Custom-Made Stringing Machine Parts

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by Pete LSD, Dec 24, 2009.

  1. maa2003

    maa2003 Regular Member

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    hi michal, please e-mail me the price of this version coz may order another round ....

    also, do you consider to enlarge the gap due to additional clear-tube which have significant thickness ?
    I have difficulties to put the thicker frame into the side-support.

     
  2. extremenanopowe

    extremenanopowe Regular Member

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    Not sure why the side support is needed. IMO, if your top and bottom grips properly, you should not have worries with out of shaped rackets even with high tension. Your stringing techniques need a little change perhaps? ;)
     
  3. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    A suggested mod for users of the Michal supports

    Watching my own stringing video highlighted a quirk of the Michal supports that I'd missed completely up to now: when the first mains are pulled, the Y-joint area flexes downward due to the height of the supports. Thus, I have added a block, as shown below, to shore it up. Nothing special - just a scrap piece of PVC molding ground down to a precise thickness - but it works.

    Michal users - keep an eye on the bottom of your rackets during the initial stringing stages to see if this affects you as well;).
     

    Attached Files:

  4. General Foo

    General Foo Regular Member

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    Hi Mark,

    how did you slim down the head and throat supports on your pros pros to make room for the load spreaders?
     
  5. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Bench grinder:D.
     
  6. AZbadman

    AZbadman Regular Member

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    Just take the plastic padding off
     
  7. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Sometimes the 12/6 supports are too thick even without the yellow pads - it's especially bad with NS9000-type patterns because of the very high top cross.
     
  8. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    Mark: You can use the head -shring tubing (tested by me) or PVC tubing.
    dscf6259a.jpg
     
  9. maa2003

    maa2003 Regular Member

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    how many layer Michal ?
     
  10. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    Two or three layers will be enough.
     
  11. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    Mine came in today. Cant wait to try it out tonight.

    Thanks Michal.
     
  12. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    ckyew, please post a review. The big test is when you string 30+ lbs. If you can do main = cross tension, the the shoulder supports are really good.
     
  13. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    The "square" string job is the yardstick of the machine's support system quality, but I wouldn't recommend trying it with the optional tubing on the Michals until

    a) You can do a racket in 30 mins or less and
    b) The tubing has been through at least 20 jobs.

    The tubing has a lot of "give" when new so the rackets will spread sideways slightly more than usual. I've been adding an extra 0.5-1 lb over the usual 10% until my tubing settles down.
     
  14. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    Mark, that's great info there!
     
  15. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    hi pete,

    I only managed to do only 1 racket so far (didnt have the time yet) and it was at pretty low tensions (22 by 24).

    But because the sideposts came with the PVC tubing placed by Michal, I thought the tubing would have to be pressed completely flat before i would be able to do higher tensions because of the "give" of the tube.
    I kept having the feeling to check for racket head movement whenever I pull cross strings because of the "give" when I strung the racket. But it actually didn't move so which was good.

    I pressed it against rackets with my hands to see how much give it would have and also mounted it up "slightly tighter"(may be my own imagination as I took the effort to make sure the racket head wont move) than usual.

    But overall, it was a pleasure stringing with the new posts, I didnt really find the problems mentioned by Mark regarding the height of the racket compared to the puller but maybe because mine is a drop weight. I'll check it again this time round when I do more stringing in the next few days.
     
  16. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    and as i currently do not have any rackets waiting for high tension stringing (the ones waiting are all low tension ones which I'm not complaining), i may have to wait a while before i can answer that question.

    But I'll post something after I spend more time with it.
     
  17. ckyew

    ckyew Regular Member

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    I've went and reread a lot of the posts earlier on and I understood about the height issue Mark and some of the guys were talking about. Its about the movement of the sideposts popping backwards onto the support holes of the sidearm. I realised this issue when I put them in without the wingnut locking the first screw (longer screw) provided by Michal. But when the wingnut was tightened to the required position, the sideposts didnt move any further.

    I'll post some photos soon. After all, a picture says a thousand words.
     
  18. Mark A

    Mark A Regular Member

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    Tightening the nuts is absolutely vital - the supports have a large forward projection, so it's easy for a twisting racket to create a moment and turn them off line. If you're not stringing tennis or squash, it'd be worth Loctiting the nuts in place (and Gorilla Gluing the bases to the arms while you're at it).
     
  19. Michal

    Michal Regular Member

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    Mark. Good solution is to use a self locking nuts, M8 type.
    985.jpg
     
  20. maa2003

    maa2003 Regular Member

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    I have no problem with Michal's, except that I need to add 2 washer-ring to get 360 deg rotation with Wise2086 on my AEF machine while no need such washer on Eagnas machine.
    Since I need 2 ring-washer, so need a longer one for tightening the wing-nut.
     

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