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  1. #86
    Regular Member Michal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    If I may ask, what would be the problem with making a thinner base?
    The base now is 14mm (version "yellow) and 12mm (all black) "highest". The screw needs maybe 7mm (for 5-6 threads of screw) this link should be durability enaugh. So the base could be only 5-7mm lower than now. In my opinion ~6mm its not many differents.
    I don't exactly understand why the base should be lower. I've been using this first version more than 6 months- at least 30 racquets. This pulling string angle (not horizontal) imo it's no problem.
    I'm affraid that my language skills are not enaugh to explain (and sometimes to understand) everything clearly, but I will try.

  2. #87
    Regular Member .spot.'s Avatar
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    Default no welding

    However, the ones with the round backs look slightly too wide to me; they should fit between the closest holes on a racket (those in the middle of the crosses) without blocking them at all.
    You can achieve a cnc-milling-only production by making the piece asymmetrical. Not shure, how stability is affected, but since there are 2 screws, torsion would be not much of a problem.
    Name:  clamp.jpg
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    Are the wider (black) pieces also watercut? If you have access to a milling machine, you could do it that way in order to not needing to weld pieces together.
    Downside is, you would have to make two different, mirrored pieces. Or you decide to make the piece universal, with 2 openings, one inside, one outside.

  3. #88
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by .spot. View Post
    You can achieve a cnc-milling-only production by making the piece asymmetrical. Not shure, how stability is affected, but since there are 2 screws, torsion would be not much of a problem.
    Name:  clamp.jpg
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    Are the wider (black) pieces also watercut? If you have access to a milling machine, you could do it that way in order to not needing to weld pieces together.
    Downside is, you would have to make two different, mirrored pieces. Or you decide to make the piece universal, with 2 openings, one inside, one outside.
    what spot has is spot on!

    that's what would be ideal. and with even more curve at the back so strings won't get caught.

    i will pay money for something like that.

  4. #89
    Regular Member .spot.'s Avatar
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    Default waterjet

    another idea from yesterday night, in case milling is too expensive..
    It's a waterjet-only solution, but I'm not shure if it's really doable by watercutting, due to the tolerances in this thickness.

    two pieces, the top clamp will slide into the "V"-groves of the base part. the screws go through the whole base part into the "V"-groves and press up the clamp, so it cannot move.
    Name:  waterjet.jpg
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    I'm not shure how critical it is for the base-part, not to have these sharp edges. to cover them, yet another part would be required :-s maybe a short rubber profile, like it's used as gasket in windows or doors, would do. similar to this one:
    Name:  99308_Classic-P-Profil-Dichtung_xxl.jpg
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    for the screws, something like this could be used to achieve enough pressure to hold the 2 parts in fixed position (only longer):
    Name:  000135848-4.jpg
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    That's it for now, have fun developing

  5. #90
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Even with the dovetails it would be a good idea to put a few dots of weld along the joint to keep them from sliding.

    I'm tempted to get Solidworks out and do some CAD models of these.

  6. #91
    Regular Member .spot.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    Even with the dovetails it would be a good idea to put a few dots of weld along the joint to keep them from sliding.
    Maybe yes. But the whole idea with the dovetails was to avoid welding and have a waterjet-only-production. The pressure from the screws would prevent the clamp from moving, but this would need some testing.
    Btw with this system, the badminton specific clamp could be removed by just loosening the screws, and e.g. a tennis clamp could be sled in. No need to completely remove the part from the machine.

    I'm tempted to get Solidworks out and do some CAD models of these.
    No problem, I'm too lazy to do so ;-) Probably cause I got nothing to do with stringing, I just like to think about design problems..
    Since you got the model already.. If you do the solution from my upper post, you can lower the clamp-part ca. 5mm, imagine the lower "grip" directly coming out of the base-part. Saves some height.

