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  1. #18
    Regular Member visor's Avatar
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    I appreciate your replies, guys, but maybe I should restate that I'm playing plastic almost exclusively and I'm looking at getting another racket to supplement my Ti Swing Power SS, which is flexi and mod head heavy.Understanding that different strings and tensions work differently with different birds, I highly suspect that different rackets (ie. characteristics) are also required. So, now knowing that thicker strings and lower tension work better for plastic, what racket charateristics would work better for plastic?

  2. #19
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    I think you could go 2 ways about that, plastics generally fly faster if hit hard, so you could go for a lighter racket to counter that, if you think you can react fast enough. It isn't always as easy to finish the point off though, as it is harder to control the shuttle to exactly where you want it and you'll have less power.

    Or you could respond in kind, the trouble is you then end up with a bit of a smash fest with no real skill involved, rallies are often short and boring.

    As for stiffness not so sure, but I think as plastic shuttles are heavier, you'd want a slightly stiffer shaft, as it will flex the shaft more, as it has more mass, this could be negligible though. The game is faster so again stiffer as the shuttle will hit the racket faster flexing the shaft more. Again not sure if this makes a huge difference, I was planning on experimenting a bit on this after Christmas.

    So maybe go up to a medium flex racket and even balance, so that games stay interesting and the same string. The trouble with the lowering the tension is it will mess up everything I just said above. Maybe try varying one thing at once, or there are just too many variables all depending on each other. Which wouldn't be cheap...

  3. #20
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    I use 24lbs for both plastics and feather. With plastics, I'd use a bit more effort to clear/smash harder, but drops are more precise.

    With feathers, clears are EFFORTLESS and smashes are more lethal. Drops go a bit too fast, so I lose a tiny bit of control. Defense also suffers a bit for me (usually return it too high and opponent would net kill it)

    in conclusion
    With plastics=more control
    With feathers= more power

  4. #21
    Regular Member visor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shot3gun View Post
    I use 24lbs for both plastics and feather. With plastics, I'd use a bit more effort to clear/smash harder, but drops are more precise.

    With feathers, clears are EFFORTLESS and smashes are more lethal. Drops go a bit too fast, so I lose a tiny bit of control. Defense also suffers a bit for me (usually return it too high and opponent would net kill it)

    in conclusion
    With plastics=more control
    With feathers= more power
    If you carefully analyze your experience as you've stated, your conclusion should really be that the 24 lb tension with your string is
    1) a little on the high end for plastic (hence, you're experiencing a compromise of power for precision), and
    2) a little on the low end for feather (hence, you're experiencing a compromise of precision for power).

    Therefore, we can only conclude that there is an optimal string tension for each bird type, which we already know and have established from previous threads on this subject. I know that choosing a particular tension is choosing a compromise between power and precision, but in your case of using 24 lb for both, you're compromising on the best tension for each shuttle type.

    But what I'd really like to know is if there is are differences in racket types that would be optimal for each bird type.

  5. #22
    Regular Member visor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glydersid View Post
    I have played both, and IMO using a head light racket with plastic is pretty much useless (unless you play at the front in doubles). There is no power generated at all, and its hard to control a plastic shuttle anyway. Also applies to 4u rackets. With feather shuttles, any racket will do really.
    Yep, that has been my experience as well, even if I used a faster swing, I couldn't transfer power to the plastic shuttle as well as I could with a head heavier racket.

  6. #23
    Regular Member visor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lilgamer1337 View Post
    how is that possible LOL a clear with plastic is almost as effortless as a drop especially with 26
    Only if you hit it in the sweet spot perfectly.

    I find, that plastic birds, being how the cork is harder causing a harder impact, is less forgiving of being mis-hit off the sweet spot than feathers. And at 26 lb the sweet spot is much smaller than at 21 lb; so unless I'm consistent in banging the sweet spot everytime, I find that I can't clear and smash consistently with plastic at 26lb.

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    I use a MP-45 @ 24lbs BG 80 for plastic.
    its a
    3U
    285 balance
    medium flex

    and yes its much more playable especially the smash and defense vs my

    M-tec 70 @ 26lbs
    5U
    280
    stiff flex

    My observation is that, if the head of the frame is too light relative to string tension the plastic shuttle will cause the racket head to bend or twist and lose some power. I'm not sure if there is a more optimum shaft flex or not.
    I definitely feel that a plastic has a heavier hitting weight for whatever reason it may be.

    I've not tried, but I think a 4U and maybe 20 - 22 lbs could work on plastic.

    I definitely wouldn't use anything strung above 25lbs on plastic for 1
    too much vibration and shock to my injured elbow
    and 2, theres no reason to use plastic other than cost savings, and breaking a $20+ string job to save money on shuttles is just counter productive.
    Last edited by vipjun; 10-05-2010 at 04:26 AM.

  8. #25
    Regular Member drew tze en's Avatar
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    I use one racket for both mostly feathers !

  9. #26
    Regular Member visor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vipjun View Post
    I use a MP-45 @ 24lbs BG 80 for plastic.
    its a
    3U
    285 balance
    medium flex

    and yes its much more playable especially the smash and defense vs my

    M-tec 70 @ 26lbs
    5U
    280
    stiff flex

    My observation is that, if the head of the frame is too light relative to string tension the plastic shuttle will cause the racket head to bend or twist and lose some power. I'm not sure if there is a more optimum shaft flex or not.
    I definitely feel that a plastic has a heavier hitting weight for whatever reason it may be.

