Arc Saber 10 offers more than just something similar. The frame of Arc Saber 10 is very stable and strong (touch wood!). The paint work seems excellent too; it don't chip off so easily. This Tuesday evening, I have a minor clash because my new partner cut into my path, snatching my shuttle. I pulled back my Arc Saber but... the clash was still unavoidable... I was pretty surprised. I heard the metal clashing sound, and you can feel that you are having a strong racket (don't test it please! ). The entire racket was intact; no chip off at all. Thanks.
Hi Chua, racquets that can withstand clashes are not necessarily the best racquets. Actually the best racquets using the best materials will not sell, simply because they will shatter from even minor clashes. Racquets are marketing compromises. Racquets that use the raw materials kevlar and hmg can withstand clashes better than others. The trick is to make a kevlar/hmg material racquet with high playability-it is not easy because you have to try out various kevlar/hmg/uhmg/epoxy resin matrix. At best you can make a good kevlar racquet but not a great one.
It may shock you, the fancy paintwork in your racquet is cosmetic and contributes nothing to a racquet's playability. In fact it adds unnecessary weight in the form of a coating of paint instead of more of the raw material matrix. It also forms a non-homogeneous bond with the frame, resulting in a loss of tactile feel. If you can strip all the paint, undercoat and polish off your racquet, down to its "off-the-mold" state, you will get back that tactile feel with every shot.
Hi kris. I am actually being a good guy here. Just want to share my problem and let people who has the same problem aware of the alternative solution. But some people are getting the message differently. Basically if I have more money I will buy a 2U Arch 10, I pretty much confidence that it will be better of for offense. May be next year. BTW now with little bit of experience I am very much satisfied. Before, when I switch from Arch to Ti, I felt my Ti is much better. Now when I switch, I felt my arch is better than Ti-10.
taneepak, for all you know, I might take you up on this Perhaps I will sand off all the paint on my ArcSaber 10 and see how it feels
By the time, if the arcsaber-700 really launch. Then, you guy will complaint head too heavy. Defence very slow. Caused your arm painful. After that, try to do some stupid thing to make it head light back. At the end, hope that Yonex come out ArcNano 8000 with is head light balance.
Hi, I agree with HKChua, I already had a couple of racquet hits with arc10 and I was surprise that it didnt suffer a paint chip at all. It is in contrast with my nano9000 with which I broke two of them already from a minor racquet clash. I truly feel that there was something really wrong with the quality of nano9000 racquets. Arcsaber series is a Yonex coming back to its tradition of quality and durable racquets. My friends keep reminding me how powerful and durable their ti and muscle power series racquets as compared to the newer yonex and carlton racquets. Despite what Taneepaks said my idea of a very good racquet is something that would improve my badminton game without me buying a new one every couple of months.
That's what we called customers' needs/wants. I think that what Y*** wanted also, to fulfill and satisfied their customers' needs/wants. I think if there's no needs/wants we are still using the same name and technology from time to time. Grown up man.
If you want a head heavy ARC10, you can easily take off the original grip and use a tennis overgrip.( use the entire grip, don't cut it short) Someone said that BG66 suits ARC10. After trying that, I agree with it. BG66 provid more solid feel on impact over BG80. I didn't like BG66 on my other rackets at all. But with ARC10, they match each other.
No, this is not how it should look after sanding off all the paint, undercoat, and decals (yes there are many decals). You must remove all the grommets to do it properly. Only when the whole racquet, from frame to shaft, is completely carbon black in colour can you then claim that you have reverted to the "off-the-mold" condition. But then taking off all the paint, etc will lose you about 4g to 5g, reducing your racquet to one U lighter. How then are you going to put this back?
