showoff, home made 6 point support

[badder]

Just for fun, not professional, showoff my home made 6 point support system. The string machine is Eagnas Hawk15 2 point support one. So far works well.

[fastmiele]

you got to be good at physics to come up with an idea / set up like that.
good for you

[badder]

you got to be good at physics to come up with an idea / set up like that.
good for you

You have a good eye. I AM physics major.

[kwun]

interesting. what is material for the white support?

[Pete LSD]

More importantly, do you still need to add 2 lbs extra to the cross reference tension? What about the amount of distortion and frame movement?

[weeyeh]

I like your use of a tension based system to prevent racket movement when tensioning the mains. I do not understand how/if your system prevents lateral movement when tensioning the cross.

[Mark A]

Wow - you must have faith in your design to picture it holding a Voltric.

Now you have six-point and hold-down, which I've only seen on the Victor 7030 so far.

[david14700]

Nice job

I like the metal rod you have running across under the frame from the 3 to 9 o'clock positions, must reduce bulging of the frame when you're doing the mains.

[badder]

interesting. what is material for the white support?

It's teflon, same material as the white cutting board used in kitchen.

[badder]

More importantly, do you still need to add 2 lbs extra to the cross reference tension? What about the amount of distortion and frame movement?

For this system, I still need add 2lbs for the cross, which I found to be good to maintain the frame in its original shape. For the frame movement, remember this is 2 point support system. The frame basically is held in place by the clips at 6 and 12 clock. My purpose of adding 4 points on the side is to have a better frame support when I pull the main at higher tension that otherwise could not be done (or too risk) with only 2 points support.

[badder]

I like your use of a tension based system to prevent racket movement when tensioning the mains. I do not understand how/if your system prevents lateral movement when tensioning the cross.

This is originally 2 points support system. The lateral movement is held by the 6 and 12 clock clips. The support at 6 and 12 are not the same as normal 6 points support system. I found there is some lateral movement when I pull cross, but not a big issue when you talk about 26lbs or less.

[badder]

Wow - you must have faith in your design to picture it holding a Voltric.

Now you have six-point and hold-down, which I've only seen on the Victor 7030 so far.

I have done over 60 rackets with this machine before I have this home made 6 support system. After I finished the modification, I pulled this VT70 at 29/31 (not what I normally play with) with Zymax62 just to try out. The frame holds solid without any problems, however, due to the small movement of flying clamp, the tension can not be held at that level and decreased once you lift the weight, so by feeling the string bed, it's more like 26/28 or so, but so be it. I wouldn't try 26/28 on a 2 points support if without extra support on the sides.

[badder]

Nice job

I like the metal rod you have running across under the frame from the 3 to 9 o'clock positions, must reduce bulging of the frame when you're doing the mains.

This is the whole purpose of doing this, to have a better support on the side when I pull main at higher tension. If only 2 points support, it would be too much risk.

[_Rav_]

That's quite a feat of engineering ... I take it that the lateral support doesn't get in the way when weaving, or do you pre weave?

Now you have six-point and hold-down, which I've only seen on the Victor 7030 so far.

My Pro's Pro Shuttle Express has 6 point and hold down, just wish it had a fixed clamp but one can't have everything i suppose.

[badder]

That's quite a feat of engineering ... I take it that the lateral support doesn't get in the way when weaving, or do you pre weave?



My Pro's Pro Shuttle Express has 6 point and hold down, just wish it had a fixed clamp but one can't have everything i suppose.

Since I use flying clamp, so the rod under the frame is not an issue because I can put the clamp on the top.

I don't have to preweave, but I normally do as in the picture. The way I go is to start main in the middle toward each side as usual, and then start cross up from hole 12 to 14 for the upper cross, later, from hole 12 to 13 going down for the lower cross. Add 2lbs for the cross in the middle and keep the same tension as main for the top 5 and bottom 5. I found this works well for my favor. I like one string two knots because it looks better. Also because I start cross in the 1/3 from the bottom, it also helps to hold the frame better.