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  1. #18
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    I have made a promise to myself that I will not buy any more rackets which have all shared holes in the corners. For the ones I have right now I will only string with zm62 to make it easier.

    I tend to string in about 35 minutes for others and about 25 minutes for myself as I tend to take a bit more care for other peoples rackets than my own.

    The only time I've broken a string during stringing though was right at the end, pulled to hard on the knot and the string broke and the knot slipped out. Had to pull the string out and have 1 less cross, no big deal.

  2. #19
    Regular Member Blitzzards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _Rav_ View Post
    It is if you go up 12, back down to 10 and pull from there, don't know how bad it is for the frame or tension loss but i figure i don't hit out there very often and they're pretty short strings by then. I normally clamp 11 to 12 and 10 to 11 to be sure, then repull.
    Correct, and for tension loss problems the only way to negate it in this case is to put a few more pounds on top of the intended tension on the 10th main when you pull and wait for it to stabilise for a longer time than usual. The six point support should prevent the frame from snapping apart.

  3. #20
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    sure. if i skip tensioning the 11th main and pull the 10th only.

    but what do i gain from doing that? just to comply with the Yonex pattern? is there a big enough advantage in the Yonex pattern for me to forgo pulling one string?

  4. #21
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    in fact, the tension loss is more significant than it looks if i don't tension the 11th.

    this is because when i skip 11th, come back and tension 10th, the flying clamp will be clamping 9th and 10th together. well, 9th is held tight by 11th but we already know 11th is slack. so i am clamping 10th against a string that is held by a slack string. which means 10th will lose more tension than it looks.

  5. #22
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    You are silly!! AK is sooooo SLOW!!! Should watch Sattawat in So Cal at OCBC!!! He is super fast now, and his string jobs are supurb!!

  6. #23
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kakinami View Post
    You are silly!! AK is sooooo SLOW!!! Should watch Sattawat in So Cal at OCBC!!! He is super fast now, and his string jobs are supurb!!
    if you are slow... i am not sure what the 99.99% of the rest of us should call ourselves...

  7. #24
    Regular Member CovinaStringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kakinami View Post
    You are silly!! AK is sooooo SLOW!!! Should watch Sattawat in So Cal at OCBC!!! He is super fast now, and his string jobs are supurb!!
    When is the OCBC? I'd like to go and watch.

  8. #25
    Regular Member Blitzzards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwun View Post
    in fact, the tension loss is more significant than it looks if i don't tension the 11th.

    this is because when i skip 11th, come back and tension 10th, the flying clamp will be clamping 9th and 10th together. well, 9th is held tight by 11th but we already know 11th is slack. so i am clamping 10th against a string that is held by a slack string. which means 10th will lose more tension than it looks.
    This may not be exactly related to the thread topic but it should be of use:





    This guy is doing a 29x31lbs job with a two point system using flying clamps. The way he did the Yonex pattern is to pull the 9th and 11th main strings together so he could clamp the 11th string using the flying clamp. IMHO it is pretty impressive seeing that his machine is a drop weight model which pulls close to or exactly true 29lbs tension constant pull.
    Last edited by Blitzzards; 03-03-2011 at 07:57 PM.

  9. #26
    Regular Member Sentinel604's Avatar
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    I don't know what sucks more but I remember my bad experience with ZM62

    I snapped the string while tensioning my parnell knot

    I guess I learned the breaking point of the string when tying a not but **** was I ever pissed

    My emotion in sequence ...
    Pulling the last cross , Tying the knot , Tensioning the knot , Knot snaps , "****"!!!!!,

    Life goes on

  10. #27
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Must say kwun's setup is most unusual - you don't normally see a WISE bolted onto such a skeletal donor machine.

