tension loss

Discussion in 'Badminton Stringing Techniques & Tools' started by pompey, Aug 20, 2011.

  1. Fidget

    Fidget Regular Member

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    A great chef knows how to flavour his dishes with a pinch of this or a dash of that. He doesn't use a chemist's analytical balance.
    Similarly, manually pre-stretching may not be nanodyne perfect, yet it is a "flair" which adds value for the customer and need not be made overly complicated for the sake of an imperceptible difference in precision.

    However, always willing to be corrected or convinced by your venerable intellect.:eek:
     
  2. Pete LSD

    Pete LSD Regular Member

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    GrandMaster Fidget,

    Unfortunately, I am not an artistic person. :eek:

     
  3. bsmith

    bsmith Regular Member

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    No matter what measures we take, the string is always "fatiguing" (hey, you would too if you were being pulled on 24/7 at 28 lbs. :D). So like Kwun says it's just a fact of life that string tension drops. This has always made me think that about going with 3-4 lbs. over my desired tension so that after the significant tension drop occurs, the string will stabilize at my desired tension for an extended length of time.

    Of course, such an approach would mean the racket is not optimally playable for a number of days and a number of sessions where it would be used just for warming up and hitting around. With enough backup rackets, I suppose this approach could be successfully used without too much bother.

    Has anybody tried this and do you think it is worth doing?
     
  4. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Please make sure you polish it while pre-stretching your string...

    FYI, now a day, when I calibrate a crank machine, I ask the user, do you want to have the lock out 1 lb over the tension. From my experience, once the crank lock out, it drop 1 lb in the next 5~7 sec for badminton string. then it level out after that. So, by going over by 1 lb that equate to about 5% pre-stretch on a electric machine. Still, pre-streching with a constant pull machine is the best overall.
     
  5. mannie

    mannie Regular Member

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    Hi

    I've been stringing for two years now. I started to do my own racquets because i wanted consistent results and medium to high tension.

    Firstly , flying clamps moved back because;
    They clamp on the tension of the previously strung string, when they move back they actually reduce the tension of the previuosly tensioned string. I use a fixed clamp to stop the flying clamp from moving back (my fixed clamp damages the string so i only use it to rest my flying clamp against it)

    Secondly, i wouldn't advise to rest any clamp against the frame. This is a personal thing, i know some people use starting clamps and these can rest against the frame, but i prefer to use my flying clamps to start. I believe the clamps resting against the frame can cause a stress point and this is where the frame will break in a clash, especially if you string to high tension.

    My stringing time is about 1.75-2 hours. I mainly string for myself (but do some for my team), and I concentrate on quality rather than speed. I string to 27 lbs (my Ti-10s) always with BG65ti. I found BG65Ti better for low tension loss, whilst maintaining feel and touch. I hate nanogy 95, feels too wooden.

    I had to modify my clamps as they damaged the string, maybe yours are too?

    I forgot to mention i use a drop weight machine, i leave the drop weight on for about ten seconds, you can see the string stretching...
     
    #25 mannie, Sep 4, 2011
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2011
  6. TingAhYee

    TingAhYee Regular Member

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    I also have a problem with tension loss on Eagnas Combo 900LE. It is so inconsistent that i can play music like a guitar.

    It is kinda difficult to gauge the optimal tightness of the fix swivel clamps. I also have a problem where if i were to tune it optimally (full closure of the clamp lever with light resistance), it seems to draw back a little after releasing the crank. If a little tighter it will break the string. I think the problem is with the constant string breakage is with the clamps.

    Anyone with prior experience who can advise me? Thanks!
     
  7. bsmith

    bsmith Regular Member

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    Get a set of the Watdon WA3342 clamps as seen here http://www.watdon.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh0...ine_Spares_and_Clamps_13.html#aWA3342#aWA3342

    They are called dual clamps because they work for both badminton and tennis. And even though they are dual capable, they work better than any badminton specific clamps you can find to fit your machine. They work great on my Eagnas Combo 810.
     
  8. silentheart

    silentheart Regular Member

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    Let's get serious, it works great on your nipples too.

    1) the price is good and high quality.
    2) bsmith is right, it works better than most of Eagnas clamps.

    No, it is call dual clamp because dual pivoting to give even clamp force anywhere between the teeth. Not because it actually works on both badminton and tennis. If that is the case, it would call tri or quad clamp because it works on racquet ball and squash too.
     
  9. bsmith

    bsmith Regular Member

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    Oh, I get it now. Instead of a single hinge point where one jaw moves towards the stationery other jaw as with conventional fixed clamps, both of the clamp jaws on the watdon clamp can move on their own hinge points (dual movement) and thus the clamping force is more evenly applied to the string.

    Watdon sure doesn't explain that on their web page about those clamps http://www.watdon.co.uk/wd-strings/acatalog/Catalogue_Machine_Spares_and_Clamps_13.html

    Its a very good feature and they would sell even more of them if they explained the benefits better. Thanks for clearing this up for me, Silentheart.
     

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