How do you test a new racquet for yourself?

[Yoppy]

Yoppy, I can see the point of using a certain type and diameter of string. But don't you think that tension is also dependant on the other characteristics of the racquet, e.g. frame stiffness, heaviness, shaft stiffness etc?

good point, i actually never thought about that.

i guess the way i work it out is to get the feel with the string characteristics (both size & tension) then link that to the racket characteristic. This is in a way to prevent the string characteristic to misled the way you think about the racket.

But on the other hand (as the point you made), it can backfire. Lets say for example a very flex racket with a tick string and a very high tension, i would imagine the string bed will snap back a lot faster than the racket shaft response, and this can potentially create an ackward feeling and a problem with shot accuracy. Fortunately, so far i have not experience this problem in a great deal manner. Perhaps because my choice of racket is more or less consistent with my tension requirement.

[Yoppy]

On your point about the stamina/physical condition issue, i think it's more likely to be consistent regardless what racket you are testing. After 90mins of play it is obvious that you strength is less, so theoritically your racket movement will be slower (unless for some, they just warmed up ). So if you test a racket at the begining and it already feels not right for you, im not too sure how it will become better after you play it for 90mins. This is on the assumption that time for getting used to the racket is zero.

I can also see your point of having a certain life span in a badminton session. i often felt like a death chicken after 3hrs of baddy and felt the racket that i used early on i cant handle no more. For me i sometimes just simply switch my racket with the one more forgiving and adjust my game speed slower.

[what07]

But that's exactly the thing! It may feel 10/10 when you start your session, but half-way through or say an hour later when your physical condition is not the same as earlier, it may feel 7/10 while another racquet that earlier felt 7/10 may now feel 8/10. Read Visor's post....

A test I usually do is if I can do a bunch of clears comfortably for about 30 mins with the same racket and have a consistent clear from my rear court to the opponents rear court then it passes for me.

After that, play a game and if the racket performs 10/10 then I take a 15min break then play a 2nd game, if the racket performs 8/10 or higher then I say the racket is good enough for me and passes. I don't usually play more then 2 games a day because after that I get so lazy I don't even move around the court.

If I were to have 2 rackets for game play then both would have to be the same BP/weights but one would be less stiff.
E.g Nanospeed 9000x then for the 2nd game nanospeed 9000s.

I already know that after the first game my footwork and movement decreases from 10/10 to 7/10 so to compensate I would put more energy to moving around the court to engage the shuttle then to actually have 10/10 when hitting it. So having a less stiff shaft would help in not losing as much power.

[visor]

^^^
2 games a day max or 2 matches a day max?

Either way it looks like you need to improve your fitness level a bit!

In 2 hrs of play with short breaks, I can usually play 7 to 8 games per evening, twice per week.

[what07]

Well I meant 2 matches

Ya I need to improve my fitness level, been lazy. I can go 3 matches but the 3rd match I'm barely moving. My legs are just too weak from long periods of badminton.

[cobalt]

OK. So far, most of the respondents have said that they have 2 (or more) different racquets to allow for degradation of speed, strength and stamina as the session progresses. Choosing the primary racquet (the one you begin play with) is simple enough.

But what about choosing the fall-back racquet (the one you use when you are into the last part of your session?) How do you end up with the correct choice for the second racquet? Do you just select one with the same characteristics (flex/stiffness) and model line, and then look for one with less weight and lower BP, or do you have other criteria as well?

[Yoppy]

OK. So far, most of the respondents have said that they have 2 (or more) different racquets to allow for degradation of speed, strength and stamina as the session progresses. Choosing the primary racquet (the one you begin play with) is simple enough.

But what about choosing the fall-back racquet (the one you use when you are into the last part of your session?) How do you end up with the correct choice for the second racquet? Do you just select one with the same characteristics (flex/stiffness) and model line, and then look for one with less weight and lower BP, or do you have other criteria as well?

IMO not necessary have to be the same model and stiffness, you can have a whole of combination of them depending on how lazy you want to go. In my case, when im totally tired i will pick my Apacs lethal light which is a 6U.

[what07]

Personally I would keep the same BP and weight, but a lower stiffness. Since my shots would be a little weaker so the flexier shaft would compensate for that.

[cobalt]

Personally I would keep the same BP and weight, but a lower stiffness. Since my shots would be a little weaker so the flexier shaft would compensate for that.

wouldn't you have a problem with timing?

[what07]

I don't seem to have that problem. If I change BPs and weight tho I tend have a problem with timing. Like If I switch from a T2 with BP285 / 82grams to one with 280 / 83grams, I tend to mishit.

[cobalt]

So, if you can get your hands on a Precision with the same weight and BP, it should be as good for you, eh?

[what07]

So, if you can get your hands on a Precision with the same weight and BP, it should be as good for you, eh?

Yup! So maybe as I get more more tired I go down the range from Ultra 1 > Ultra 2 > T2 > Precision

[cobalt]

Yup! So maybe as I get more more tired I go down the range from Ultra 1 > Ultra 2 > T2 > Precision

I know of one large fluffy creature that would love you!
But seriously, if the T2 suits your style, its likely you will find the Precision too "flexy" and unable to provide you with the power for hard hitting that the T2 gives you...

[what07]

Problem with the T2's I have is that there not head heavy enough, so maybe when this batch comes I'll find a more suitable bp / weight ratio. If it still doesn't suit me then I'll just give it to my bro since he likes new toys as much as I do.

[visor]

Problem with the T2's I have is that there not head heavy enough, so maybe when this batch comes I'll find a more suitable bp / weight ratio. If it still doesn't suit me then I'll just give it to my bro since he likes new toys as much as I do.

Very easy $2 fix to increase bp and head wt.

Just get a roll of black hockey fabric tape, divide in half and apply 3-5 inches at 2 and 10 o'clock positions on the racket head.

This should increase your bp by 5-10mm and head wt by 1-2g. Noticeable enough for more oomph in your smashes... at the expense of defense of course.

[what07]

Very easy $2 fix to increase bp and head wt.

Just get a roll of black hockey fabric tape, divide in half and apply 3-5 inches at 2 and 10 o'clock positions on the racket head.

This should increase your bp by 5-10mm and head wt by 1-2g. Noticeable enough for more oomph in your smashes... at the expense of defense of course.

I shall try that on my bros karakal mtec70, he wants it more headheavy then BP300. The hockey tape won't rip off the paint tho when you peel it off the racket?

[visor]

I shall try that on my bros karakal mtec70, he wants it more headheavy then BP300. The hockey tape won't rip off the paint tho when you peel it off the racket?

Naw, it's safe... it's just fabric tape... the adhesive is even wimpier than the one on Band-Aids!