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  1. #1
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    Default Stringing "Special" Tensions

    So I've been asked about my stringing a Zelm Trixon 8 at 20/28. I originally got this idea from Lobeh on these forums, who strings his Cab 20s. If you want to see his original posts, they are contained in the first 3 pages of the Zymax strings thread.

    The discussion started on this thread. Distan3 and PeteLSD showed some interest in it, so instead of stealing that thread, here's a new one.

    So when I say 20/28, I mean I tension the mains at 20 pounds, and 28 pounds.

    I did it on a Klippermate M140, with a 2 pound prestretch. I made sure to clamp the racket down tightly, and while dropweights aren't really calibrated, I did check the tension using the "water-jug" technique and it was correctly tensioned.

    The stringing method was a 2 piece method, prestring the whole thing,and middle out on both mains and crosses (I hate starting knots). I applied 2 extra pounds on the last two mains on either side, and 2 extra pounds on the last two crosses on the top and bottom to account for tension loss in the knots. My knots are the Richard Parnell Pro knots.

    There was no deformity in the racket at all, not from what I can see. I compared it to two highly similar iso head rackets strung by stringers obviously better than me.

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    The blue one is the Trixon 8 at 20/28 with ZM62, the green is an HPS racket strung by Dink-a-lot at 22/24 with ZM67, and the black one is a Zelm Powerplay 9990 strung by SgBad at 24/26 with BG66, but has since dropped to 23 pounds.
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    Here are the three rackets side by side in different positions for direct comparison
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    Sorry for the poor lighting and pictures, they were taken with an iPhone on a cloudy day.

    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3 View Post
    ^ interesting. i want to see what master SH and Pete think of it. but certainly it should lead to a longer racket head. =T
    Quote Originally Posted by singnflip4life View Post
    thats exactly what i was expecting too. In fact, I even reasoned that due to the isometric shaped head, it would place FAR too much stress on the corners of the box shape frame, and cause a break. But interesting enough, it didn't. But what I could see happening, is a sort of "equilibrium."

    Granted its a two-piece, so there's no evening out of the tension, but reason tells me that the pulling of the cross strings certainly lengthened the racket, but that in turn caused the mains to stretch and increased the tension in the mains as well, which helped to balance out the racket somewhat. Because my 20/28 job certainly didn't feel like 24 pounds, and my 18/28 job didn't feel like 23 pounds. The former felt more like 25.5, and the 18/28 felt more liek 24.5. I have a racket strung at 25 pounds by Sir Dink, and the former felt slightly tighter, though it had a bouncier response, and the latter felt a little looser, but still bouncier than the one from Sir Dink. It definitely threw off my net game and drops but made smash defense a breeze.

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    Default PM from Distanc3

    Quote Originally Posted by Distanc3
    hey singnflip4life,
    I've been thinking about the tension you've described (20/28) wouldn't through the string bed look weird? As the cross is 8lbs tighter the cross touching the main would cause the main strings to be more wavy. The string bed would not be as flat as a racket that is say 24/26. is there a thread about this method of stringing already?
    This intrigued me, so I immediately checked up on it in comparison to the other 2 rackets above. The stringbeds on the PP9990 and the HPS were uniformally deflected, meaning the deflection of the mains and crosses were about the same in comparison the center plane of the bed. However, the Trixon 8's mains were much more deflected in comparison to the crosses, which had very very little deflection.

    I don't know if there's an exact thread about this method of stringing, but as I said before, I got this idea from Lobeh in the first few pages of the Zymax strings thread in the String sub-forum.

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    Glad you took the time to make this thread with pictures and all, props singnflip4life!

    yes it comes to mind as i usually tension the mains then preweave all the cross before tensioning, then i thought wouldnt the difference in tension cause the "deflected" string bed.

    Hope more stringers can give some more feed back

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    Hopefully so, I PMed PeteLSD, if there's anyone you want to see, go ahead and PM them

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    Interesting work there! I can't really comment as I haven't tried this method of stringing yet.

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    It is a good idea to string two identical rackets, one with 20/28 and one at 20/22 for better comparison.

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    For your information, I only do 2PTD and hybrid 2PTD string jobs with six-point suspension or press down six-point machines. Therefore, results will be different from yours.

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    I would do 2PTD as well, but it requires a good starting knot, and the standard one for tennis seems to slip into the grommet on badminton rackets. I'm waiting for sir dink to post a detailed post on how to tie his massive knot, like he promised to.

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    Depending on the frame, four to five loops will be enough for a starting knot.

    Quote Originally Posted by singnflip4life View Post
    I would do 2PTD as well, but it requires a good starting knot, and the standard one for tennis seems to slip into the grommet on badminton rackets. I'm waiting for sir dink to post a detailed post on how to tie his massive knot, like he promised to.

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    Oooo okie thanks! I'll try it out.

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    I have developed a very good starting knot of my own - the knot tail points at the frame and it's VERY neat. I'll try and draw some diagrams of it (in Paint).

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    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Right, I've done my best here, so no laughing. Frame in red, anchor main in black and tie-on string in blue.

    1. Do a single hitch, looping the string away from the center of the frame (i.e. left to right in the pictures);

    2. Go up and over, then down through the green area;

    3. Come up through both loops on the left;

    4. Go down through the dark green area and up through the pink area;

    Repeat step 4 if you like, going down through ALL loops and up through ALL loops - I do this with thinner strings.

    The result should look like the bottom pic.


    M.
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    Ahhh thanks very much Mark!!! I'll try both yours and Pete's next time (probably sometime today)

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    Just make sure you pull the knot tight from both ends before pulling the top cross - the knot won't tighten just in response to pulling the cross, and should be as tight as possible beforehand. Do let us know if you manage it, as my drawings aren't brilliant.

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