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  1. #18
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    Mark A, thanks for the knot graphic, it looks great, ill probably try it next time i string. only problem is i havent been playing much. Singnflip, you just got 2 woven 7's you can use for direct comparison

  2. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    Right, I've done my best here, so no laughing. Frame in red, anchor main in black and tie-on string in blue.

    1. Do a single hitch, looping the string away from the center of the frame (i.e. left to right in the pictures);

    2. Go up and over, then down through the green area;

    3. Come up through both loops on the left;

    4. Go down through the dark green area and up through the pink area;

    Repeat step 4 if you like, going down through ALL loops and up through ALL loops - I do this with thinner strings.

    The result should look like the bottom pic.


    M.
    woahahaha, it's so graphic it should be x-rated

  3. #20
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    ROFL at cooler.

    heh IllusionistPro, that's what I fully intend on doing, gotta use my ZM62 and 67 somehow. I'll be stringing one racket after each final over the next 4 days. I have the Nano 900 Power Red and White to string too.

    Mark, your drawings made perfect sense. As a huge user of MSPaint (too poor for Photoshop) I got it immediately

  4. #21
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    cooler's right, actually - without any refence to stringing my description comes across as VERY pervy - "daddy, what's a pink area and a dark green area?"

  5. #22
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    Ooo that kind directions would need a contortionist, maybe two

    I'll try out one of the knots tonight, I'll try to take illustrative pictures as well.

  6. #23
    Regular Member Sgbad's Avatar
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    At tensions like this, wouldnt the racket be very "narrow". I remembered seeing in a thread, where Kim Dong Moon actually strings his rackets 2lbs higher on the mains, and the frame was very rounded. You should consider teaching kim dong moon's stringer how to string. How does the 20/28lbs tension play?

    Great illustrations Mark A!

  7. #24
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    As soon as I saw that Zelm I thought it looked really long, but if the M and X deflections are truly equalised then it should play wonderfully. I would experiment myself but my only current rackets are ones I don't want to break (Z-Slash, NS9900 and Arc 9).

  8. #25
    Regular Member Sgbad's Avatar
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    By the way, may i ask, what are the benefits of playing at this tensions? Will consider stringing up the Powerplay10000 at 20/26 as well.

  9. #26
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    Wah, with cross 10% > main, the stringbed should be very very tight .

  10. #27
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    It is QUITE tight. Almost too tight for me, and I can normally handle at most 24 pounds. I can't get any real power off of the strings. Its tight, but bouncy instead of stiff. I like it, I just have to try it lower, maybe 18/26. My touch is amazing though. It has all the touch and control of a 27 pounds racket, but the power generation has the ease of a 24 pound racket.

  11. #28
    Regular Member Sgbad's Avatar
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    Will try it out soon.

  12. #29
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    Haha I DEFINITELY recommend a load spreader. And being very careful.

  13. #30
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    Alright, so after much stringing and playing with knots...

    Maybe I just suck, but seriously, a 5 loop starting knot is just too complicated for me.

    Mark, when I did your knot, I realized this was actually simply a pro knot, as "invented" by a certain Richard Parnell and with a nice illustration here. I now use a modified version of the pro knot as a starting knot. I make one knot, and use the excess end to make a second right before the knot on the side closer to the frame. That works so well. So now I do Top Down and I have to say the stringbed feels much better. Now I wonder if I should do a 2PTD with special tension.

    I was curious, what method does Sir Dink use? His stringbeds are always so bouncy.

  14. #31
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Actually mine is a variant of this. After coming back up through the big loop I go down and up again (and perhaps a third time if the string is thin and/or the grommets are wide); the version shown in the video is way too small for badminton - it'll just fall right through.

  15. #32
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    Ah my bad I was doing I wrong. Heheh good catch there. I'll try that again on Tuesday when I get my new stringer in.

    And Jesus those "strings" are huge! Imagine how big the shared grommets must be

  16. #33
    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Lucky Panda found this post.

    For the record: If any Panda Power rackets are strung at 20/28 or similar, the warranty is immediately void.

    Regardless of how the rackets perform, they are not designed for such radical string tension. You do not want to change the original, unstrung shape of the racket too much. 20/28 is too much as you are making the racket far too long.

    A Yonex Insider told Panda a majority of the broken rackets Yonex receives for warranty claims are from stringers stringing the crosses too tight and thereby cracking the racket frame.

    Another case and point is you hear about rackets cracking from being pull too long but never from being too round. Maybe Kim Dong Moon was on to something there.

    Bottom line: Panda believes a racket will consistently perform the best, will last the longest if strung as close as possible to the original, unstrung shape. How this is done is dependent on your specific machine and how you mount the racket. So, your mileage may vary.

  17. #34
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    [...] you hear about rackets cracking from being pull too long but never from being too round.
    Very true. How many times have we seen rackets with compressed fractures on the inside of the frame...

    Racket frames are like eggs: easy to break from the inside out, but much tougher the other way. This is why I'm experimenting with dropping the M/X differential to 1 lb for <25 and 2 lb for >25 - seems to better preserve the aspect ratio.

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