I have pre-strung my racket but I am wonndering where should the starting knot be. 1 is at the bottom of the frame B8 but it sit on both a main and cross. Will this "clamp" the untensioned strings against the grommet? The other one at A5, sharing the grommet with another main. Also, how will stringing the cross at higher tension affect the stability since mains and crosses belong to one single string? i.e. tension is same throughout.
Anyway I gave my first go at stringing and it turned out alright apart from the fact that now the racket looks a little rounder. I guess the cross was not strung at high enough tension. Is this ok? Or should I restring it again? Also, I noticed that the strings adjacent to the knots were slightly loose despite the fact that I clamped the string before tying the knot. Again, is this normal? Does anyone have experience in calibrating Pro's Pro Shuttle Express? Is there anyway I can shift the scale or do I have to remember the calibration each time I string?
Maybe you didn't apply enough pressure when you tighten the shoulder supports. 10% higher than the main tension is sufficient to bring the frame back to shape. What was your cross reference tension? There is one screw that you can adjust. By adjusting this screw, you can change when the tensioner's latch is released and thereby the resulting tension at lock out. Here is a different lock-out machine's user manual. Please read page 12. It does give you an idea of what to do: http://206.210.94.83/assets/manuals/pdf/MG63-5.pdf You can also adjust the distance between the tensioner spring and the tensioner increment screw. The sooner the tensioner increment screw engages the tensioner spring, the higher is the resulting lockout tension.
So, do you reckon I need to restring the racket? I just fear that it will damage the racket. Seeing how knots are impossible to be tied while tensioned, can I assume that tension loss at these knots are inevitable? Or are there ways to minimize the loss?
You don't have to cut the string and restring. If you racket is damaged, it is cracked already. How many mm is the frame shortened? Just add +10% more reference tension on the tie off string and you should be fine. Tie a single half-hitch knot and wrap the remaining string around a sticky wand or something and lightly pull away from the frame and back to the frame sideway, three times. Finish the knot with a pro knot.
I've been playing badminton for awhile and I have strung a couple racquets. Right now I am deciding on whether to buy a stringing machine or not. Could you guys tell me what get you when you pay more money for the machine? I don't have a lot of money to spend, but I don't want a drop weight machine either.
read through the stringing tech forum, you will find good posts from other stringer about the good and bad brand/machine. good luck.
Thanks for all the advice Pete Comparing it (AT900T) with my AT700, the top outer frame of the AT900T is at the top inner frame of AT700. i.e. amount shortened equivalent to the thickness of frame.
That's quite a bit. The rule of thumb is preferrably the same length as an unstrung frame or 1 mm longer.
On 2-piece stringing, is there any other pattern other than centre-side for the mains and top-bottom/bottom-top for the crosses? YULite mentioned 50-50 pattern in his Youtube video but it does not seem be a great pattern. I have read some posts that top-bottom is actually better than bottom-top. On the other hand, there was also a post by stringtechno saying that bottom-top is better. I am confused whether to follow Yonex pattern (bottom-top). For 1-piece, do different patterns result in different feel? Or does it only concern better stress distribution and stringing ease? Some examples are the ATW and Box patterns as mentioned by YULite in his Youtube videos.
