Custom-Made Stringing Machine Parts

[bazzaman]

any ideas for modifying the clamp down type as in the st200

[CovinaStringer]

any ideas for modifying the clamp down type as in the st200

Yonex or Eagnas?

[bazzaman]

Eagnas but its based on the yonex.
Points at 12 and 6 o'clock stop the racquet from shortening while the 4 c-clamps clamp down on the racquet.

I always damage the paintwork when I clamp.

[CovinaStringer]

I would use overgrip strips. I never like metal parts touching the paint. A friend of mine uses leather power pad strips.

[bazzaman]

Whatever I stick on the top part of the c-clamp comes off easily as its only 4mm wide.

I just tried using heatstrink tubing x2 but not sure it will grip the racquet. Wont know until my next restring.

[KooGuy]

Kwun,

After seeing your 'k' shape support on post#180, I can see why you have a problem with clamping the string. I think the side support on my post#179 will help but your side mount only has one hole so can be a little challenging to retrofit to your stringing machine.

I think post #182's side support will work for you. Those 'pvc' like material is easy to work with and thread with a screw, assuming you are little handy with tools. You can find them in local woodworking shop for minimal cost.

[CovinaStringer]

Whatever I stick on the top part of the c-clamp comes off easily as its only 4mm wide.

I just tried using heatstrink tubing x2 but not sure it will grip the racquet. Wont know until my next restring.

I think heat shrink tubing will work, it's pretty durable and can conform to the shape of the part you are covering. That's a good idea.

[singnflip4life]

Its a good idea, but the problem with heat shrink tubing IMO is that it often forms a smooth surface, which is NOT ideal for racket stringing, right? You'd want a surface that has at least a little grip to it?

[Mark A]

Eagnas W or V supports.

Hmm... I had these - briefly. I don't think they're designed for that particular fitment; there's a lot of play between the supports' studs and the arms' holes. If they were held in with bolts they would work a lot better.

In addition, the plastic body twists quite freely on the post, so the racket will move a lot more than usual.

Still have to give the blue ribbon to Michal's efforts.

[DinkAlot]

I think heat shrink tubing will work, it's pretty durable and can conform to the shape of the part you are covering. That's a good idea.

For Panda heat shrink tubing is not good enough, too slippery and no cushioning compared to the Watts PVC tubing.

[kwun]

i still think that a sandcasted part will give us the ideal result. imagine a free-formed shaped part. with a smooth main body that the string won't get caught on, and then a protruding tip that contacts/support the racket frame.

the form can be made by hand with wood and then casted.

the question is who has the skill to do such a task?

[kwun]

how about something like this. it is a metal cabinet door knob. so it is readily mountable on an arm.



and then make an extra groove for some clearance for threading string?

[CovinaStringer]

i still think that a sandcasted part will give us the ideal result. imagine a free-formed shaped part. with a smooth main body that the string won't get caught on, and then a protruding tip that contacts/support the racket frame.

the form can be made by hand with wood and then casted.

the question is who has the skill to do such a task?

A prototype can be made from clay then copied to wax to make mold. But I would rather make something that can be CNC'd from a billet.

Hmm... I had these - briefly. I don't think they're designed for that particular fitment; there's a lot of play between the supports' studs and the arms' holes. If they were held in with bolts they would work a lot better.

In addition, the plastic body twists quite freely on the post, so the racket will move a lot more than usual.

Still have to give the blue ribbon to Michal's efforts.

You could just replace the stud with a long bolt and nut if you want it secure.

how about something like this. it is a metal cabinet door knob. so it is readily mountable on an arm.



and then make an extra groove for some clearance for threading string?

Interesting Idea! The you can cover it with pvc tubing or heat shrink tubing, to prevent paint damage.

[kwun]

A prototype can be made from clay then copied to wax to make mold. But I would rather make something that can be CNC'd from a billet.

yes. that would be nice. but the factor is access to a CNC mill ($$) and the cost of the raw material.

sand casting material can probably be melted from large metal piece like screws/etc which are relatively cheap.

Interesting Idea! The you can cover it with pvc tubing or heat shrink tubing, to prevent paint damage.

unfortunately a trip to homedepot on the way home turned out empty handed.

[DinkAlot]

unfortunately a trip to homedepot on the way home turned out empty handed.

Sir, I can send you some, only need a foot or so.

[kwun]

Sir, I can send you some, only need a foot or so.

sorry i meant the door knob handle, not the tubing...

i actually saw the tubing you mentioned when i was scouring through homedepot for potential suitable parts for the support just now but at this point i don't need any of the tubing.

[CovinaStringer]

yes. that would be nice. but the factor is access to a CNC mill ($$) and the cost of the raw material.

sand casting material can probably be melted from large metal piece like screws/etc which are relatively cheap.

I would make it out of Delrin, a harder version of John's cutting board material. Sand casting would be quick, but you have to also think about how are you going to get melted iron or similar material, it takes a lot of heat. It's easier to contract a machine shop to make a set or even a 100 pieces. I think Mark had a design at the begining of this thread.

I just thought of another way to do it, but I can ask a model maker friend of mine. If a cast can be made from a prototype, out of silicone. I think you can use a polyurethane that you can just pour in. Kinda like making ice cubes.