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  1. #1
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    Question getting the cross started

    hey guys.

    recentely i have been doing 2 piece stringing jobs, but i am wondering about something.
    then you start your cross' should you then put direct tension on the first string or weave on more ?( i normally do a regular starting knot, followed by a pro am knot) i have been searching on the forum and have seen many different knots, but some of them requires that you have a new grommet? I have also seen people write a Dinkalots, special starting knot with a twist or what it's called, but haven seen a picture of it yet, if someone has a picture please post it.

    thank you

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    for the starting knot of cross, you can use the bulky starting knot, which you can see it here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UT1cXy-6Wz0.

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    thnx a lot, trķed it and it worked well

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    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    I always tension the first string and do so very slowly - if your starting knot is good enough it will stand up. I have my own starting knot, of which I plan to take sequenced pictures and put on BC at some point. It's really neat and the tail sits against the frame like a Parnell.

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    I tension the first string also but as stated your starting knot has to be good. The yonex stringers and some others i've seen tension the 2nd string, not sure why but i guess there must be a decent reason though. I think it's down to preference.

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    Depend. My preference is to tension from the first cross. However, in case of fly clamps only, you can not tension first cross and clamp on. So you have to do first 2 crosses with 1 pull and clamp on the 2 crosses.

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    Regular Member allyjack110's Avatar
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    I have a similar query about the 'correct' process for starting the cross section. According to Yonex, when using a two-piece stringing pattern the cross section should begin at the bottom and progress upwards. However, my usual stringer, who uses a top-of-the range Babolat Sensor machine (around £4,500 = $7,200 USD) begins his crosses at the top and works his way downwards. BUT, he avoids tensioning the first cross and instead begins the tensioning process on the next string. He reasons for doing so are because appararently tensioning the top cross puts unnecessary strain on the frame. Is this correct? As a NON-stringer this seems to make sense to me as the top cross on all my restrung rackets appear noticeably looser compared to the rest of the string-bed. My question is, if this is indeed the correct method, how does one finish the last cross at the top without tension if the crosses were started at the bottom?

    Please note that I am not a stringer... yet, but I am trying to acquire myself as much info as possible before purchasing my first machine. Hence, the very long-winded question. I'll most likely purchase a manual crank machine, WITHOUT fixed clamps; flying clamps instead.

    Thank you in advance.
    Last edited by allyjack110; 03-11-2011 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Spelling mistake(s)

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    Quote Originally Posted by s0nnay View Post
    I tension the first string also but as stated your starting knot has to be good. The yonex stringers and some others i've seen tension the 2nd string, not sure why but i guess there must be a decent reason though. I think it's down to preference.
    Electronic constant pull tension head's like the wise, yonex and victor all pull very hard. It's difficult to explain, but even at low tensions and especially at high tensions they will pull the knot through. That is why I pull the 1st two crosses together.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    I always tension the first string and do so very slowly - if your starting knot is good enough it will stand up. I have my own starting knot, of which I plan to take sequenced pictures and put on BC at some point. It's really neat and the tail sits against the frame like a Parnell.
    I'd be interested to see that ... so far starting knots are my biggest problem, and weaving that last crosses with little/no space.

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    Quote Originally Posted by s0nnay View Post
    I tension the first string also but as stated your starting knot has to be good. The yonex stringers and some others i've seen tension the 2nd string, not sure why but i guess there must be a decent reason though. I think it's down to preference.
    The constant pull machines pull the knot through, and sometimes break the knot. That is why we pull the first 2 crosses, because the knots break.

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    i start the crosses using a starting clamp, pull on the second cross then at the end pull the bottom cross then do my finishing knot, i don;t like the idea of pulling on a knot and this way all my knots looks the same.


    cory

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    Regular Member CovinaStringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monticore View Post
    i start the crosses using a starting clamp, pull on the second cross then at the end pull the bottom cross then do my finishing knot, i don;t like the idea of pulling on a knot and this way all my knots looks the same.
    You should do at least 5 to 6 crosses before tying off, or else you risk of pulling string through the string clamp, which may damage string. Having at least 3 crosses will have enough friction to prevent any string damage from the clamps.

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    i normally do all e crosses before trying off

    cory

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    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kakinami View Post
    The constant pull machines pull the knot through, and sometimes break the knot. That is why we pull the first 2 crosses, because the knots break.
    The Yonex machine (and the WISE, according to the owners I know) is especially strong, and thus espcially prone to this issue. However, the first cross is loose mostly because there are no crosses on both sides to provide friction, so the tension loss is less noticable. Also, the first cross contributes the least of them all to the overall bed stiffness.

    AK's pattern will suffer all the less from the double pull because of his extra cross.

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    Regular Member allyjack110's Avatar
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    ...So if you start from the bottom and work your way up (two-piece method), does the last cross at the top require tensioning? I only ask because whenever I get my rackets strung the top cross always seems considerably looser when compared to the rest of the entire string bed. I usually have my rackets at 23lbs.

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    mark a pointed out that because the last top and last cross don't have adjacent strings on both side they will seem looser. also being the tie off string they will lose some tensions there as well.

    i normally add +2lbs on my main tie offs, but i don't add any weight on my cross tie offs because there are already being done at+2lbs over the mains.

    cory

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    The Yonex machine (and the WISE, according to the owners I know) is especially strong, and thus espcially prone to this issue. However, the first cross is loose mostly because there are no crosses on both sides to provide friction, so the tension loss is less noticable. Also, the first cross contributes the least of them all to the overall bed stiffness.

    AK's pattern will suffer all the less from the double pull because of his extra cross.
    compared to lockout machine, ECP machines are stronger in the way that it will maintain the constant tension. but that should apply to all CP machine including dropweights.

    24lbs is 24lbs is 24lbs. unless the calibration is wrong then both machine should be the same. i remember we tested Yonex/AK's ES5Protech against my WISE, the difference in calibration is around 0.2lb, which should be negligible.

    but this is the part that i don't really understand. after i used it last week, the string job that came out from the Pro/Protech "feels" tighter. and it kinda confirms it too because the frequency that came out of two comparable jobs are:

    ARC10 - BG66UM - 26lbs - WISE - 1244Hz
    ARC9FL - BG66UM - 25lbs - ES5Pro - 1250Hz

    now, for the 9FL i did have AK staring at me so i was less sloppy and took my time and really waited for the machine to settle while when i string the ARC10 i probably rushed it through a little.

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