80-hole alternative pattern After a bit of experimentation, I settled on this for a 2PTD: Top There's room for an extra cross at the top (but you need a thin loadpreader and narrow clamps if you want to clamp it). The result is, I think, probably the highest top cross of any pattern. Bottom I hated having to go from B12 to B6 for the mains tie-off, so I started looking for ways to get a closer knot or a closer last main. I couldn't get the latter without having huge loops at the top of the racket, so I was left with tying the mains at B10. Luckily, you can still get a cross through that hole even with a knot in it.
That reminds me, put this extra cross in this time... You haribito guys, do you also do progressive tensions other than +2 on the crosses? I hope I can combine both, I don't see why not but I'll make sure the same tension is used when doing the "round the house" bit.
Interestingly, Victor now recommends a 2PTD for the 80 hole pattern: http://www.victor-international.com/documents/pattern_80.pdf Those big long tie-offs on the mains annoy me, but I suppose it's the lesser of two evils over that preposterous "splitting"...
Interesting. Why the change? I'm happier doing top down now I think and I have decided to try the gosen/haribito semi top down anyway.
Well, I hope you were happy - I suggest my own pattern to my Meteor clients before I do their rackets... and none of them really care which way I do things.
Well I gave him the older pattern, saw your post and thought hmmmmm. Then I picked it up to find he'd done the new one so I'm pleased.
to be honest, i think the addition of the B8 string is pretty useless. doesn't add much in terms of protecting the main string, and just add extra cross for the grievance of stringers. the separation of B11/B12 is more useful.
B# is the number counted up from the bottom/throat/T right? I don't see an extra string, just change to standard 2PTD. Looking forward to the new video when you make it. Hint
Well, you say this... but last Weds a lad at our club called Sam ended up with a shuttle stuck in the bottom of the middle mains after they snapped. I just can't abide an unused grommet, though, and that's why I use it.
Strangely enough, this drawing doesn't represent a real Victor 80 hole racket :\ Bottom cross should actually be in a hole that is between 7th hole and the 8th hole on that picture, unless they changed that for the new production... Also, I've been doing the same thing you're doing for 80 hole patterns since after the first couple times I did it the "real" way. I think it's much better in terms of durability and easier/faster to string. I string crosses bottom up so I can weave the cross in B10 before tying my mains to make sure there is enough room for both strings and the knot.
Besides durability and easier/faster to string, what are other significant values using this new stringing method? A local stringer told me that this new method will somehow enlarge the sweet spot due to the way that string goes at C10-to-C15 & A10-to-A15 area which resembles Z-Speed's Horizontal-A concept. (I was scratching my head when he explained this) He also said this new method will 'pull' the frame inwards at 2 and 10 o'clock area, making the whole frame look narrower at the top. Comments?
That's pretty much it - I came up with the pattern because I hated the fact that the top cross was so low! A racket's sweet spot size depends only on the racket; I don't think you can make it bigger through stringing, but it might be possible to move it up or down the racket very slightly with top-down vs bottom up. (Your stringer might mean that long loops outside the frame are letting the sweet spot flex more, but it's good stringing practice to have as little string outside the frame as possible.) If you use top-down, it probably will to some degree. However, you can't really string a racket and have it come out exactly the same shape as it went in and, IMO, the benefits of top-down outweigh the slight deformation.
^I've taken some length and width measurements of my strung MX80 at each grommet; next time I string it I'll take the measurements of the empty frame so we can see if/how much the top-down narrows the top of the rackets.
Thank you for your further explanation.. I didn't mean to trouble you, but it seems that my MX-JJS string hasn't snap yet. I may compare it the next time when I go for restring. So, I guess I just tag along with you
This pattern isn't bulletproof; less than four weeks ago I broke the top of my middle main on my JJS despite the extra top cross. But then I do us 32 lb/15 kg... I guess anything can happen at that tension.