    I've not tried, but I think a 4U and maybe 20 - 22 lbs could work on plastic.

    I definitely wouldn't use anything strung above 25lbs on plastic for 1
    too much vibration and shock to my injured elbow
    and 2, theres no reason to use plastic other than cost savings, and breaking a $20+ string job to save money on shuttles is just counter productive.
    Hi vipjun,

    Since this thread started, I've been playing with Mavis 2000 instead of 300 plastic birds.

    I find the 2000 more similar in strike and flight to feather birds... feels less harsh on impact than 300, but not as crisp as feather birds. It is also quite economical; although 10% more expensive than 300, it lasts almost twice as long despite hard hitting games.

    It is also easier on the shoulder and racket/strings than 300 because it is easier to drive, clear, strike ... kinda like a hybrid between 300 and feathers in feel, flight.

    Give the 2000 a try! They are much better than 300!

    Of course feathers would be better, but they are too costly for our group.

  10. #27
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    Glad the 2000's have been doing you well. I played with them a lot last year.

    I definitely find the consistency of mavis 2000 to be great vs a feather thats been hit for a few rallies. Can I ask how do you tell when you need to change the 2000 shuttles or do you just wait until the skirt breaks?

    Also Have you had any luck locating RED (fast speed) tube Mavis 2000's? I have the blue medium speed ones and for the weather here it is beginning to be too slow another reason to string lower tension when playing with plastic.

    The MP45 was my old racket and I just found it better when playing with plastics quite accidentally.

  11. #28
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    I broke 2 racquets bcuz of plastic. The crossed net backhands are harder to do bcuz of the weight. I mostly play @the net with plastic bcuz it's easier+conserving energy. The backhand clear is quite easy to do with a shuttlecock composed of all its feathers, much more enjoyable.

  12. #29
    Regular Member drew tze en's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by visor View Post
    Hi vipjun,

    Since this thread started, I've been playing with Mavis 2000 instead of 300 plastic birds.

    I find the 2000 more similar in strike and flight to feather birds... feels less harsh on impact than 300, but not as crisp as feather birds. It is also quite economical; although 10% more expensive than 300, it lasts almost twice as long despite hard hitting games.

    It is also easier on the shoulder and racket/strings than 300 because it is easier to drive, clear, strike ... kinda like a hybrid between 300 and feathers in feel, flight.

    Give the 2000 a try! They are much better than 300!

    Of course feathers would be better, but they are too costly for our group.
    I totally agree the Yonex Mavis 2000 is the best plastic shuttles on the market at the moment and they are really similar to the feather shuttle

  13. #30
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    i have been asking the same question for a while now. After a lot of trial, I found the best fit for me is the following:

    Plastic (Yonex Mavis 300):
    Racket: Yonex Voltric 80 4U
    String: Zymax 65 26lb

    Feather (Victor Master No. 1):
    Racket: Yonex Z Speed 3U
    String: Zymax 65 29lb

    Keep in mind even though Z Speed is a 3U it feels much lighter than 4U Voltric 80. Just because Voltric 80 is head heavy.

    So, far I have found for plastic I need a head heavy racket to hit a power shot. It's easy to clear with Voltric 80. For feather with a lighter racket I can hit harder. I play with both. Twice a week with feather and the other twice a week with plastic. I really don't want to get into discussion why I play plastic, I know in an ideal world it would be all feather. But I like to play more than 2 times a week and play at 2 different clubs. the other club, we use plastic because it's cheaper. I don't think you need two different rackets but for me it helps to adjust mentally for me. The bird timing is different and having two different types of racket, it helps to adjust quickly. I would like to know what you guys think and other people's thought on this. I am sure there are player here who play with both every week.
    Last edited by ezish; 07-27-2014 at 02:31 AM.

  14. #31
    Regular Member visor's Avatar
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    Oh yes, definitely agree.

    For plastic, I found that I needed 2 lbs lower tension with thicker strings, higher swing weight, and slightly heavier racket in total. Otherwise I can't even clear.

  15. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by shot3gun View Post
    in conclusion
    With plastics=more control
    With feathers= more power
    Not sure if I agree with that. Plastics are like bullets when it comes to smashing. Feathers are touches like spin at the net, strategic positioning etc. I would say plastics = power. Feathers = control.

  16. #33
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    I've been playing for 30+ years, 3.5 years of those were with plastics exclusively (studied in a small country town where badminton was an alien sport).

    My experience is limited to Yonex plastics - the red one is faster than the blue (standard?) one. I don't think it's necessary to have a plastic-only racquet. That said, I would go with 1lb lower tension & slightly thicker string to counter the different characteristics of a plastic shuttle.

    Assuming the same grade, a plastic shuttle is not faster - it loses less speed mid flight compared to a feather one. In my limited experience anyway.

  17. #34
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    I really feel a head heavy works better for plastic more, it's easier to transfer the power to the plastic bird, and lower tension around 25 to 26lb seems to be ideal.

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