Go here... http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...-parts-starting-clamps/619625_1194384239.html 12.2mm and identical to the spinfire V50 clamps at around US$95 for a pair of them
Including shipping it works out as $111.93, not much cheaper, remember I am being charged in Australian Dollars not US Dollars the conversion rate is very different, I would only save roughly 10 USD buying it from aliexpress, also it could incur another VAT charge of £10 + whatever tax is so actually works out more expensive in the end!
From Aliexpress, 2x clamps for the US$110.58. From TennisWarehouse they are AU$115 "each", thus works out to around US$85 each or US$160 for the pair......not sure about other taxes you might incur but would assume they're the same for wherever you buy from..? Lucky we don't get that here in Oz..
Sorry, think I mentioned before but not sure but tenniswarehouse is taking the Australian Tax off this item as it'll be getting shipped to UK making it US$125 Total price of ones from aliexpress are $111.93 delivery to UK Difference of US $13 doesn't matter much to me As like I said, whenever we import items of over a certain value they may get checked for VAT, if they do need to be taxed the delivery courier pays the fee first and charge you an extra US$15 on top of the VAT. So to be honest works out at the same price as Tenniswarehouse have already capped my shipping price, the Automatic Base Clamps + These added together works out to be pretty equal to Aliexpress, and I get the guarantee and the good customer service that is provided by tenniswarehouse!
Yeah, true, if all things being equal price-wise.... go with TennisWarehouse as Wes provides pretty good service................
Yea, price is pretty much equal, and if there's any problems might be easier contacting Wes, well just my thinking anyway as never used alibaba or aliexpress before! They don't seem as customer friendly as amazon or ebay! Or maybe it's just the website haha
I bought the same base's and the V50 clamps earlier this year for my Pro's Pro machine. Fantastic service from Wes and his team, and the clamps are well worth the money. But I did get caught for the import duty!
Would anyone be able to advise on what kind of sealant to purchase for the screws? Guessing super glue may not be a good idea? I remember speaking to Wes about placing my brake block but he felt they would be too different? Will try tomorrow when I receive them!
I use Loctite 270 threadlocker - once that stuff goes off, undoing the bolts again is a proper workout. I'd try them with your own blocks first.
Will look into getting that, does that one set more solid than others? Will try own blocks first! Thanks for the help, thought I avoided import duty but when it got to Edinburgh, said no delivery upon receipt of payment, only got charged £16 so not as bad as I thought
The only thing that should need the strong Loctite is the brake block-to-cone bolts, as I think the adjuster grub screw in the brake pad has a nylock washer on it (a cracking mod, IMO - no need for constant adjustment). There are low- and medium-strength Loctites for easier take-downs in the future, but you'll never normally have to take the brake blocks off the bottom, so you might as well bang the strongest stuff in. (Having said all this, you may notice your stem tubes wobbling in their threads after a while - I did, it's the nature of the beast with drop-unlocking; I found that two-part epoxy is best for sealing those in - just make sure you don't get any on the unlocking switch at the bottom of the tube!)
So the screws you're talking about to seal in with loctite are the ones in the picture that i think StealthKing put up? And you mean the inner tubing portion where the V50 drops into gets loose after a while? Sorry for all the questions haha
Henrychenn, yes those are the two screws/bolts.... but note, you don't have to lock them in place, simply need something to hold them in place firmly but not permanently. I would suggest a semi-permanent, non pliable sealant ( I use one from Permatex). You could also use silicone sealant in the threads so that the bolt is held in place but you are able to unscrew it at a future date if you want to clean the guide rails etc... In terms of setup, I would suggest unscrewing bolt, put some of the sealant into the thread of the cone part of the brake assembly and screw the bolt back in place. Then set the base clamps to locked position and tighten the bolts until the base clamps are held very firmly. Leave until the sealant sets and then ensure it unlocks easily by pressing the top release button. If it does not unlock easily, make minor anti-clockwise adjustment on the inner adjustment grub screw..... that should pretty much be it. I personally avoid using anything stronger to hold the bolts in place as you only need it to hold in place once set but also need to be able to remove them for maintenance purposes of your stringing machine. Clearly without anything there to hold it, during sliding of the clamp on the guides, they rattle loose and you end up having to make tightening adjustments all the time....
Received them today and sadly my rails are slightly too thin so the brake block isn't rising far enough, can't use my old brake blocks as they are only a one screw thing, not sure what to do now...
Can you not use your old cones in the new bases? If not, you have two options: a) put two new holes in your old brake blocks, b) machine the new brake blocks down to the same thickness as your old ones. I'd go with a) - it's a good deal easier to rent/borrow a pillar drill than an endmill and you could still use them with your old bases if the new ones don't work out. Just meaure/set up very carefully if you're going to do it. (I feel a bit daft for not remembering that straight rails sometimes have only one bolt in the brake block, actually.)
I didn't even think to check! I can fit them on, but using the single brake block, it doesn't seem very fluid, and the bolt screw has to be in just the right place to give me 360 degree rotation and locking to the correct level to stop any movement, The good thing is i'm a dental student so took it into our lab and they are having a look at it, they will machine them down to the same height as my current ones! So after that they should be solid! To my surprise mine are actually purple!
The number of times I've needed an endmill... If you're saying the cones don't "sit" right in the bases, that's not unexpected. I wouldn't go mad on the brake blocks, though - see if you can have them done bit by bit and check on the way down; if you take too much off in one pass and you go too far, there's no putting it back on.
Do you have your own endmill? Or was it borrowed last time? I think the cones do sit alright? But in my old one the brake block wasn't a bolt screw, it's a screw that's joined onto the actual tightening portion and a washer/bolt holds it in place so you can't open it too much, think this is why it loosens off when I do 360 degree rotation using the old blocks, And Yes going to try get them taken down 1mm first on one of them for me to try, once this has been completed I will test it and try again if it's still loose, but could see when tightening using the 2 bolt screw block that there was definitely at least 1mm needed taken away!
