mate
    Ok, I've had the chance to try my Arc10 with the ZM62 now.

    Again, this was strung at 25/27 on my 3UG4 Arc10. First thing I noticed was the sound. Very distinctive difference in the sound that it makes compared to all the other sounds coming from the racquets of all the other players at my club. Really makes you stand out! If I had to describe it, its a louder, higher pitch ping. Reminds me of when I was playing at school when we had the whole hall to ourselves and all you can hear is the beautiful crisp echo of striking a feather shuttle cleanly.

    The sweetspot is definitely slightly higher and a little bigger than with BG80. I don't know why, but the racquet is a lot more playable now compared with my other Arc10 with BG80 at the same tension. Control is better along with more feel. In terms of power, I think BG80 is more powerful, but only just. However the power is more accessible with ZM62, it is more forgiving and tolerates slightly imperfect shots. The strings did move around a lot but this is a small price to pay for a string of this quality though. Drop shots are far better with the ZM62, theres more feel and you know you've hit a good one by the amplified sound but for outright power, BG80 is better. My flick serves with 62 did not turn out very well, they were controllable, but surprisingly did not have the repulsion I was used to. This was a big surprise as I was expecting there to be more repulsion.

    Despite how well the 62 plays, for me, it still cannot make up for the shortfalls with the Arc10. I have played with most of the top end racquets that Yonex have manufactured since the late 80's and to me the Arc10 is one of the most disappointing of all Yonex have made, particularly when we factor in the price. Admittedly I have not tried the 2U, but the 3U is awful.

    Overall, I think the ZM62 has done well to make the Arc10 playable for me, but to be honest, even with the improvements that the 62 brings over BG80, I feel the Arc10 really is too poor a racquet to improve significantly.

    As said, I am more used to medium gauge strings, so I'll be looking forward to trying out the 65 and 67 possibly on my 8DX or Ti-10.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alapongtai View Post
    try both. zm67 is a bit more dull whereas zm65 is a bit bouncy
    I tried the ZM67, I strung my MX80 and Tpro with ZM67 (prototype ZM67 for the Tpro)

    I have 2 packs of ZM67 now
    I'm thinking to try ZM65.. or maybe ZM62 (As I have no problem with ZM67, yes, I cannot even break the string in this past 2 years)
    do you think it will be better than ZM67? (in term of playability)

  15. #967
    Regular Member visor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avenger View Post
    I tried the ZM67, I strung my MX80 and Tpro with ZM67 (prototype ZM67 for the Tpro)

    I have 2 packs of ZM67 now
    I'm thinking to try ZM65.. or maybe ZM62 (As I have no problem with ZM67, yes, I cannot even break the string in this past 2 years)
    do you think it will be better than ZM67? (in term of playability)
    i've been testing out both zm67 and 65 against my favourite vs850 recently...

    ultimate power: 67>65>850
    feel: 850>65>67
    tension retention: 67>65>850

    so depending on your playstyle, choose the string that fits you

  16. #968
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    mybadmintonstore is now carrying the second-generation Zymaxes, including Z65.

  17. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    mybadmintonstore is now carrying the second-generation Zymaxes, including Z65.
    how do you know theyre 2nd gen? are all red ones 2nd gen?

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