I been using many different stringers in singapore over the past years, form my experience, all them have their own patterns. I like to start this thread to find out some pointers of incorrect string patterns. Let's start of with a picture taken from dinkalot thread elsewhere (i hope you mind, dinkalot) in the first picture, the pattern is incorrect simply because their is weird jump in the strings? does this mean as long as their is a weird jump, the pattern is incorrect?
no. those are normal on a racket. they need to bring the string from B12 down to their tieoff location at B8/B7. that's very common.
The pattern is not ideal because it loses tension faster, although many stringers use this pattern. BTW, it is not the cause of the racket damage, which is almost always due to improper mounting of the frame. The ideal pattern is that the mains should always be tied off at the two bottom grommets#8, and they must come out from the bottom grommets #10. This reduces the string slag to the absolute minimum. To make the strings come out from the bottom grommets #10, on each side respectively, the strings must be taken from the bottom grommets #9, loop it outside the frame and then up the bottom grommets #12 into the top grommets #11, over the top grommets #10, and finally down into the bottom grommets #10. From the bottom grommets #10 pull the string out and insert into the bottom grommets #8 for the tie-offs. This increases the friction for slowing down tension loss.
thanks for your reply, I am still trying to digest your post, on the surface, it makes sense because one of my stringer does not have this jump and the tension remains longer... however, I cant say for sure he followed your method to the dot
The above string pattern is not correct for Panda Power rackets. We approve and use current Yonex string patterns and similar. Minor variations are fine but the first image in this post is a definite no-no.
When I string rackets I follow the Yonex "other rackets" stringing pattern, which is the same as the one suggested by Tanapeek. If you are unsure if your stringer is stringing a racket the "right" way for you then you can always provide the stringing pattern for the stringer. The Yonex stringing charts can be found here: http://www.yonex.com/badminton/stringing_instructions/index.html I make a slight variation for my own rackets (as it's easier). I start crosses at B7 rather than B6, I find it very hard to get the string to go through B6 and have no problems with knots disappearing into the frame if I start at B7. I also tie off the cross strings at A6 rather than A5, again because it's easier. I use the Panda Power Trinity rackets and HPS (although one of those has a nanospeed stringing pattern). For customers rackets I will stick to the official patterns. Obviously for nanospeeds, z-slashes I follow those specific stringing patterns.
you are right, I guess I have to learn the pattern by heart. Sometimes, it not that easy to request the official yonex pattern. I still remember for my AT900T, I specifically requested the Yonex pattern (2 piece, 4knot), the stringer was not pleased and commented that 1 piece strings is the way to go, used by professionals... in the end, i got a AT900T with that strange jump. vibration was so bad until it caused me a tennis elbow. needless to say, i don't go back to that shop anymore.
I wouldn't go back there either... did he also recommend 33 lbs "because it's what the pros use"? In my four years of stringing I've tried every possible variation of ways to get the string in there (including some pretty strange tennis patterns), and IME 2p/td gives the most consistent bed with the highest sweetspot. The YY pattern isn't too hard to commit to memory - just remember to go from 9 to 12 on the mains and it should sort itself out.
