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  1. #52
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    That's some achievement. There should be an award for that.

  2. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    Interestingly, Victor now recommends a 2PTD for the 80 hole pattern:

    http://www.victor-international.com/...pattern_80.pdf

    Those big long tie-offs on the mains annoy me, but I suppose it's the lesser of two evils over that preposterous "splitting"...
    Strangely enough, this drawing doesn't represent a real Victor 80 hole racket :\

    Bottom cross should actually be in a hole that is between 7th hole and the 8th hole on that picture, unless they changed that for the new production...

    Also, I've been doing the same thing you're doing for 80 hole patterns since after the first couple times I did it the "real" way. I think it's much better in terms of durability and easier/faster to string. I string crosses bottom up so I can weave the cross in B10 before tying my mains to make sure there is enough room for both strings and the knot.
    Last edited by yan.v; 12-11-2013 at 12:37 PM.

  3. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    Interestingly, Victor now recommends a 2PTD for the 80 hole pattern:

    http://www.victor-international.com/...pattern_80.pdf

    Those big long tie-offs on the mains annoy me, but I suppose it's the lesser of two evils over that preposterous "splitting"...
    Quote Originally Posted by yan.v View Post
    Strangely enough, this drawing doesn't represent a real Victor 80 hole racket :\

    Bottom cross should actually be in a hole that is between 7th hole and the 8th hole on that picture, unless they changed that for the new production...

    Also, I've been doing the same thing you're doing for 80 hole patterns since after the first couple times I did it the "real" way. I think it's much better in terms of durability and easier/faster to string. I string crosses bottom up so I can weave the cross in B10 before tying my mains to make sure there is enough room for both strings and the knot.
    Besides durability and easier/faster to string, what are other significant values using this new stringing method?

    A local stringer told me that this new method will somehow enlarge the sweet spot due to the way that string goes at C10-to-C15 & A10-to-A15 area which resembles Z-Speed's Horizontal-A concept. (I was scratching my head when he explained this)

    He also said this new method will 'pull' the frame inwards at 2 and 10 o'clock area, making the whole frame look narrower at the top.

    Comments?
    Last edited by MjölnirSlinger; 01-03-2014 at 01:07 AM. Reason: Add extra details

  4. #55
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MjölnirSlinger View Post
    Besides durability and easier/faster to string, what are other significant values using this new stringing method?
    That's pretty much it - I came up with the pattern because I hated the fact that the top cross was so low!

    A local stringer told me that this new method will somehow enlarge the sweet spot due to the way that string goes at C10-to-C15 & A10-to-A15 area which resembles Z-Speed's Horizontal-A concept. (I was scratching my head when he explained this)
    A racket's sweet spot size depends only on the racket; I don't think you can make it bigger through stringing, but it might be possible to move it up or down the racket very slightly with top-down vs bottom up.

    (Your stringer might mean that long loops outside the frame are letting the sweet spot flex more, but it's good stringing practice to have as little string outside the frame as possible.)

    He also said this new method will 'pull' the frame inwards at 2 and 10 o'clock area, making the whole frame look narrower at the top.
    If you use top-down, it probably will to some degree. However, you can't really string a racket and have it come out exactly the same shape as it went in and, IMO, the benefits of top-down outweigh the slight deformation.

  5. #56
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    ^I've taken some length and width measurements of my strung MX80 at each grommet; next time I string it I'll take the measurements of the empty frame so we can see if/how much the top-down narrows the top of the rackets.

  6. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    ^I've taken some length and width measurements of my strung MX80 at each grommet; next time I string it I'll take the measurements of the empty frame so we can see if/how much the top-down narrows the top of the rackets.
    Thank you for your further explanation..

    I didn't mean to trouble you, but it seems that my MX-JJS string hasn't snap yet. I may compare it the next time when I go for restring.

    So, I guess I just tag along with you

  7. #58
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MjölnirSlinger View Post
    Thank you for your further explanation..

