instruction for the professional pattern: first, measure the required string length and weave mains: 1. measure the length of the short side (red on diagram) to be 6 racket length 2. weave mains from center out. tension L/R halves alternately. 22 main x 21 cross rackets (Left diagram) 1. (short end) leaving the last main string unweaved, use a starting clamp to clamp the short end at the outter side of the frame. 2. (long end) leaving the last main string unweaved, go down one hole from the 2nd last main and start weaving the cross downwards. 3. (long end) when down to the 4th last cross hole, skip over it and leave the 4th row unoccupied. weave until red circle (2) on the diagram. 4. (short end) finish off the last main string. and then weave it into the 4th last cross string. 5. (short end) finish off the last main on the other end. and then weave it into the 5 cross strings at the top of the racket. tie knot. 6. (long end) finish off the bottom cross. tie knot. 22 main x 22 cross rackets (Right diagram) 1. (short end) leaving the last main string unweaved, use a starting clamp to clamp the short end at the outter side of the frame. 2. (long end) leaving the last main string unweaved, go down one hole from the 2nd last main and start weaving the cross downwards. 3. (long end) weave downwards until the 3rd cross. 4. (short end) weave the last main. (red circle (2) ) 5. (long end) from the bottom 3rd cross, weave last main upwards. go up one hole and finish off weaving the top 4 crosses. tie knot. 6. (short end) from red circle (2), go down 2 holes and then finish weaving the bottom 2 crosses. tie knot.
the 22x22 professional pattern is actually quite interesting! the diagram is not very clear what the sequence is but it actually is weaving the middle portion of the crosses going top down first, and then finishes off the top 4 and bottom 2 cross last. very interesting. now i just need to find a racket to try this out.... aiyah. need more rackets.
thanks kwun for the translation, so we are non-chinese speaking can read and practice it now .... I've tried the Professional 22x21 (Left diagram) pattern, but end up with 22x22 coz my friend asked me to add one one at the bottom. Now going to try the Professional 22x22 (right diagram) pattern since I hv plenty of rackets to be strung ....
the million dollar questions are.... why? why? why? why is the 72/76 holes different? why 76 holes is 16+6 where as 72 holes is 14+7 on the crosses? why can't we use the same pattern for the 21 cross and 22 cross, and just add one more cross string at the top? why is the top down "professional", and the bottom up "basic"? why are there 4 of them and i have to experiment 4 times and i don't have enough rackets to compare! why? why? why?
I have took a look the old Haribito file in my print-out, and all the same, looks like it was 72 only with 22x21 and 22x22 pattern. Maybe now Gosen has found that top-down is more professional looks ... hehez
found it here : link : http://www.badmintoncentral.com/for...-American-Stringing-Method?highlight=haribito
These patterns are decidedly odd - they aren't even attempts to mimic 1PTD, so I can't imagine what can be gained from them over the usual bottom-up version. Bottom-left in #16 is just crazy! The bottom-right one in #16 is what I would use for a 1PBU if I were still to use that method - adding some crosses before tying off is a very good idea, as simply tying off from a main to a main would lead to asymmetrical stresses in the L/R direction. The knot would reduce the effective tension on one side, but not the other; the crosses add some friction to counteract this. The loop from the main to cross is rather long, though - it could go in earlier than that.
a few more thoughts. - it seems that Haribito considers TD to be "pro". while BU is "basic". or maybe just because the pattern needed to achieve TD is more complicated that makes it more pro. but obviously, Haribito says TD is better, otherwise why even go through all the hoops to make it possible. - Haribito really like one piece stringing. none of their pattern are 2 piece. - Haribito says center out is better. all pattern emphasize getting the center 10-15 cross strings in first. and then do the boundary strings. or at least, that's the best they can do to string the center first. unless if they do 2 piece then they can really have a proper center out pattern. - Haribito pro pattern don't weave the 11th main on the 2 sides until the center crosses are weaved and tensioned. again, emphasizing the center strings first.
more thoughts on stringing center out. with modern 6 point support machines, it kinda make sense to emphasize center out. after all, center out is more symmetric. side-to-side by definition puts tension in one end of the frame before the other. however, it is arguable whether center out for cross is neccessary, simply because the racket is not symmetrical in that direction anyway. also, with 6 point machine, putting tension on the center strings first bulges the racket outwards towards the top/bottom, it will help maintain racket shape. it is not uncommon to see the top frame getting squeezed more on a bottom up pattern.
Attn.: Mr. Kwun & Mr. maa2003 Which one you are prefere to go for 1. http://www.badmintoncentral.com/for...-American-Stringing-Method?highlight=haribito OR 2. This new Profession haribito pattern OR 3. Basic pattern
To me #1 and #3 are just the same, no different. I used to use the #1 until I saw your picture for the Professional one. I never tried to play with the Professional one, but a friend of mine told me it is very good. Looks like I will be using the Professional (22x21) eventhough I will string 22x22 or 22x23 (not refer to tension lbs). how about you ?
I strung one for my friend with #1 pattern for his racket. His feedback was very good. I have ordered FLEET Woven 1000, after it reaches me, I will string it with #2. Let us see Mr. Kwun's feedback about his test of professional pattern.
I gave my answer already in my earlier post, for the PROFESSIONAL, the different between LEFT & RIGHT is NOT determined by 22X21, 22X22.....that is what I said it was misleading, both LEFT & RIGHT start the cross from L11, when you trace down one by one #13 cross of the LEFT comes out from Bottom Right 12 whereas the RIGHT #13 cross comes out from Bottom Right 13, in other words the RIGHT couldn't go back in the same pattern as the LEFT. Go experience yourself and come back for further discussion. Holding the pattern on a piece of paper doesn't get you anywhere.
Hi everybody Is it possible or can we make cross tension 2lbs higher than main tension in professional haribito? If, so, will it play better?
The Haribito Professional Pattern is basically All Around Stringing Pattern. After stringing the mains, it ensures the middle crosses (effecting hitting area) are strung from top to bottom. The outer mains and reaming top/bottom crosses are finished in a systematic way to ensure that they can be tied off at proper places. Check out tennis Around the Word Stringing Patterns: UKRSA Pattern: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIA2AKB3AJw Universal Pattern: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-LEiTpNrnk
the Professional 22 x 21 is yes, almost similar to All around the world, but the right one (22x22) is different. I recognized many of old stringers has used similar to this Professional 22x21 pattern before, but they only use 1 or 2 top cross then tie-knot.
I’ve tried Haribito Professional 22 x 22 Pattern. I’m pretty sure it is similar to UKRSA Pattern: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIA2AKB3AJw . Short side tied off at the bottom and long side tied off at the top. The only difference is for badminton, there are more crosses to finish off at the top.
