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  1. #1
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    Default two piece string, keeping cross?

    If one uses two piece stringing method, must one replace the cross?
    Normally, the main would break while the cross is almos new. Should
    the stringer charge half the price for replacing the main only?

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    Default

    I would suggest you cut your strings immediately once you break them. It can cause your racquet frame to break due to the amount of stress on either the cross or main. hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    Nick

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    Agree.

    If only the cross breaks, then, main string will pull the racket head like a "ball". If only the main breaks, then, cross string will pull the racket head really narrow.

  4. #4
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    Default not all rackers are so fragile

    Not all rackets are so fragile as those new MP, Ti, etc. If you don't string with
    very high tension, the workhorse like rackers don't deform with a single string
    break. Now if one mounts the racket on the string machine and cut the breaking
    main, there is no reason to replace both the main and cross at the same time.
    Of couse, one needs to tie the main on the main and cross on the cross to take
    advantage it.

  5. #5
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    Default

    even though if you do decide to change only the main or only the cross, that's a slight inconvenience to your stringer since they still need to open up a new pack, unless it is reel we are talking about. there shouldn't be any problem stringing just main or cross but why do that? If you are going to restring, just restring the whole racquet.

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    Default time consuming to remove the mains

    it takes a lot of time to carefully remove just one set of strings. in most cases, the cross is likely knotted using a mains as the anchor.

    it is simpler to just removing one or two damage lines of the string for just a simple repair and in most cases will leave the remaining strings relatively undisturbed, but if you have taken the effort to remove the entire mains, you might as well restring.

    btw: if the racquet owner is adamant about keeping the cross, get yourself another customer.

  7. #7
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    Default

    badrad has good point. usually main strings are knotted on itself, while cross strings are usually knotted on the mains to start with.

    honestly, strings are cheap and labor and time are expensive. likely trying to save a dollar or two by saving the cross string isn't practical as it will take a lot more care to do so and thus time.

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    Originally posted by kwun

    honestly, strings are cheap and labor and time are expensive. likely trying to save a dollar or two by saving the cross string isn't practical as it will take a lot more care to do so and thus time.
    that's a good point, kwun, about the cost for materials versus labour. i guess if one was to do it for themselves, and lots of spare time to spend on it, maybe it would be okay. but not if you're asking someone else to do it...

    on another note though: if the remain string (ie undamaged cross or mains) is still in good condition, i would take the time to unthread it (instead of cutting) and coil it for the customer for his own use later on. If it was the mains that was intact, this could be re-used for a cross. If it was a cross, unfortunately the salvaged lenght will be too short, but could be re-used for repair jobs.

    the only concern sometimes with re-using string that has been previously strung, the string will sometimes have notches were it met the grommets, and these are sometimes enough to weaken the string.

  9. #9
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    on the topic of breaking strings...

    does anyone notice that, under normal wear and tear, it is the mains that usually wears down and breaks first?

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    Originally posted by kwun
    on the topic of breaking strings...

    does anyone notice that, under normal wear and tear, it is the mains that usually wears down and breaks first?
    on most racquets i have seen, the wear is usually even, that is the mains and cross show even amounts of fraying. this would stand to reason since the string is the same for main and cross, so there should be no material differences.

    but on the breakage side, i see more mains break than crosses. not sure why, but just guessing that some racquets are strung with mains higher tension than crosses.

  11. #11
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    Default racket rec. tension for breaks

    On a related issue about string racket with high tension. It seems
    to me that the question is not how high one can string a racket
    without problem during stringing, rather at what tension the racket
    would not be damaged when string breaks. So the rec. tension for
    racket is the tension the racket can stand when the string breaks.
    So if you want to string racket above rec. tension, you should cut
    string BEFORE it breaks.

  12. #12
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    Default replace main only when it breaks; replace cross only when cross breaks

    Hi, all:
    I am doing my own stringing job. And I am using expensive strings like NBG95 (~$10) and NBG98(~$13). My usual tension is around 27/29 lbs in Sotx 11, 7i or 7 rackets.
    I want to try to replace the main only when it breaks; and just replace the cross only when it breaks. I tired the main string to main only; and tired the cross to cross only. In this way, I will save some expensive string by doing so. And #10 strings will become #20 strings in usuage. I will remove the broken string carefully after I stable/hold the whole racket in the stringing machine first. In that way, I think can prevent the distoration of the racket whilel taking off the broken string.
    I want people's opinions in this issue.
    thanks inadvance,
    Bruno
    Last edited by BrunoLi; 08-15-2007 at 01:33 PM. Reason: typo

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    Default New thread?

    Hi, Kwun:
    this thread may be too old and no body pay attention to me. Can I make this a new thread in the stringing tech?
    Bruno


    Quote Originally Posted by BrunoLi View Post
    Hi, all:
    I am doing my own stringing job. And I am using expensive strings like NBG95 (~$10) and NBG98(~$13). My usual tension is around 27/29 lbs in Sotx 11, 7i or 7 rackets.
    I want to try to replace the main only when it breaks; and just replace the cross only when it breaks. I tired the main string to main only; and tired the cross to cross only. In this way, I will save some expensive string by doing so. And #10 strings will become #20 strings in usuage. I will remove the broken string carefully after I stable/hold the whole racket in the stringing machine first. In that way, I think can prevent the distoration of the racket whilel taking off the broken string.
    I want people's opinions in this issue.
    thanks inadvance,
    Bruno

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    Default

    If you really want to go cheap on that. Here is my advice.
    To start on the first time, string 1 piece method only.
    When the string break (main or cross does not matter, usually main) mount the racquet on to your stringing machine. Take out the entire string carefully. Store the used string in a ziploc bag.
    String the racquet in 1 piece method again.
    When the string break on the second time, mount the racquet and take out the string again. now you have 2 broken strings to string 1 racquet again.
    This only work if your time worth less than $13/hr. (Price of NBG98)

  15. #15
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    You are so good, Master SH!!!

  16. #16
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    I was cheap once...

  17. #17
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    Default thanks!

    thank you very much, master SH and Pete.
    I was thinking doing the same when using the Ashaway Micropower string too. It only costed me around $2 piece, that's even more cheap, cheap, cheap

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