So, when you buy a racket at a store and strings are already on it, what is the normal tension of the strings that the factory puts on it? I have been playing with a Carton Airblade 500 Ti for a while now and I want to know the string tension of it as it came with the strings already on it. I also have a few Yonex rackets and when I see them in the store with the strings already on them, it gives a recommended string tension but does not tell you what tension they used. If you guys could help me with this one, it would be awesome! Thank you in advance for helping me!
If it's come strung out of the factory it will be no higher than 18-20 lbs and be very thick - it seems to me that rackets are only factory strung to a) make them pick-up-and-playable, and b) protect the head during transit to the retailer. If you're any kind of serious player, don't hit a single shot with that rubbish.
lol Alright, thanks! See, I am getting better and I think it is time for a racket change so that is why I am looking at the Apacs Tantrum 300/Lethal 70 package for $200. I just wanted to know what tension I have been using this entire time and I was always thinking I wanted tighter strings and now I know how much I should increase by. Would you say Yonex BG-65 with 24/26 or 26/28 would be a good choice? By the way, I am not really asking about the tension as I know that is completely based on the player and I think those tensions are good for me, but how is the string choice?
i wouldnt advise going from factory tension straight to 26 or 28 try perhaps 23 or 24 max and then see where it goes from there
I agree with noppy - it's better to increase string tension gradually, and play with the lowest tension you can tolerate (personally, I find 24lbs is plenty). I'd also skip on the BG65 string - it's very durable, but that's about the only thing that's good about it. Again, start with a thin string like Yonex BG80 or Ashaway ZM62, and then try progressively thicker strings only if you find you are breaking them too often (eg. BG85 / ZM67/70).
Don't you mean, start BG-85 or ZM62 then switch to e.g BG-80/ZM67/70 Because BG-80 is thicker then 85
Alright, thanks for your replies. I have been playing for quite a while now so I am pretty sure I can handle the tension but I will probably start off with about 24/26 (so basically 24 as I have read that you have to have +2 on the cross). Though, I do not know much about strings, what is the difference of using thin or thick strings?
Alright thanks, but I think I should go for the BG-65 as you said it would have higher durability as it is a thicker string and I am not really looking for the BEST performance. I was just looking for something better than the factory strings and from your comments, it seems like ANY string would be MUCH better. This way, if the BG-65 strings last longer, then I can save some money. What breaks a string anyways? Is it just from regular use, a lot of power shots, or other factors?
24lbs with 26lbs (24lbs +2 for crosses) is referred to as 26lbs overall tension by most be careful if you do jump straight from factory string to 26lbs i changed from 26 which is my current tension to 28 and the 2lbs difference was massive my arm was hurting after a good night training so i had to cut the strings and drop back to 26. i havnt tried 28 recently.
Actually, BG65Ti is Yonex's standard factory string for mid-range rackets and above - it's just done very loosely. BG65 (non-Ti) is a widespread "tournament" string i.e. the players don't want it breaking at 30+ lbs, so its durability is good. As to what breaks a string, it can go from normal use (after a long time) or from a mis-hit (at ANY time, annoyingly), but higher tension will accelerate either of both of these phenomena, so don't go mental - 24 is fine to begin with (it's at least 20% more than you're used to, remember!).
Haha, thanks for your replies again! Though, I guess I was completely wrong then getting it backwards as I TOTALLY meant I wanted either 24 or 26, not 26 or 28. lol Thanks for clearing that up though but I thought it is "+2", meaning that the overall tension is 24 if it was 24/26. Anyways, I have no idea I am completely new to this. So when I order the rackets, I should select 22/24 if I want an overall 24 pound tension? If I have to bring it to a shop to restring in the future, if I just tell them I want 24, would they do the +2 cross thing automatically? Anyways, thanks again for your posts! It is GREATLY appreciated!
Hehe - this has been of some debate on BC. My advice would be to tell them explicitly that you want 24/26; you can't assume they will observe the 10% rule (although I always do for customer rackets). You might even get an appreciative glance from the stringer for knowing exactly what you want!
Wait, you just said to get 24/26 if I want 24 but that is completely contradictory to what noppy as he said that would be 26 overall. So which one is it?
If you want final 24 lb, then 22x24 is what you want... because the main strings starting at 22 will be "theoretically" increased to 24 by the time the crosses weave through.
Oh, one more thing, I have seen people asking the question of whether the person was using a feather or plastic shuttlecock when they were trying to give advice. What is the difference? Why do they have to ask that question?
Just the way they hit differently (feather lighter, plastic heavier) on impact, so that will affect your string choice and tension to some degree, not critical but still significant difference. Hence, plastic requires 2-3 lbs less tension to "feel" the same as feathers.
You have to hit plastics significantly harder to get them around the court, so reducing the tension in that case is a very wise move. Plastics don't come off the racket as fast as feathers (sadly), and a small reduction in tension will compensate somewhat.
