I have heard some ppl using PVC to tape up their wooden handle before applying their replacement grip. Is this step really necessary? Assuming you are using PU grip, will sweat necessary go thru it and onto the bare wood? The manufacturer has never taken such a measure given that they left it bare in the first place. I wonder why no one apply a think layer of wood lacquer on the handle to make it permanently sweat proof? But in the first place, does sweat really can GO THRU the PU grip?
I suppose it depends on what type of grip you use to how much sweat will reach the handle. I guess that a towelling grip would pass more sweat onto the handle than a thick PU grip. But I've never heard of people doing anything like this before. Out of all the racquets I have owned only one handle snapped and that was a break within the cap, so that couldn't have been sweat damage.
There are many places in the world where people move from zero or sub-zero degrees conditions outside, to warm conditions inside. Or from extremely hot conditions outside to much cooler temperatures inside. If you lacquer or apply any varnish/resin on the wooden handle, you also constrain it to some extent from normal expansion/contraction that might happen due to appreciable changes in temperature. Then that may result in cracks appearing. That in turn, will weaken the integrity of the handle. And when you tighten your grip whle smashing, you may find one fine day that the handle just splinters or breaks under the pressure you have applied. If the main grip is fastened correctly, I don't think you will need to worry about sweat reaching the wood... my 2c...
I don't know if it really damages the wood. But I've seen soaked handle before. A severely worn-down karakal PU grip in the summer, the wood underneath was soaked. But then Karakal doesn't put any lacquer on their handles. If wrap scotch-tape very neatly on the handle your problem is eliminated. (just a hint, if you wrap your grip like a right-hander, then wrap the scotch like a lefty, that way the tape doesn't come off when you remove your grip)
Over in my country here in Singapore. We do not have the 4 seasons. It like 25 to 32 degrees Celsius all year round so perhaps the varnish method may work for us. Many mentioned about using electrical PVC tape around the wood first but I think it will leave sticky stuff onto the wood.
The reason the manufacturers do not use any PVC, varnish or tape is to allow the wood to "breathe" normally. Any kind of constriction can create chances for cracks sooner or later. Also, there is a chance you will actually trap the humidity (which you do have in Singapore) on the inside via the end-cap, and this can slowly create growth of debilitating fungus. Of course, this would take quite a long time to happen. But it is always a possibility. Do you know of any others in the clubs you play at, who have tried varnish/resin?
Nope. I heard them using PVC tape or food cling wrap to sweat proof it. But as you have mentioned, making the wood be unbreathable would encourage fungus growth. Then I suppose using PVC tape would have similar consequence. Varnish is just my idea as I remember doing so for my wooden doors at home some time back.
You use wood like teak, rosewood and oak for furniture and sometimes even doors in tropical countries. These are really hard and very dense types of wood. And the varnishing process involves many coats. Often, the varnish itself is preceded by oil treatment. This is called the seasoning process. That wood is meant to last and be used for up to 200 years, often even more. I have been to places where the wood beams are in use for over 400 years. But that is not the wood used in badminton racquets.
Maybe this solution could work for you... http://www.badmintoncentral.com/for...e-via-Heat-Shrink-Sleeve-method-....-DIY-Pics You could just put an overgrip over it, no need for a replacement grip...
Not sure if it's the same due to climates, but here we use hockey tape around the handle before applying towel grip on top and we've never had any problems over a long period of time.
I'm trying to decide what to put over my wooden handle before applying Super Grap straight to wood. Should I use Electrical tape (similar to Nitto but wider), masking tape, cellotape? I have no idea lol.
don't forget that whatever you put on there will add additional few grams thus making the racket slightly heavier overall and slightly head lighter i would say don't bother... it would be like putting on anti rust spray on the underside of modern cars not needed and potentially worsening the situation as it was not intended by the manufacturer
Masking tape is still a heck of a lot lighter than the original grip though. Has anyone every tried Super Grap over bare wood? How harsh is it? I'm thinking of going bare wood + masking tape (so sticky residue stays off overgrip) + Super Grap. But worried it might be too harsh despite offering more feedback and control.
^^ That'd be pretty harsh. I did that once as you described... I couldn't feel my fingers and hand at the end of the game! Not to mention shoulder pain because the bp shifted by 10mm to 310mm!
I have played with a super grap placed on bare wood before. I had no problems with it being too harsh, it was a little too thin however and my hand kept slipping when playing shots, so I changed to a thicker grip. I put electrical tape on the wood of some rackets and then grip over that. Mainly because the towel grips I used seemed to enjoy tearing splinters off of the wooden grip. However since switching rackets to the Arcsaber 8dx and using the stock grip (until it breaks) I haven't had to do anything.
I just use scotch tape on wood + supergrab on G5 handle , it's just my preference for easy application n removal of grip , initially I was having blisters as it was a little harsh , but this taught me to relax my grip when I'm not hitting the shuttle , I'm able to use my fingers more efficiently (which I always forget) , n im more comfortable to net with this setup than supergrab over original replacement grip.
masking tape is pretty ok. I'd stay away from stuff like duct tape because it tends to leave residual sticky patches on the handle when you try to remove it; and also that the other side is often too "slippery" for my liking. Not enough traction for the supergrap.
Thanks for the link cobalt .... In case there are any worries about 'accidentally' enlarging the grip size, the heat Shrink Sleeve does come in 'thinner' sleeves.
