Question regarding my stringing technique (Twisting strings)

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by hybridragon, Apr 13, 2011.

  1. hybridragon

    hybridragon Regular Member

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    Hi, I'm a frequent lurker around these forums as they have been a great source of information regarding all things badminton. I haven't found much substantial information regarding my question yet so forgive me if this has been answered already.

    On my background, I have been stringing for roughly two years (a bit on and off). I can say I've strung roughly 20-30 rackets (mainly for myself; a few side jobs for friends). I mainly use a drop-weight machine and a two piece method. I mainly work with BG65, BG80, and BG85 strings. I usually string less than 25lbs (24x26.5), and a pre-weave ahead on crosses. (sometimes up to 8 strings ahead) I pre-stretch with BG65s, but not so much with BG80s or BG85s. I use the awl very sparingly (as little as possible). I usually take a careful and slow approach to making sure I do things correctly, so I don't usually rush any job I do. (For myself or friends)

    Onto the problem at hand: I read on some of the past threads that pre-weaving causes twisting of the string on the crosses, yet I see people commonly pre-weave a few strings ahead to save time and pain when dealing with weaving and threading through holes. My questions are:

    What is the optimal number of strings to pre-weave ahead to avoid heavy twisting on the cross? I'm aware now that pre-weaving ahead too much might cause twisting near the end when stringing a cross.

    Is there anything in particular to avoid or notice to avoid this twisting of the strings? Any particular advice or techniques?

    Any input or advice about this twisting problem (or even about my stringing technique) would be great. Thank you!
     
  2. tenchi

    tenchi Regular Member

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    I always pre-weave my rackets.

    To avoid twisting, I loosen up the loops around the shared grommets - about 1 - 1.5 cm slack for both loops that go to the shared grommet.
    When tightening the string and I get to tightening the first loop at the shared grommet, I tension one of the loops and then check if the other loop can move freely or is being jammed by the tension pull. If it's not free, then I cancel the tension pull, move the loop over to the other side of the other loop and pull again. Most often than not, the other loop is now freely movable.

    Stringing this way takes a little more time but I'm not timing my stringing. And I never have issues with twisting.
    As like most of the stringers here, I take pride in my stringing and have so far not had any complaints of string breaking within a day or two of my stringing - which can be caused by the weakened string due to twisting.
     
  3. hybridragon

    hybridragon Regular Member

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    Okay, I'll try that advice. I usually do leave a loop around the pre-weave as well, but I don't think I check for slack on the strings on the shared grommets while pulling. This twisting issue came up after I started stringing again after not stringing for about 3 months. I've never had a problem with a racket popping prematurely either, so I think I'm fine in that regard. Once again, thanks for the advice.
     
  4. tenchi

    tenchi Regular Member

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    No problems. Keep us updated on how it turns out. :)
     
  5. kevindd992002

    kevindd992002 Regular Member

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    [FONT=&quot]How about on how the strings go in and out of the grommets of the racket, does it matter? Here are the pics of the TPro and fake racket:[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]TPro:[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo154/kevindd992002/?action=view&current=04302011442.jpg[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo154/kevindd992002/?action=view&current=04302011441.jpg[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo154/kevindd992002/?action=view&current=04302011444.jpg[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]My fake racket:[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo154/kevindd992002/?action=view&current=04302011445.jpg[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]Notice the area encircled in red, they are different for both rackets. That is only the difference I can see between the two of them. Does it matter?[/FONT]
     
  6. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    I always weave one ahead, purely to turn every weave into an easy one, and the trick to avoiding twisting is to slide the entire loose piece of string through your fingers to straighten it before putting it back into the racket. For example, if you weave X3, then tension X2, pull the third cross all the way into the racket and unkink the string BEFORE weaving X4.

    Think of straightening a hose pipe before you use it.
     
  7. kevindd992002

    kevindd992002 Regular Member

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    Sorry, I don't understand stringing. I just want to know which of the rackets I've posted above has the correct pattern in the sides?
     
  8. hybridragon

    hybridragon Regular Member

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    Thanks Mark. I've been doing that more so lately near the top on the holes that share mains and cross strings. I still weave as far as I can on the mid-cross holes (where there are only cross holes). It seems the problem is more prominent on my Dunlop Aerogel 2000s than the Yonex Cab 30s that I have.

    As for Kevin, you might want to take slightly clearer pictures. I can't tell what you want to compare sinced its blurred.
     
  9. kevindd992002

    kevindd992002 Regular Member

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    Actually, I can see clearly what I'm trying to point out in the pictures. Look at the white strings at the sides of the racket, I encircled one picture to indicate what I mean.
     

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