I string the same racket in different racket shop. One string it with 21 cross lines and the other string with 23 cross lines. Which one is correct?(or better?) What will be the difference? In term of power, control, and durability?
Wilson badminton uses 22M x 23C pattern. Crosses starts from B8 to A7. Sometimes people do like to string 1 or 2 crosses fewer so you can get a sharper feel from the stringbed. Unless you mishit a lot, otherwise in term of durability does not affect much.
Oic, Thanks a lot, But I dun understand why string fewer cross lines can get a sharper feel? because of more repulsion? The one with more cross line give me more solid feel (or harder feel). But this may due to tension variation in different racket shop.
Check out this topic, http://www.badmintoncentral.com/forums/showthread.php?81159-Adding-one-extra-cross-string which is better, 1 extra bottom cross or, 1 or 2 less bottom cross is user dependent. There some pro players and stringers out there that have preference for each method, majority of us just go for the manufacturer suggested pattern. IMO, there are pros and cons for each method. Best method is what works for 'you'. Key is stringer understanding your need and string it as part of the whole system, not a last minute add on or subtraction. I have seen all kinds beyond those of 1 or 2 extra or missing cross. Some i chuckled and some are ok. here are some discussions 2 missing bottom cross http://www.badmintonforum.com/vb/sho...hlight=missing 1 missing bottom cross http://www.badmintonforum.com/vb/sho...hlight=missing http://www.badmintoncentral.com/foru...ghlight=bottom 1 extra bottom cross http://www.badmintoncentral.com/foru...ghlight=bottom
i just strung one of the same racket (Wilson BLX Vertex) for a client. OMG. the top cross is such a pain. there is next to zero space up there. next time i will string top down instead.
I know the feeling, I snapped my Wilson last week Kwun...silly Pete....but the two I did today turned out MUCH better!
Or, wave and tension the last top cross, then come back for the 2nd to the last. Of course, in theory the tension loss maybe a bit more, but you can over come by adding 10% more tension for the last 2 cross.
Does it ultimately matter where you begin your cross - top or bottom? Yonex recommends that you start from the bottom and work your way up. That's how my coach strings my rackets. I've ordered a Wilson BLX Recon.
The more I look at that BLX pattern the more I like it, but I can see intereference problems at the top (load spreaders probably won't fit in, for example). I can see how kwun would have issues, but then he does go backwards.
^^Hmm... looking that second picture again, it seems the top cross was added and is not part of the pattern - silly me. However, I have seen Wilson K-Series rackets factory strung with the added top cross, so who knows? The standard NSP pattern (first pic) definitely has too much main poking out above the top cross; Arc-Z/8DX is the best one, IMO, from a player's perspective.
I thought the Arc Z had its own specific pattern, seperate from all the other Yonex models? What does NSP stand for - is there a standard stringing pattern?
The Arc Z pattern was used on the NS9000 S and X previously, and is currently used on the 8DX and 5DX as well. NSP is code for "new stringing pattern" i.e. it doesn't have five shared holes at the top. I call the Arc Z et al pattern "2+4" (two shared and four pairs of singles) and the other NSP (VT70/80, Arc 10 etc) "2+3", but this is by no means universal; in fact, I'm probably the only one.
