There should be no difference at all. But if it was different, it'd be around .1% different. It's just to make the tensions the same overall to protect the shape of your racket.
It could deform the racket head and increase stress on the frame, that way it would be easier to break. Good way to find out is measuring your rackets unstrung first and then check if they are deformed substantially (more than ~1-2mm). If they aren't, there's no higher risk of breakage imop.
Depends on the frame and the machine - normally, it keeps the frame from deforming. Although I once noticed a racket deform a bit with increased cross tension (-2/3mm in width), so I took the string off after a few days to avoid stressing the frame too much (or, god forbid, breaking it). But normally, my rackets keep their shape with increased cross tension. If you're nervous about it, you could perhaps string with same tension on mains&crosses and double-pull the crosses (as the weaving decreases the tension by ~1-2lbs), could be a hassle on a crank machine though...
How is the hit feeling of the same main/cross vs. +2 on the cross? How is the power of the same main/cross vs. +2 on the cross? Does the same main/cross have bigger sweetspot?
Well ideally, they both have the same characteristics - on some machines, you just need to add some tension on the crosses to get a consistent result, on some you don't. If I add too much on the crosses, it feels weird - harder, and less powerful. Probably because the mains do not add much to the 'trampoline' as they add less force when stretched by the same amount as the crosses.
Now days for graphite rackets, same tension is suffice. IMO. Still my string breaks at horizontal part. Those days when you have metal rackets like cab 8, then you may consider having 2lbs extra just to keep the shape.
It depends on the machine you're using - on machines with good 6-point support, no extra tension is needed. If the support is not so great, a bit of extra tension is needed to bring the racket back to it's original shape. Some players just like the feel added tension on the crosses gives them, one example would be Marc Zwiebler. According to Dinkalot he has his Arc7 strung with 35x37lbs, even though the ES5Pro has GREAT support. As a result, the racket is deformed slightly, but if you're sponsored like he is, you probably won't worry.
just got my apacs T200 4u and was going for 27/30lbs with yonex bg85 titanium (according to the stringer bg66 can only last a 1-2 games with such tension, is that right?). is it the right specification for stringing i have always string at 27/27lbs. this is the 1st time i try this type of stringing but the stringer sort of hinting to me there'll be problem with this type of stringing but he'll only tell me what is it when the problem occur. just making me nervous here.
It depends on how clean you hit - the BG66 is really not the most durable string, but if you hit cleanly, it can last a while. I had one on my Z-Slash for 3-4 weeks @27lbs, playing 2 tournaments (XD/MS and XD/MD) and training with it. On my BS09, it held about the same time (27lbs again). Then again, I'm not much of a hard hitter and manage to hit pretty cleanly^^ Anyway, as mentioned before - it depends on the machine. If your stringer uses one that has weak/bad support, he has to add some tension on the crosses to restore the original frame shape (as the mains will shorten it, making it wider). On my machine, I only sometimes add 1lbs when I string at 27+ to make up for friction loss on the cross tension. Depends on the racket and how quickly I work.
Both my stringer have a very strange tension. When I want 22, he make 18 near the frame and increase to 20 and 22 in the middle. They say this way makes the sweet spot larger. They have string for many years and the never string +2 in the cross. Have ask other stringer in Sweden and they never string +2.
It also makes the strings much softer. The tension will eventually even out and it'll be much softer than intended. If you want a larger sweetspot, just pick a lower tension. There is the idea of keeping the tension proportional to the string length, but that is hard to do, takes a lot of time, and will eventually even out. In the end, the most accurate and reproduceable way to string is to keep the same tension for all mains/all crosses. If they string professionally or at least a lot, they should have a machine with good support and dont need to add tension on the crosses.
For me 24/26 is best..... coz at first my N90II strung 28/28. Now strung 24/26 with BG66 ultimax ........
You don't need to, no. A 4000$ machine should have very good 6-point support, so to maintain the racket shape, you should string with even tension. However, there are a lot of stringers who started stringing with 2-point support and crank or dropweight, so they had to add tension on the crosses - and they kept the habit. However, you CAN add tension on the crosses - it gives a different feel. To me, it feels slightly tighter and more controlled. A 26/28 stringjob would feel very similar to a 27/27, with the 26/28 being just a tad softer and more powerful in feeling. I can't say anything objective about power though as I have no way of measuring smash speed (radar guns are expensive and we dont have a 1000fps camera either^^).
Wait a second, the whole point of adding +2 on the crosses is so that the racket don't warp right? But if I understand correctly, you are saying that with a $4000 Yonex machine the racket won't warp with even tension. That means, if I add +2 on the cross the the racket WILL warp correct?
Yes, that's right. However, some like the feel of it - Marc Zwiebler is an example, always asking for 35/37. The racket is gonna be a bit narrow, but as long as you string below 30lbs, most rackets will be able to deal with the strain.
Ok so I think Badmintoncentral should clarify this then since (I assume) most people who come here and read this stickied thread just think that they always got to do the +2 on the cross, not knowing it will actually warp their racket.
Probably not - few do Poor you - stickying threads where no one will read your post Although I can't say I've found it to be true. On my machine, adding anything will distort the frame ever so slightly...although I prefer the feel of 5-10% tighter crosses.
