http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlLAmD5ZGE0 Since the ASE doesn't have fixed clamps, the loop from the calibrator should go over the 12 o'clock support. Then make sure to lock up the turntable by tying it down with a thick cord. Next proceed with calibration as show in the video.
He recommended me a calibrator that isn't similar to that one ;o it's made for suitcases so it's shaped differently and Im quite lost at how to use it
@TimothyHsu: have a look on http://www.yonex.com/badminton/webcatalog2011/#page=31 you must skip the hole (A8) and go to A9...
you need to study this diagram. string by string. you put the left one on the wrong hole. you should follow the NS 7000 / AT-800 pattern
Ohh I was following the "other" one and it said to skip over at b9. Why do I use the at800 one when my racket isn't an at800 or ns7000?
It's because your racket is designed with "extra" holes to avoid having to share quite so many grommets between the mains and crosses. ______ Timothy, you should be commended for your enthusiasm in stringing. One can tell that you are going to be a dedicated stringer and that your technique will improve quickly. But at this point in your stringing career, please take a little more care to 'look before you leap'. It should be a matter of course that you know the pattern of a racket before you mount it. You should practice your knots on scrap string before trying for the first time on a laboriously strung racket. And you should use the cheapest, most despicable racket you have to practice on --- just in case. I have no doubt that you will be great at stringing and at whatever you do for a career... but, with your current 'leap first' learning style, if you turn out to be a heart surgeon then I don't want to be your first patient. Keep plugging away!
there are 3 different stringing pattern for Yonex. only 3. one is the regular (or "other" pattern in the diagram). they are the older rackets or some of the low end rackets. they have 72 grommet holes in total. the difference is that at the top right/left, the strings goes through their own hole. one is the non-shared pattern (76 holes). most new yonex rackets are this way. the difference is that strings goes through their own holes on the top right/left. the last one is only for ARC-Z and Voltric ZF. they have 78 holes, there are one extra pair of non-shared holes. as a stringer, you need to identify which pattern you need to do, and with a little bit of looking at the top, you will be able to do that in seconds.
I don't even look at the number of grommets when I mount a racket, I just start it and figure it out when I get around b9 Luckily, I noticed the extra grommets at the bottom of my MX80 before I mounted it (because it's quite obvious ) and researched it before I started stringing
Thanks guys for all the help! I'm a try and try again guy haha. Maybe it's cuz Im still pretty young and stuff... Do you guys think that this knot is good for badmin? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGyDh4gW8DE&feature=my_liked_videos&list=LL8NsdnE_oAJhibFWe-h4IqA I try to do the wilson pro-knot or something like that and is relatively easy
Common sense need to prevail, if the holes are too close together then skip... works out 99.9% of the time.
you should keep things simple. do the simple knots first. and then try to figure out the basics before you move onto fancier things.
Your side supports at the 10 and 2 o'clock does not look like they are touching the racket... not uncommon when doing the crosses top down... but should always be touching when doing the mains. Ideally, all supports should be touching the racket at all times throughout the stringing process. Your string pattern is looking much better.
Yeh - I can see a gap between the frame and the top-right support in the picture. When you mount the frame, give it an up/down wiggle before you put any string in to make sure there are no gaps. As KingO says, it's OK for the frame to come away from the top supports if going top down, but it kind of negates the advantage of having six-point support if two of the points aren't being utilized!
Is there actually no contact at 10 and 2? Or is it an optical illusion? How is that possible when there is only unopposed force on the frame from the mains? (...unless the supports were manually loosened after the mains were strung.)
Only the 2 is not touching because it was covering the holesso I moved it out a bit. Is that a problem that should not happen?
You shouldn't take the shoulder supports off. They are designed to take the strain off the frame until you balance out the forces with the cross strings. It looks like you could afford to move your top post in a bit so that the 10/2 o'clock supports are a little further down on the frame (ie lower than the last main on the top). That would eliminate the problem of the support blocking your grommet and give you a little more lateral support to the frame during the stringing process.