  11. #28
    Regular Member demolidor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzzards View Post
    This may not be exactly related to the thread topic but it should be of use:

    This guy is doing a 29x31lbs job with a two point system using flying clamps. The way he did the Yonex pattern is to pull the 9th and 11th main strings together so he could clamp the 11th string using the flying clamp. IMHO it is pretty impressive seeing that his machine is a drop weight model which pulls close to or exactly true 29lbs tension constant pull.
    That would be bc's smash_master. Don't know how but I ended up on the very same vid yesterday and wasn't even looking for anything stringing related ()
    Must be the infamous klippermate (which it already says , the M140)

  12. #29
    Regular Member CovinaStringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sentinel604 View Post
    I don't know what sucks more but I remember my bad experience with ZM62

    I snapped the string while tensioning my parnell knot

    I guess I learned the breaking point of the string when tying a not but **** was I ever pissed

    My emotion in sequence ...
    Pulling the last cross , Tying the knot , Tensioning the knot , Knot snaps , "****"!!!!!,

    Life goes on
    With badminton strings being so thin, you should be able to pull the knot tight with your fingers. Many people think that you need to use a whole lot of tension to cinch a knot, to the point they use the tensioner to pull the string. Using pliers is the second leading cause of string breaking during knot tightening, it's because of the sharp edges of the pliers. The first is pulling too hard. Use starting clamps or wrap the string around wooden handle or a cut off handle end from a racket.

    As for the video: I'm surprised this guy does not poke his eye with the end of the drop weight. I guess if he put the bar on the other side it would flip the whole machine off his work table/shelf. It's almost painful to watch him string. I want my 14.5 mins back!

  13. #30
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Using pliers is the second leading cause of string breaking during knot tightening, it's because of the sharp edges of the pliers. The first is pulling too hard.
    This is why I use my starting clamp to pull my knots - it has no sharp edges, and baddy string is so thin that it'll slip in the starting clamp before you get to the point where you're pulling it too hard.

    Also why I add 10% before tying off: less than two inches of string lie between the end of the last main-or-cross and the knot, which is about 10% of the length of the main-or-cross in question (and those two inches are under some tension if you pull your knot properly, so even 10% might be generous).

  14. #31
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    This is why I use my starting clamp to pull my knots - it has no sharp edges, and baddy string is so thin that it'll slip in the starting clamp before you get to the point where you're pulling it too hard.

    Also why I add 10% before tying off: less than two inches of string lie between the end of the last main-or-cross and the knot, which is about 10% of the length of the main-or-cross in question (and those two inches are under some tension if you pull your knot properly, so even 10% might be generous).
    just yesterday AK showed me how he uses the pliers to pull the knots.

    instead of using just the plier to do the pull, use it instead as a helper to your hands.

    pull the string with the hand and use the plier to hold the string behind. the pulling force comes mainly from the hand and the plier is there mostly to avoid slippage.

    not sure if this is clear. will post a pic when i get home.

  15. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwun View Post
    pull the string with the hand and use the plier to hold the string behind. the pulling force comes mainly from the hand and the plier is there mostly to avoid slippage.
    I assume you mean, use the piler's rubber handle as the pulling rod, like the one from Yonex's kit? If so, I am also using that method for years. Actually, it's very easy, and protect your hand (away from sharp string cut).

  16. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CovinaStringer View Post
    It's almost painful to watch him string. I want my 14.5 mins back!
    While, no one should use a drop weight machine to open a shop, and trying to finish 20+ job per day. This machine is great for personal usage, and I've been using it for years after 800+ jobs. For the investment of $150, I cannot complain about the service.

    Turbo speed is cool in a way, but I am not sure about the extra heat generated due to the friction and speedy pulling.

  17. #34
    Administrator kwun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LazyBuddy View Post
    I assume you mean, use the piler's rubber handle as the pulling rod, like the one from Yonex's kit? If so, I am also using that method for years. Actually, it's very easy, and protect your hand (away from sharp string cut).
    no. even though that sounds like a good idea as well.

    the technique is this. imagine you are holding onto the rope during tug-o-war. left hand hold the rope in front, right hand holding rope right behind the left hand.

    now, replace the rope with the string. replace the right hand with plier. that's all.

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