  7. #92
    Regular Member Michal's Avatar
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    Thanks for opinion, especially for .spot. ideas. IMO the idea with linking base with top clamp without welding is really nice.
    I think, that we don't need special screws- this is single use only, I mean that screw will be wriggle only once.. In my opinion it's no necessary to use rubber profil from door or window, double termo sleeve is really durability and looks better. But the conception with connecting both of parts is smart. I hope it's possible to make.
    Now i need to talk with contractor (cnc engineer). Then measure everything (using your suggestion about size of base and upper clamp), design on CAD, buy good steel and make.

    The shipping abroad should be easier than I thought before, paying using PayPal it's simple too.
    Please give me another few days, mayby 1 week. I will make another (hope final) version, and will give you pictures and information about price with shipping cost.

    Best regards,
    Michal

  8. #93
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    the problem i see with .spot. latest design is that the v-groove will likely catch some strings. one of the most important property is that surfaces and corners must be smooth so loose strings will just glide across without getting caught.

  9. #94
    Regular Member Michal's Avatar
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    In previous post I forgot about one important thing. I need to know how many sets do I need to make (initially, without obligation).I need this information to calculate the final price (more sets=>lower price). Please write me PM

    Cheers,
    Michal

  10. #95
    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Panda will take 1 for sure, up to 3 sets.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michal View Post
    In previous post I forgot about one important thing. I need to know how many sets do I need to make (initially, without obligation).I need this information to calculate the final price (more sets=>lower price). Please write me PM

    Cheers,
    Michal

  11. #96
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    I don't have a similar machine, but if you can machine one to go in a SP e.stringer DG, I'd get one set as well

    I'd be more than happy to email specs of my current supports to see if its compatible with no or very little adjustments
    Last edited by singnflip4life; 10-19-2010 at 05:14 PM.

  12. #97
    Regular Member .spot.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michal View Post
    In my opinion it's no necessary to use rubber profil from door or window, double termo sleeve is really durability and looks better.
    I didn't think of the rubber profile as a substitute for the thermo-sleeve at the contact point with the racket...
    Quote Originally Posted by kwun View Post
    the problem i see with .spot. latest design is that the v-groove will likely catch some strings.
    The v-groove is likely to hurt the strings or hinder the work of the stringer. Therefore, I suggest to cover them with a rubber profile.

    Maybe the picture was a bit confusing, so here's another one:
    Name:  profil_there.jpg
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    Overall, I think the milling-only-solution is much more straight forward. 1 piece, no worries.

  13. #98
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    I would be interested in something like this. But every machine probably has different gaps between the two screw holes making mass production troublesome.

    My wish, would be to have the support projecting a little further forward from the base. This would allow the fixed clamps to be used a little closer to the racket frame for those last mains.

  14. #99
    Regular Member Michal's Avatar
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    http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8123/00004a.jpg

    Only my pictures now (my poor drawing). For real supports I need to wait another few days, it takes more time, than i thought before.

    Difference:

    1. Thinner base („Mark A” advice), the racquet will be mounted lower (~5mm) than before, waterjet made
    2. wider „upper” side (35->43mm)- without sharp edges, longer weld
    3. smoother edge (margin), safety for strings
    4. better looking welds (junctions)- propably MIG/TIG with grinding
    5. both parts (top and bottom base) cnc made (waterjet)
    6. double layer of termo protection sleeves


    Be patient please, I will write and will add real new pictues as soon as I can,
    „singflip4life”, it's possible, please response for my message ( I sent to your mail (not PM) your picture with my marks and asked for some sizes).

    Best regards,
    Michal

  15. #100
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    Sorry about that Michal. It's been really hectic and I haven't even had time to cook (so tired of take-out). I've replied to your email and sent you the measurements. Thanks for all your hard work!

  16. #101
    Regular Member DinkAlot's Avatar
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    Below are the essential dimensions on the SP Tennis Opus Badminton Mounts. The essential number for Panda is the 16mm "base". Everything else there's leeway.


  17. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinkAlot View Post
    Below are the essential dimensions on the SP Tennis Opus Badminton Mounts. The essential number for Panda is the 16mm "base". Everything else there's leeway.
    Does the distance between the bolts not matter?
    I have the same supports, but am not at home to measure.
    -Fidget a la belle province

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