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12-17-2009, 03:32 PM #18
I appreciate your replies, guys, but maybe I should restate that I'm playing plastic almost exclusively and I'm looking at getting another racket to supplement my Ti Swing Power SS, which is flexi and mod head heavy.Understanding that different strings and tensions work differently with different birds, I highly suspect that different rackets (ie. characteristics) are also required. So, now knowing that thicker strings and lower tension work better for plastic, what racket charateristics would work better for plastic?
12-17-2009, 03:49 PM #19
I think you could go 2 ways about that, plastics generally fly faster if hit hard, so you could go for a lighter racket to counter that, if you think you can react fast enough. It isn't always as easy to finish the point off though, as it is harder to control the shuttle to exactly where you want it and you'll have less power.
Or you could respond in kind, the trouble is you then end up with a bit of a smash fest with no real skill involved, rallies are often short and boring.
As for stiffness not so sure, but I think as plastic shuttles are heavier, you'd want a slightly stiffer shaft, as it will flex the shaft more, as it has more mass, this could be negligible though. The game is faster so again stiffer as the shuttle will hit the racket faster flexing the shaft more. Again not sure if this makes a huge difference, I was planning on experimenting a bit on this after Christmas.
So maybe go up to a medium flex racket and even balance, so that games stay interesting and the same string. The trouble with the lowering the tension is it will mess up everything I just said above. Maybe try varying one thing at once, or there are just too many variables all depending on each other. Which wouldn't be cheap...
12-17-2009, 04:29 PM #20
I use 24lbs for both plastics and feather. With plastics, I'd use a bit more effort to clear/smash harder, but drops are more precise.
With feathers, clears are EFFORTLESS and smashes are more lethal. Drops go a bit too fast, so I lose a tiny bit of control. Defense also suffers a bit for me (usually return it too high and opponent would net kill it)
With plastics=more control
With feathers= more power
12-17-2009, 06:31 PM #21
1) a little on the high end for plastic (hence, you're experiencing a compromise of power for precision), and
2) a little on the low end for feather (hence, you're experiencing a compromise of precision for power).
Therefore, we can only conclude that there is an optimal string tension for each bird type, which we already know and have established from previous threads on this subject. I know that choosing a particular tension is choosing a compromise between power and precision, but in your case of using 24 lb for both, you're compromising on the best tension for each shuttle type.
But what I'd really like to know is if there is are differences in racket types that would be optimal for each bird type.
12-17-2009, 06:37 PM #22
12-17-2009, 06:46 PM #23
I find, that plastic birds, being how the cork is harder causing a harder impact, is less forgiving of being mis-hit off the sweet spot than feathers. And at 26 lb the sweet spot is much smaller than at 21 lb; so unless I'm consistent in banging the sweet spot everytime, I find that I can't clear and smash consistently with plastic at 26lb.
10-05-2010, 04:21 AM #24
I use a MP-45 @ 24lbs BG 80 for plastic.
and yes its much more playable especially the smash and defense vs my
M-tec 70 @ 26lbs
My observation is that, if the head of the frame is too light relative to string tension the plastic shuttle will cause the racket head to bend or twist and lose some power. I'm not sure if there is a more optimum shaft flex or not.
I definitely feel that a plastic has a heavier hitting weight for whatever reason it may be.
I've not tried, but I think a 4U and maybe 20 - 22 lbs could work on plastic.
I definitely wouldn't use anything strung above 25lbs on plastic for 1
too much vibration and shock to my injured elbow
and 2, theres no reason to use plastic other than cost savings, and breaking a $20+ string job to save money on shuttles is just counter productive.
Last edited by vipjun; 10-05-2010 at 04:26 AM.
10-05-2010, 04:04 PM #25
I use one racket for both mostly feathers !
10-06-2010, 01:46 AM #26
Since this thread started, I've been playing with Mavis 2000 instead of 300 plastic birds.
I find the 2000 more similar in strike and flight to feather birds... feels less harsh on impact than 300, but not as crisp as feather birds. It is also quite economical; although 10% more expensive than 300, it lasts almost twice as long despite hard hitting games.
It is also easier on the shoulder and racket/strings than 300 because it is easier to drive, clear, strike ... kinda like a hybrid between 300 and feathers in feel, flight.
Give the 2000 a try! They are much better than 300!
Of course feathers would be better, but they are too costly for our group.
10-06-2010, 02:32 AM #27
Glad the 2000's have been doing you well. I played with them a lot last year.
I definitely find the consistency of mavis 2000 to be great vs a feather thats been hit for a few rallies. Can I ask how do you tell when you need to change the 2000 shuttles or do you just wait until the skirt breaks?
Also Have you had any luck locating RED (fast speed) tube Mavis 2000's? I have the blue medium speed ones and for the weather here it is beginning to be too slow another reason to string lower tension when playing with plastic.
The MP45 was my old racket and I just found it better when playing with plastics quite accidentally.
10-06-2010, 03:27 AM #28
I broke 2 racquets bcuz of plastic. The crossed net backhands are harder to do bcuz of the weight. I mostly play @the net with plastic bcuz it's easier+conserving energy. The backhand clear is quite easy to do with a shuttlecock composed of all its feathers, much more enjoyable.
10-06-2010, 12:46 PM #29
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