    I didn't mean to trouble you, but it seems that my MX-JJS string hasn't snap yet. I may compare it the next time when I go for restring.

    So, I guess I just tag along with you
    This pattern isn't bulletproof; less than four weeks ago I broke the top of my middle main on my JJS despite the extra top cross. But then I do us 32 lb/15 kg... I guess anything can happen at that tension.

  8. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    This pattern isn't bulletproof; less than four weeks ago I broke the top of my middle main on my JJS despite the extra top cross. But then I do us 32 lb/15 kg... I guess anything can happen at that tension.
    Oh, 32lbs is quite something! I never exceed 30. Don't have that extra guts to do it.

  9. #60
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MjölnirSlinger View Post
    Oh, 32lbs is quite something! I never exceed 30. Don't have that extra guts to do it.
    You should see what some of the Korean lads play with...

  10. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    You should see what some of the Korean lads play with...
    These guys are pros.. I'm not even an intermediate level yet

  11. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by yan.v View Post
    Strangely enough, this drawing doesn't represent a real Victor 80 hole racket :\

    Bottom cross should actually be in a hole that is between 7th hole and the 8th hole on that picture, unless they changed that for the new production...

    Also, I've been doing the same thing you're doing for 80 hole patterns since after the first couple times I did it the "real" way. I think it's much better in terms of durability and easier/faster to string. I string crosses bottom up so I can weave the cross in B10 before tying my mains to make sure there is enough room for both strings and the knot.
    I'm a little confused now, I came across the same problem last night following the pattern above with my MX80, it just doesn't match the placement of grommets shown in the new pattern linked above.

    I ended up having to use big loops back to B6 to tie of the mains (ugly!), does anyone have a workable 2 piece pattern they can share for stringing the original 80 hole rackets? Otherwise it's back to the old fiddly 1 piece pattern for me.

    (Can anyone confirm the new 80 hole rackets from Victor use a different layout that would match the new pattern? I'm looking at you MX90 people )

  12. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoidius View Post
    I'm a little confused now, I came across the same problem last night following the pattern above with my MX80, it just doesn't match the placement of grommets shown in the new pattern linked above.

    I ended up having to use big loops back to B6 to tie of the mains (ugly!), does anyone have a workable 2 piece pattern they can share for stringing the original 80 hole rackets? Otherwise it's back to the old fiddly 1 piece pattern for me.

    (Can anyone confirm the new 80 hole rackets from Victor use a different layout that would match the new pattern? I'm looking at you MX90 people )
    Look at the first post in this thread, it is the real 1 piece pattern for the MX80. To make it a 2 piece, just do like you'd do for any other racket and when you reach the last main, don't tie it right away. You'll want to preweave the first 2 crosses and then tie your mains in B10/D10. As a result, you'll have 3 strings going through that grommet, but it is not a problem.

    Then, just do your crosses as you'd do with any other racket.

  13. #64
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoidius View Post
    does anyone have a workable 2 piece pattern they can share for stringing the original 80 hole rackets? Otherwise it's back to the old fiddly 1 piece pattern for me.
    Try mine -tie the mains off at B8, then you can use B6 for the lower cross knot.

  14. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark A View Post
    Try mine -tie the mains off at B8, then you can use B6 for the lower cross knot.
    Didn't you tie your mains at B10 on that photo ?

  15. #66
    Regular Member Mark A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yan.v View Post
    Didn't you tie your mains at B10 on that photo ?
    Yes, sorry - I was lapsing into the old Yonex nomenclature

    Tie the mains off at the nearest shared hole, whichever that is.

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    Thumbs up

    Thanks both, I'll give this a try on the other MX80 see how i get on.

    Which just leaves the question on if the latest Victor 80 rackets have rearranged the grommets to fit the new pattern.

    Anyone out there restrung an MX90 able to confirm?

  17. #68
    Regular Member DuckFeet's Avatar
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    Has anyone done an old vs new method comparison? I've not done both with same string/tension so cannot comment.

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